Author Topic: Started back on the old Kryslar PH1 Petteroid, crud in cooling passages  (Read 5277 times)

buickanddeere

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 799
    • View Profile
  Took the cylinder head to work today for a cleanup in the sandblaster and a valve bowl porting job. Using a 1-5/32" drill bit, the cast obstructions in the valve bowl, around the valve seats and cast value guides were bored out down to the valve stem contact area.The cast was "soft" and easy to cut.
     I didn't allow enough for deflection of the drill bit and dinged the valve seats a little. The seats were borderline low anyways after a couple of valve jobs. Cutting and installing hardened seats should do the trick.
   I though the coolant passages were bunged "some" with calcium,lime and Barrs Leak. The amount of crud was unreal.The engine had been running air cooled rather than water cooled. The fool Amish that had it used it to run  cow milking machines for 20-30 minutes twice a day. The engine must have been smoking hot by the time the milking was completed..He must have added cooling water from the cattle water trough plus something nasty to attempt sealing of the coolant seepage from under the head gasket.   
     Several passages were completely blocked. I've sand blasted and chiseled all I can reach. I guess a soaking in muratic acid is next, too bad those new bronze valve guides are going to get dissolved. The engine shop that had "boiled" the head and installed the bronze liners.Didn't remove the welch plugs from the sides of the head. The exhaust side coolant passage was 100% plugged.
  The sand blaster was also pointed down the ports for several minutes from the manifold side. Surprising how much the ports were cleaned,smoothed and fresh cut edges rounded off.
  The edges should be blended with a dremel tool around the valve bowls.
  I had hoped there would have been some spot to drill and add a weenie little N8 sized glow plug but there is no obvious place in the cylinder head.
  The head will have to be planned on the combustion chamber side and the intake,exhaust and coolant port surface.The areas previously exposed to the "coolant"  are  pitted.
  The head pretty much matched the cobbled up combination of parts the fuel system consisted of. Looks like the bottom end will have to come apart for inspection too. Who knows what they may have tinkered together in there.

buickanddeere

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 799
    • View Profile
ideal solvent for crud in cooling passages?
« Reply #1 on: January 29, 2010, 01:19:28 AM »
  The head coolant passages were clogged and baked solid. Hot tanking opened up some flow between the passages. On a whim I popped the "frost plugs"/welch plugs from each side of the head and it was still full. Chipped and sand blasted out what we thought was most of it which consisted of sand and clay baked into "brick".
   Placed in CLR for five days and found 1/4 of sludge in the bottom of the 5 gallon pail. After six days a sort of "jelly" oozed out. Rinsed again then soaked in vinegar for three days.
  Took the head back to work and sandblasted some more "just to tidy up". Some more chipping reveled a previously unknown coolant passage from the frost plugs around to the injector tube and continued to the other frost plug.Enough scale to make a half a handful in the palm of the hand.
   More chipping and sandblasting tomorrow then perhaps another soaking session in something. At least the metal adjacent to the valve seats,valve stems and deck now has some direct contact with coolant.   
   After some measuring I have to wonder. Did the Petteroid clones with the bores above 3-13/16" have to move or reduce the dia of the deck coolant holes? A 4" bore leaves only 3/16 to 1/4 deck for gasket sealing with this engines coolant passages.
   

buickanddeere

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 799
    • View Profile
muratic acid and anybody selling sleeves and pistons?
« Reply #2 on: February 04, 2010, 10:35:43 PM »
  Had to resort to 30% muratic acid to clean the head and cylinder block.  Pressed the sleeve from the cylinder block and snad blasted everything clean. Outside of sleeve is deeply pitted on the lower 2 inches where was coated with scale etc. The pits could be smoothed with expoy glue in a pinch perhaps. The inside of the bore is a loss, it won't cleanup with a 40 thou overbore. Egg shaped, heavy ring ridge at the top and rusted out areas from sitting full of water for years.
   Two of the webbed feet on the base of the cylinder block have hairline cracks due somebody didn't care to own a torque wrench. Apparently they figured tighter was better. Anybody tried "Muggy Weld" to repair cast iron?
   Anybody have a PJ1W or PH1W sleeve/piston/ring set on the shelf for sale? After measuring this Kryslar block and head, there is enough room to safely go to the 3-13/16" sleeve.

Doug

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3386
  • Why don't pictures ever work for me?
    • View Profile
    • Doug's Petteroid Stuff
Re: Started back on the old Kryslar PH1 Petteroid, crud in cooling passages
« Reply #3 on: February 05, 2010, 01:47:09 AM »
wash that acid with some baking soda to make sure its neutral in there.

Keep me posted previous offer as discussed still open.
It's a Good Life, If You Don't Weaken

buickanddeere

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 799
    • View Profile
Re: Started back on the old Kryslar PH1 Petteroid, crud in cooling passages
« Reply #4 on: February 05, 2010, 03:24:16 AM »
  I gave her a real thorough blasting with a stream of hot water. Then took it to work and sand blasted every little part of the cylinder block,sleeve and head.
   I accidentally removed some metal around the head deck coolant passages. Partly because the deposits were as solid as building brick and I was too keen with the sand blaster.And partly that cast is so soft a drill bit of tap goes through it like butter.
    It's either mill 100thou off the head or use some muggy weld around the coolant holes.
   As an old tractor pulling trick for deck/gasket support of overbored engines. The coolant holes actually took a 3/8" taper pipe tap perfectly without drilling. I tapped the block passages and the two deep head passages so a cast pipe plug torques tight with a thread or two raised. The plugs can be brazed,silver soldered or muggy welded in place. Then machined flat along with the deck surface. A smaller coolant passage is drilled as far outboard as possible. Leaving circulation in place and lots of deck metal to clamp the head gasket.

bluetick

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 6
    • View Profile
Not knowing what kind of repair your looking at, but I've seen repairs with this product.

 www.locknstitch.com