Stop lever

[somian]

I have a 8/1 on a start-o-matic set, and it appears not to have the stop lever. Is this normal on start-o-matic engines? Also, what does the stop lever actually do to stop the engine; does it force the pump control rack to the no fuel delivery position, or does it stop the pump plunger moving, or what?

Also, how does one prime the fuel system on a start-o-matic set, because as I see it when the  decompressor is operated the pump delivers no fuel, and conversely to get the pump on maximum delivery the thing is compressing. On my Petter one can fill the injector pipe by operating the priming lever, or by winding it over decompressed. On the Lister I assume I have to take part of the stop mechanism apart, so that I can wind it over decompressed but with the pump on full delivery. Is this the way to do it?

Ian

[compig]

The hand starting procedure prescribed by Lister is to lift the fuel control solenoid bell crank by hand and fit a collar , obviously supplied in the original tool kit , between the coil case and the bell crank and to stop remove the collar. Obviously with the collar in place the engine can be rocked backwards and forwards over the injection point to prime the fuel system. 

[AdeV73]

I have a 8/1 on a start-o-matic set, and it appears not to have the stop lever. Is this normal on start-o-matic engines?

It is indeed normal. The stop lever is replaced by a crank operated from the decompression solenoid.

Also, what does the stop lever actually do to stop the engine; does it force the pump control rack to the no fuel delivery position, or does it stop the pump plunger moving, or what?

The first of those; i.e. it pushes the rack so that no fuel is delivered.

Also, how does one prime the fuel system on a start-o-matic set, because as I see it when the  decompressor is operated the pump delivers no fuel, and conversely to get the pump on maximum delivery the thing is compressing. On my Petter one can fill the injector pipe by operating the priming lever, or by winding it over decompressed. On the Lister I assume I have to take part of the stop mechanism apart, so that I can wind it over decompressed but with the pump on full delivery. Is this the way to do it?

The way I did mine was:
 - Unscrew the cone-shaped widget that actually pushes against the rack & withdraw it. This allows the decompression solenoid to be in the "decompressed" (default) position, and the fuel rack to be open.
 - Now loosen the top of the injector pipe
 - I'm assuming you've already primed as far as the fuel pump using gravity


You can now either rock the engine over the injection point, or - because it's a start-o-matic with uber-heavy flywheels, I found mine easier to just spin up as fast as possible with the handle, then allow her to spin back down. Repeat until primed, then re-fit the parts you loosened/removed above; and you're ready for a trial start!

[somian]

Thank you for your input, folks. It has occured to me that another way, which will require a little manufacturing, is to make some sort of collar to go around the bottom of the exhaust pushrod, so that the exhaust valve never quite closes, and to wedge the stop system on the top of the solenoid as suggested, then it should spin as freely as they ever do with the pump on full stroke.

[listeroil]

Somian

Why dont you just press the start button its a lot easier

Mick

[potter]

I simpley use a screwdriver to lift the coller on mine while cranking

[somian]

Pressing the start button would have no effect because the electrics are not connected yet

Ian