Author Topic: crank case vent  (Read 6989 times)

getterdone

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crank case vent
« on: July 21, 2011, 05:20:48 PM »
i am off grid  and in the summer i run my Lister most nights to keep batt. charged and a/c working. during the day my solar panels do the job.
my engine is leaking oil and making a mess. i was wondering if others had this problem?
i think my crank case vent isn't working properly.
so..... i thought I'd try to make a improved model out of a water ck valve.
i made a plate and tapped a half inch hole in the center screwed a shirt nipple in that and put the ck valve on that.
worked fine until the flapper got oily. then quit.
had to remove the new check valve and put the original back in place, so i could use the engine'
well it was worth a try.  i might try to grind some weight off the flapper.
any comments?
                                   john

38ac

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Re: crank case vent
« Reply #1 on: July 21, 2011, 06:25:13 PM »
The original CS engines didnt even have crank seals as we know them, just felts  and the end of the cam shaft is out where you can watch it turn and they dont leak a drop when the breather is in good order and blow by is within reason. I suspect the real problem with your sepage is engine wear and the resulting blow by but hard to say from here. Once blow by gets to a certain point it overcomes the vacuam that can be created when the piston travels upwards and oil will be forced out of every crack no mater what you do with breathers.  You might extend it for a while but overhaul is coming.
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Tom

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Re: crank case vent
« Reply #2 on: July 21, 2011, 08:17:04 PM »
Try a 3/4" spring loaded all brass check valve with the stock spring cut down to lightly load the check. How is the compression on your engine?
Tom
2004 Ashwamegh 6/1 #217 - ST5 just over 3k hours.

getterdone

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Re: crank case vent
« Reply #3 on: July 22, 2011, 02:43:27 PM »
well i don't know how much com-preshen it has. it has around 1800hrs on it.
runs good. just leaking that black oil. not enough to add oil at oil changes.  just looks bad.
i usually change oil every 250hrs.
oh and i might add i just replaced the timing gear, it was wearing out. i noticed that the magnet that i put in the crankcase was picking up a lot of filings.
taking a close look the timing gear was wearing.
so i ordered a bronze one and replaced it.
another question is.........the new gear doesn't mesh with the cam gear as much as with the crank.
is this normal?
will an offset gear bolt take care of this?........and if i need to change the bolt to get it to mesh with the cam gear, where do i get one?

xyzer

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Re: crank case vent
« Reply #4 on: July 22, 2011, 03:02:39 PM »
If you are lucky it may just be the shield behind the breather on the inside of the inspection cover. I had a serious oil puke problem when the opening was to small causing the air velosity to increase taking oil with it during the positive preasure stroke. .....they alll loose a little over time but maybe yours is doing what mine did...

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getterdone

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Re: crank case vent
« Reply #5 on: July 22, 2011, 03:42:38 PM »
i have the same engine as you.
behind the inspection cover there is no shield.
maby i could ad something.

xyzer

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Re: crank case vent
« Reply #6 on: July 22, 2011, 04:46:15 PM »
There should be a sheet metal shield to keep the spashing oil out of the vent exit area. Allow for a fair amount of of air flow. If it restricted it will do what mine did....I would sure make one and try it!
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Tom

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Re: crank case vent
« Reply #7 on: July 22, 2011, 05:24:08 PM »
Where is it leaking from?
Tom
2004 Ashwamegh 6/1 #217 - ST5 just over 3k hours.

getterdone

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Re: crank case vent
« Reply #8 on: July 22, 2011, 09:22:00 PM »
xyzer,and tom.,   some oil is blowing out the breather, but I'm getting some from the mains,cam shaft,and some from the lifter for the injection pump.
it's like I'm not creating enough vaccum to keep the oil in.
the breather doesn't seem to be blowing excessive amount of pressure out of it.  i don't think i have much blow by the rings.
I've tried turning the spring steel valve over and it helps a little.
i just don't think the valve is working as good as it should.,that's why i was experimenting with the brass check valve.

Tom

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Re: crank case vent
« Reply #9 on: July 22, 2011, 10:47:39 PM »
xyzer has a good point. Have you checked the sheet metal shroud for the breather? It is located the inside of the crankcase right on the opening to the breather tube.
Tom
2004 Ashwamegh 6/1 #217 - ST5 just over 3k hours.

getterdone

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Re: crank case vent
« Reply #10 on: July 22, 2011, 11:52:28 PM »
it's not there. could someone post a picture what it might look like

ronmar

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Re: crank case vent
« Reply #11 on: July 23, 2011, 04:48:05 AM »
Well oil comming from other locations tells me you are not pulling enough vacume.  You might try a different type check valve.  The hinged type may not seal as well as a center plunger type.  In the plumbing/pump section at Home Depot, they have foot valves, which is a inline checkvalve and a strainer that goes at the end of the pump suction line to keep water from flowing back to where it was pumped from and to maintain pump prime.  I use one of these pointing straight up with the strainer and spring removed and just gravity pushing the plunger closed.

One problem I see is you mentioned 1/2" for the fitting and I am assuming valve you used?  I don't think that is large enough to fully exhaust the piston volume/displacement in the relatively short time allotted.  The valve has to open freely with the pressure difference and allow a large volume of gas to pass.  I think you want the valve probably closer to 1", which is I believe what I use.  I took a flat piece of plate and drilled 3 holes to match the screw holes on top of the existing breather elbow.  I put a 1" hole in the middle and welded a 1" close nipple over the hole and screwed the check valve to that nipple pointing straight up.  Mine works good, with only a little oil vapor exiting the valve.

What engine are you running? What kind of load are you running?   What kind of engine temps are you running?   
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getterdone

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Re: crank case vent
« Reply #12 on: July 23, 2011, 02:36:20 PM »
ronmar, that is exactly what i was doing with the 1/2" c/k valve.
the plate is already made i just need to tap the hole 1" now., i think i have a 1 1/4" foot valve for a well pump. this might work.
I'll get back and post Monday .
my cousin's have me busy on a float trip to day. it's been nearly 100 every day the past week and no relief in sight. good time to intertube float these cool Missouri rivers.
ronmar, what rpm do you run your engine?
i usually run mine betwen 450, and 550 rpm . mine is a 6/1 vihata.  when i have it belted to the generater head i have to run it about 550 for 125v a/c or 230v a/c .
i only use the generator head for pumping  [well pump] to fill a 1550gal tank that takes care of my water.
when i have it belted to the 24v delco 90 amp alternator i can run less, i back it off depending on batt. voltage.
when it's this hot, i have to run all night to keep batt's up.
during the day my solar array keeps up.