Author Topic: Penetrating Oil Thread  (Read 23577 times)

mike90045

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Re: Penetrating Oil Thread
« Reply #15 on: February 21, 2016, 05:51:51 PM »
Auto trans fluid is supposed to be pretty good too.  I'd use that before veg oil.

Plain coconut oil won't work.   you would need a hydrogenated oil to have it not get gummy over time.

LowGear

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Re: Penetrating Oil Thread
« Reply #16 on: February 21, 2016, 05:52:37 PM »
Engineering For Change is a neat site.  When I'm faced with a challenge that may conger up bad thoughts I want The One.  

I've never thought of muriatic acid but we have it for the pool.  I've used it to clean/remove concrete residue and learned that it's about the most dangerous stuff I've ever messed with.  I now suit - mask & eye guard up completely for any major project and am extra careful just moving the bottle.  A research moment is in my future as I have lots of rusted crap and a gallon or two of muriatic acid around the shop all of the time.  I'm wondering if the rust doesn't help hold the penetrating solution on the stupid threads?

I've always thought of WD 40 as an emergency product when I couldn't find anything else easily.  It sounds as some of you have had good luck with it so I may just pick up another can the next time I'm at Ace.  The ATF and acetone solution still works well for me but it doesn't always apply in a friendly way.  Spit is better than nothing in a lot of challenges.

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BruceM

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Re: Penetrating Oil Thread
« Reply #17 on: February 21, 2016, 09:36:40 PM »
I used just straight vegetable oil for cleaning injector parts as I can't cope with solvents anymore.  Throw them in, let them soak a day or two, and it softens up the hardest deposits.

The pieces must be wiped down or flushed with mineral oil after that or as Mike suggests- a gummy bear will result.






guest23837

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Re: Penetrating Oil Thread
« Reply #18 on: February 21, 2016, 11:09:30 PM »
I used just straight vegetable oil for cleaning injector parts as I can't cope with solvents anymore.  Throw them in, let them soak a day or two, and it softens up the hardest deposits.

The pieces must be wiped down or flushed with mineral oil after that or as Mike suggests- a gummy bear will result.







Mineral oil as in the old style 20-50 engine oil? My rack was seized solid it's been in the crisp n dry and acetone for 8 hours or so and there's a 2-3 mm wiggle on the rack. To be honest I thought the mixture was homoeopathy for engines, now I'm not so sure... Tomorrow will tell. 

BruceM

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Re: Penetrating Oil Thread
« Reply #19 on: February 21, 2016, 11:54:12 PM »
Yes, any mineral oil will suffice to clean up the vege oil residue.  I used white mineral oil- aka baby oil.  The combination of vege oil for cleaning and then baby oil worked very well and was pleasant to work with.   I matched my MB 300D injectors for spray pattern and pop pressure by changing and honing their internal shims.  I did all my pop testing work with vege oil for safety and convenience, then flushed my pop tester, then the injectors with a light mineral oil.  

Straight vege oil is a far better and less toxic cleaner than I ever imagined.





« Last Edit: February 21, 2016, 11:58:31 PM by BruceM »

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Re: Penetrating Oil Thread
« Reply #20 on: February 22, 2016, 11:07:23 PM »
The rack is free! It's not smooth and it "sticks" in the middle sometimes but the oil/acetone stuff has worked. I have the pump in a white plastic container and there is some rust coloured sediment in the bottom. Should I get a diesel engineer to refurbish the pump or leave it soaking? Any suggestions ? Thanks

mike90045

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Re: Penetrating Oil Thread
« Reply #21 on: February 22, 2016, 11:16:05 PM »
refresh the fluid that you are soaking in ,  and cycle the parts "slowly" to work more solvent into the innards and let the magic happen for another day or two.  you may rinse out some more gum.

EdDee

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Re: Penetrating Oil Thread
« Reply #22 on: February 23, 2016, 10:58:21 AM »
Hi JD,

There is plenty of info on strip and assemble of the pumps - they generally are not particularly complex things. The camera is your friend - Before you take each piece out, take a snap if you are worried.

Above all - plungers etc must be SCRUPULOUSLY CLEAN when you re-assemble and of course dust free... Don't just drop parts into a tin or bowl, work gently with them to prevent dinging them!!

Cheers
Ed

 
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guest23837

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Re: Penetrating Oil Thread
« Reply #23 on: February 23, 2016, 09:03:30 PM »
Hi JD,

There is plenty of info on strip and assemble of the pumps - they generally are not particularly complex things. The camera is your friend - Before you take each piece out, take a snap if you are worried.

Above all - plungers etc must be SCRUPULOUSLY CLEAN when you re-assemble and of course dust free... Don't just drop parts into a tin or bowl, work gently with them to prevent dinging them!!

Cheers
Ed

I'd like to dismantle the pump myself however I cant seem to find any information on this pump. I might possibly ruin it! Im assuming I'd need a special tool to compress the spring? The veg oil acetone mix has been changed and I bought a bottle of baby oil today. The little lever on the pump is stiff and notchy it may be beyond my skills to repair it
 

EdDee

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Re: Penetrating Oil Thread
« Reply #24 on: February 23, 2016, 11:52:06 PM »
Hi JD,

Post a few pics of the unit from each side... let's see what ye are fooling with laddie! (In my best Scottish accent... not that I am Scottish of course)

Regds
Ed
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guest23837

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Re: Penetrating Oil Thread
« Reply #25 on: February 24, 2016, 09:11:11 AM »

EdDee

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Re: Penetrating Oil Thread
« Reply #26 on: February 24, 2016, 12:48:20 PM »
12/1 750RPM/9HP Roid 5kVA- WMO Disposal/Electricity & Hot Water Gen
12/1 650RPM/8HP Roid 4.5kVa - Demon Dino
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Classic Komatsu 1963 Dozer/Fergusson 35 Gold Belly ...
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guest23837

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Re: Penetrating Oil Thread
« Reply #27 on: February 24, 2016, 07:46:30 PM »
Hi JD,

Check these out.... They might help...

http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/Bryce/Bryce9.htm

http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/Bryce/Bryce8.htm

Cheers
Ed

Ed thank you very much, I just need to figure out how to compress the spring. Somewhere I have an old sykes valve spring compressor do you think that would work? JD

dieselgman

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Re: Penetrating Oil Thread
« Reply #28 on: February 24, 2016, 10:20:36 PM »
We compress the pump spring by hand... it requires some patience and a good vice to hold the pump body still.

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EdDee

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Re: Penetrating Oil Thread
« Reply #29 on: February 24, 2016, 10:35:08 PM »
Ditto Gman... Its stiff, but normally not beyond hand pressure... the spring just needs to compress about 5mm or so and you move the keyhole on the stem to take off the bottom spring retainer...

Speaking from memory here, haven't worked on a Bryce in about 20 years or so...

Am I about right Gman?

Cheers
Ed
12/1 750RPM/9HP Roid 5kVA- WMO Disposal/Electricity & Hot Water Gen
12/1 650RPM/8HP Roid 4.5kVa - Demon Dino
Chinese Yanmar - Silent Runner with AutoStart
Classic Komatsu 1963 Dozer/Fergusson 35 Gold Belly ...
Bikes,Cars,Gunsmithing & Paintball...Oh yes, a 5Ha open air Workshop to play in!