Water in jection decarboning

[Mr X]

I agree with your comments and will try other things but rite now the Roid is running with no knock and no need to inject. You need to read my comments on hypodermic needles, the one I used was too big and so just pissed out you'd put through a liter a min. The slit I have caused by cutting my pipe with snips really restricts the flow. And as I said what really threw me off was the air cleaner adding restriction causing the intake vacume to increase and pull more water out of the injector then was eye balled before the air cleaner was put on. So either run your water with no air cleaner in place. Or by placing 1 finger across the intake manifold creates the same increase in vacume as the air cleaner thus drawing harder on your h2o injector. I'll let u know in about 75 hr when she starts knocking again and I have to run the injector. I'm also liken the idea of a preheat coil around the exaust before injecting, we,ll see

X

[Mr X]

Since this fall I've had nothing but mishaps. Dumped the oil 4 times. Two times due to oil line breakage, 2 times because of toilet paper filter turning to mush. So I'm quite happy to let it run undeserbed for now. I can hear when it starts to carbon up you get a slight knock witch grows louder as it builds up. That is when I'll put the injection back to use. I tried with methealhyydrate before but might try again that might help the water to burst into steam when it is semie combustible.
     Another thought, I just realized I opened up my slit a bit thinking I wasent getting enough water, that and as I said the air cleaner increases the vacume affect on the injector causing it to suck faster the previously thought. I'll have to play with it some more.

X

[Mr X]

5410 hr starting to get telltale knock, I played with injection this time with the injector pipe I made a reverse u shape so tube sits on lip of intake manifold and grips it. I Run it with the air filter off. I also cut the injector pipe with a fresh cut with tin snips almost closing the slit hole, now when it starts to inject I found it used 200 ml per hr. I also raised my bottel up higher so I get a syphon. I'm no longer using the water jug as the bottle is easier to place thus placing it higher so I can get more then 50 ml out before water flow quits. Using such small amounts of injected water seems not as effective as larger amounts and I'm finding I have to inject every few days to keep it clean, and with any luck the oil won't get contaminated with water.
5479 hr 1464 hr since last tear down and decarbon. I'd say that's pretty good without injection judging by the frequancy of decarboning I was at before injection I would have had to tear down at least a dozen times to get this many hr s on her. Mind you I have had my troubles but I'm hoping that's behind me as I learn the subtle nuances of water injection.

X

[BruceM]

What would be a good antifreeze additive for a continuous water injection system? Methanol? 

[38ac]

Yes Methanol is what you use and you also get a (smallish) boost in HP due to the extra fuel your injecting

[George A]

Jut a thought on the water mist injection..........when I was quite ill with a respiratory infection, the doctor recommended a medical misting machine. It's a small, simple box shaped device that sits on the table and is charged with water (perhaps distilled in our case?). I believe it uses a vibratory pump of some sort because it sounds like an aquarium pump when operating. It generates a very fine mist or vapor that is piped along a plastic tube to a mask worn over the patient's nose and mouth. This lasts for at least 45 minutes if need be and then it's just a matter of refilling the water chamber.

It would be a simple matter to place that same hose in a position so as to discharge into the air intake of a diesel.

I just checked on Ebay and a nebulizer goes for about five bucks........all you need after that is a standard aquarium air pump. Stick the end of the hose in the intake and it should easily draw a fine water vapor in.

[BruceM]

I think an ultrasound (piezo) horn is used to vaporize the water in the cold vaporizer designs.  Seems like overkill as they are $39, but it would limit flow and make drowning impossible.

 Mr X's approach of allowing intake manifold vacuum to draw up the water seems more appealing to me. The vacuum controlled feed is very sensitive to vacuum changes; if adjusted for flow with an air cleaner, flow would increase as the filter got dirty over time.  I'm not sure if that would be a significant problem. I keep wishing there was a way to see and adjust the flow, like in an IV drip, but controlled by vacuum instead of gravity pressure...

[Mr X]

Who sais you couldn't use an Iv drip, have your tube to your intake as usual but have the water end going to a T one side is open to atmosphere other to the Iv , the suction created by the intake manifold would want to suck air from the open end and as it dose the drip happens. You would still maybe need a nozzle to temper the flow but it may work. Still keeping it simple and cheep.

X

[BruceM]

Might be worth a try... 

[Mr X]

Or maybe instead of a t have the water injection come in the side of your tube just like it would in your arm poke a needle through the side of the tube. Mine is working good so far as is. yesterday I started injecting at 4 pm and shut it off at. 9 pm. I used 400 ml h2o. I think some time the water delivery is inconsistent and stops or backs off almost compleatley. As you will notice I said before 200 ml/hr .Oh well seems to keep the dreaded knock at bay.

X

[Mr X]

Yesterday when I checked I was 26 hr short of 1000 hr since I last disasemble and decarboned, it is on the verge of carbon build up and I have to inject every day. Without injection I would have had to teardown every 100 hr or so. I took the side cover off about 100 hr ago and checked for signes of water in oil, ther was non.

X

[mike90045]

I guess the spray bottle will be my friend for this season.  I still have the factory oil bath air cleaner (I run in cloudy, rainy conditions, so there really isn't much dust) and have been lifting the cover off, and spraying down the throat.   I've found 2 quick sprays can easily quench the burn, so I spritz and wait a couple cycles and do it again.   15 min to get half a cup through.

I guess I'm hearing carbon glowing and detonating, causing a racket.  I've not seen any lumps come out the pipe, just an accumulation of fluffy dust.  But the spray seems to quiet it for a day or two.

[Mr X]

1050 hr so far and will have to decarbon in the next few days. Injection seems to be less effective but still holding the bad knock at bay. I'd like to tear it apart just to see how ruff my Conrod berrings are pitted. I got some of those copper coated berrings from that fellow that trying to sell the idea of running on gear oil in the crank. Has any one tried these berrings. I have no choose I have no more of the crappy Indian berrings.

X

[dieselgman]

Indian made engine bearings have been worldwide industry supply mainstays for decades... first class quality - Federal Mogul and the likes. So, no issues with Indian made bearing shells. We stock them for the CS. If you have pitting happening on your shells, then you might have an oil contamination issue in your engine causing the surface degradation.

Gear oil is designed for... Gears! I say any lubrication is better than none, but these engines have a very long pedigree designed for much lighter oils than 90wt. TRBs are excellent in gear oil, bushed rod bearings as well as mains - another story altogether.

dieselgman

[George A]

Just thought I'd throw in my newbie two bits worth.......

There is a website out there that recommends 85-140 weight synthetic gear oil in Listeroids, the idea being that it provides superior lubrication. The guy stoutly defends this, saying that he will run no other form of lubrication. I was pretty dubious, but like an idiot I listened. I drained the 30 weight and refilled with the heavier lube then started the engine. No problems, ran great........until the next time I tried to start it........like trying to swing a tennis racket through a barrel of glue! Even my stout stepson was unable to spin it fast enough for starting.

All of this is pretty obvious and I really knew better, but now that I've drained the oil and replaced it with a normal weight oil for diesels, I still can't spin it fast enough for starting (cold weather isn't helping). The plan now is to open the crank case cover and use a rag sprayed with WD40 to literally wipe down as much of the bore as possible, clean off the TRB's and slather "normal" oil back in. Once it's started and the new oil circulates all should be happiness in Lister land.

Moral to the story....trust your experience and instincts. I'll use the drained and still clean oil for my open gear machine tools..........