Jkson 6/1 rebuild

[dieselgman]

Our valve stems are 11mm (0.43"), and the guides are sized properly to fit them very well. I think a full 7/16 valve stem would be way too tight without first running a reamer through the guide.

dieselgman

[38ac]

Our valve stems are 11mm (0.43"), and the guides are sized properly to fit them very well. I think a full 7/16 valve stem would be way too tight without first running a reamer through the guide.

dieselgman

Could that be due to the order person properly specifying his parts?? 

 Yes the 7/16 stem valves would be too tight in a 11MM guide, even if the clearance was built into the guide and not the valve diameter, which is another topic in it self,,,

[Gippslander]

Mike,
Some guys here have had to shim the sides to make up the difference.
Gary

Thanks Gary . The shims might be Ok but I prefer to custom make a gib key . I have a small Mill/drill in my workshop

Mike

[Gippslander]

This is my problem .

I have made the casting from car body filler and it worked out OK . I am planning on using the casting in a tilting vice to set up the angles correctly, then I will use my new gib blank in the vice  and machine it in the mill.

[listard-jp2]

Easiest/best solution is to knurl the guide and ream for proper fit even if you never use the tooling again. Both the knurls and reamers are on our Ebay all the time for cheap.

Many thanks for your advice, I will look into buying one of these valve guide kurling tools as a stop gap option.

Apparently the heads you have sourced are something off-spec... where did they originate? What supplier? It may be best to go back to that same supplier and complain about the poor fit and off-spec dimensions/designs. They may have the proper replacement parts for their stuff as well. We hope!

These cylinder heads are of Indian origin, and the brand was IBC. I had thought about the complaining option, but as these items were bought some time ago the window of opportunity has now passed.

I am tempted to try the guide knurling route initially , and then at a later date making some custom valve guides. The cylinder heads were very cheap to buy, and in other respects the casting and machining quality looks quite good.

[dieselgman]

It also crossed my mind that you could easily solve the valve-guide problem by using original valves with 7/16" diameter stems. This assumes that the problem is not so excessive as to be a poor fit on the larger valve stems as well.

Knurling is a common method used across the industry, but is not considered the first choice in terms of retaining the maximum life expectancy of the part involved. I personally like the bronze guide liners as applied to automotive engines but have not had the chance to try using them in an old Lister before.

dieselgman

[Gippslander]

Latest problem is, the floor of the  keyways  are not flat, they have a slight radius or dome shape  . I have made a scraper from an old file, I will scrape the keyways flat with the file .

Spotted this                          http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/tomerong/heavy-farming-agriculture-equipment/diesel-generator-3kw-single-phase-lister-type-engine-/1075615435

[dieselgman]

Back to valve guides... It seems many (if not all) of the Indian clone heads have omitted the threaded exhaust guide in favor of a pressed-in guide similar to the inlet. Here is what we stock in that variation of the valve guides.

Exhaust on left, Inlet on right. Note that these do come with proper counterbore to shield the exhaust valve stem. They are properly fitted for 11mm (or 0.43") valve stems. Outside body diameter is slightly larger than OEM guides.



valve stem diameter 0.43"
exhaust guide body o.d. 0.75"
exhaust guide overall length 3.45"
exhaust guide machined interface length with head 1.90"
exhaust guide stem counterbore depth 0.50"

inlet guide body o.d. 0.75"
inlet guide overall length 3.11"
inlet guide machined interface length 1.70"

These guides fit the 11mm valve stems perfectly. Will these fix your problem?

dieselgman

[Gippslander]

Has anyone used low strength loctite on the gib keys ?


PS  Did some searching and it appears that loctite 660 is what I need .

The positive thing is, with the loctite ,the flywheels will stay firmly in place with little chance of moving .

The negative side is , the flywheels will be very difficult to remove , probably heat will be needed to loosen the loctite .

I have made a new gibe key on the mill, it is longer than the original key and it seems to fit very well .  I need to buy some more square steel stock , I only had enough  for one key .   Mike

I used my little 3 axis tilting vice , the bondo casting is sitting in the vice , this is how I set up the correct angles to mill the blank

So far, I have fixed many problems with this engine. If I had known it was going to be this much work, I probably would not have bought this Indian made engine.

[32 coupe]

When you get it running it will have been worth it to hear that music !

Gary

[Gippslander]

Hi

I am still working on the second gib key. The gib keys have turned out to be a real headache for me . 

If I was to start over again, I would have a professional workshop re-machine the keyways in the crankshaft and the flywheels . At least then I would have a straight and level keyway to begin with .

Mike

[38ac]

Mike,
Your keyway machining problems are pretty typical. I didn't chime in earlier  because you had a very good plan of attack. Previous experience is the keyways are actually pretty close to the correct width and the key itself is the problem being too narrow. One time I had to make a key otherwise keys sourced as parts were wide enough to be properly fitted. When I fit one I first correct the bottom angle first generally using a file. Then fit the top using a spotting agent and file.  All time consuming and likely why the indians "fit" the keys with a very large sledge hammer.

[Gippslander]

I have started on the balancing .  

I found a few old chassis stands to use , and these are working out OK .

As you can see, there is a slight mis - balance of this wheel, I marked the TDC points on the rim , following 38ac's method

I will buy some fishing sinkers and melt them down to make some weights .

I used a digital scale I found in a charity shop , the scale says I need to add 140 grams into one of the drilled holes the factory drilled into the counterweight

I can see some daylight at the end of the tunnel    Soon, I will fire up this antique and make some power 

[Gippslander]

Hi

Well I have both wheels lined up with the TDC marks on the wheel rims . I had to add some weight on one wheel ( by filling two of the factory drilled  holes with lead ) and remove weight on the other wheel ( by drilling an extra hole )

I have also done the bucket of weights balance test . One wheel needs 963 grams and the other needs 1153 grams , to get the counterweights even or vertical .

My question is: Where do I add weight to the lighter of the counterweights without upsetting the first check eg the lining up of the rim mark ?

[38ac]

Once you have the offset weight in the correct place (your marks are vertical when on the stands) any weight added or subtracted to correct the total offset weight must be done in-line with the marks.

In other words if you drill holes in the light side to add to the offset weight they would be spread out equally either side of the light side mark. If you add strips of lead they would be added  to the heavy side again equally either side of the heavy side mark.