Author Topic: Fuel Pump Pawl assembly (Read 6595 times)

dubbleUJay · « **on:** June 20, 2009, 07:50:25 AM »

Hello guys,

Can someone tell me if the assembly of the Fuel Pump Pawl is correct please? I put it back together like it was, but after looking at the manual, I'm not to sure if it is the correct way.

In the manual:

On my pump:

It does however work correctly with my assembly I think, by allowing the rack to open all the way for starting (If I lift it up manually prior to starting obviously) and falling to its rest position when it started, thus avoiding it opening all the way, but I like to get things right!

Thanks,
dubbleUJay

AdeV73 · « **Reply #1 on:** June 20, 2009, 10:28:16 AM »

Looks spot-on to me, this is mine:


Pushrod side	Fuel pump side

(click either pic for the big version)

Stan · « **Reply #2 on:** June 20, 2009, 02:54:25 PM »

In the manual the little dimple beside the bolt hole is up. Don't take my word for it though, I've been trying to find one of those for a couple of years now!

Stan

dubbleUJay · « **Reply #3 on:** June 20, 2009, 04:48:07 PM »

Quote from: Stan on June 20, 2009, 02:54:25 PM

In the manual the little dimple beside the bolt hole is up. Don't take my word for it though, I've been trying to find one of those for a couple of years now!
Stan

Hi Stan,
That little dimple is the hole were the stopper goes in, the picture in the manual seems upside down, cus the stopper actually goes in on the other side.
This part should be very easy to make, just shout if you want the dimensions.
As I understand it, it should be a fuel saver on overload conditions, where the pump injects more fuel than the engine can use. It intended to be flipped upwards for more fuel when you start it, but it's a manual thingy, it returns to normal position when the rack closes a bit after starting. The SOM does not use it automatically for starting, it just stops the rack from opening all the way.

Regards,

dubbleUJay · « **Reply #4 on:** June 20, 2009, 04:51:36 PM »

Sorry Ade,

I was so into explaining to Stan, I forgot to thank you for the pics. It looks like mine is right then.

Thanks again,

Stan · « **Reply #5 on:** June 20, 2009, 07:20:31 PM »

SHOUT SHOUT SHOUT! I'd love the dimensions! I can make it myself but haven't been able to find them anywhere!
Stan

AdeV73 · « **Reply #6 on:** June 20, 2009, 08:16:47 PM »

Quote from: dubbleUJay on June 20, 2009, 04:51:36 PM

I was so into explaining to Stan, I forgot to thank you for the pics. It looks like mine is right then.

No problem... and yes, it looks like yours is good

I didn't realise they moved (I guess they don't on the S-O-M), but the fact they do a) makes sense, and b) is a rather clever alternative to a choke. You have to hand it to those Lister chaps, they really came up with some neat solutions.

Quote from: Stan on June 20, 2009, 07:20:31 PM

SHOUT SHOUT SHOUT! I'd love the dimensions! I can make it myself but haven't been able to find them anywhere!

Stan - Unfortunately I'd left the office for the day when I saw your post, otherwise I'd have measured mine; however, mine is a start-o-matic, and may be different to the pawl you need.

Stan · « **Reply #7 on:** June 21, 2009, 02:02:52 AM »

No rush, and no I don't think they'd be different. Whenever you get time is fine.

Stan

dubbleUJay · « **Reply #8 on:** June 21, 2009, 08:42:23 AM »

Quote from: Stan on June 20, 2009, 07:20:31 PM

SHOUT SHOUT SHOUT! I'd love the dimensions! I can make it myself but haven't been able to find them anywhere!
Stan

Stan, after I thought about all the time it must have taken AdeV to draw the sketches for me in another post, it occurred to me that there might be a easier way. The other thing is that I work completely in metric!

So, I came up with this idea:
I downloaded a free Graph Paper printing program,
printed one with 1/16th of an inch scale,
put my parts onto the paper
and took a picture of it!

Would this be acceptable for you to work out all the distances? (You can zoom in a bit, but if you cannot see it properly, I can upload one in a higher resolution.)

If its not, let me know so that I can measure it up for you, but it will be in millimeters unfortunately. (Or if you prefer metric, I could take a picture on a 1mm scaled background graph paper, if I recall, your from Canada and I just presume your using imperial 'cus of your next door neighbors

Regards

PS- Yes, I know I'm a lazy @%$&*, but this might just be a new (or old) way to send dimensions an easier way in the forum!

Stan · « **Reply #9 on:** June 22, 2009, 12:39:52 AM »

Nope that'll do just fine....How thick is it?

I wonder where I could source a bolt like that without a machinist charging me the $75 min shop rate?

Maybe a regular bolt with some sleeve or other.
Stan

dubbleUJay · « **Reply #10 on:** June 22, 2009, 04:15:18 AM »

Quote from: Stan on June 22, 2009, 12:39:52 AM

Nope that'll do just fine....How thick is it?

I wonder where I could source a bolt like that without a machinist charging me the $75 min shop rate?

Maybe a regular bolt with some sleeve or other.
Stan

Sorry Stan, I'm having a forgetful weekend!

204=6mm
205=15mm (Length sticking out from 204)
206=5mm

The bolt is a bit of a problem, but it only allows part no.204 to move or rotate loosely, part 205 stops it rotating all the way around by pushing against the pump rack on one side and part 206 on other side. About a 90deg movement.
I'm sure one can use something else if you keep this in mind.
Part 206 is actually a spacer and the notch on the one corner allows part no.205 to move past it when 204 is lifted up.

Please remember that the drawing from the manual is unclear, part 205 actually fits on the other side of 204. Have a look at the picture on the 1st post of this thread.

Let me know if you need more info.

Stan · « **Reply #11 on:** June 22, 2009, 04:26:31 AM »

Perfect, Thank you! IOU1
Stan

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