I need some help

[arborlis]

I have an air cooled engine with bryce berger pumps. There's a shaft going thru the pumps that move when a knob thats on the crankcase cover is pulled up. The shaft has to be manually moved back to the left while pulling up on the knob. What is the shaft for? How do I manipulate the shaft without removing the engine cover? I'm trying to start the engine. It's been sitting for a long time. I cleaned the system and have fresh fuel at the bleeders on the injection pumps. Any ideas? How is fuel turned on and shut off? How are the injection pumps driven?

Thanks

[lowspeedlife]

the shaft you refer to is the "fuel rack" pushing it one way shuts off the fuel, the other way gives you maximum fuel. the pumps are actuated by a cam lobe directly below the pumps themselves. that lobe is inside the engine & you can't see it unless you open up the engine. the lobe pushes on a "piston" inside the pump body that compresses the fuel under great pressure, causing the fuel to move up the steel fuel line & move a "needle" off of it's seat & sprays the fuel into the cylinder. be carefull with the injectors, if it is out of the engine & the pump is actuated the high pressure fule can be sprayed directly into your skin, causing great pain & the possability of having to amputate the affected area of your body to save your life.

[arborlis]

I'm confused. The rack position doesn't change when I move the throttle. The knob I referred to has me confused also. It seems to have the rack blocked somehow.

[lowspeedlife]

The rack has teeth made on it & a small gear inside the pump rides on these teeth, so there could be something jamming the rack from moving, this is not uncommon, often times the old fuel will become gummed up inside & stick the parts together, if you can disconnect the linkages from between the pumps you may be able to tell which one is binding. try not to alter the length of these linkages because they balance out the fuel sent to each cylinder, keeping equal load on each cylinder. dont try to take apart the pumps if you have never done it before, there are springs under high tension inside that could hurt you or someone near by if they come flying out!!

[Combustor]

            Hello Arborlis,
                              If you can quote an engine model some forum members may be able to offer some more specific help. The linkage connecting the pumps should
be free to move against spring pressure which normally holds it in the running position. The knob could be the shutdown control, and on some Listers you need to pull
it firmly outward over a lug to release it, and possibly over a second lug to the full fuel "start" position. If this is not the problem, find that model number, and someone
will be able to help.       Regards,   Combustor.

[arborlis]

The model is HB2. Same as the HA, but runs a little faster for more power (26hp@2200 rpm). The rack moves to the left against the spring pressure. When the knob is pulled up the rack moves to the right. Only way I can get it to go back to the original position is by reaching inside the engine with the cover off and moving the rack manually. I'm not even sure the engine will start. It's been sitting for years. I tried starting it a couple days ago and it was belching smoke out of the stack. I've heard if oil is placed in the cylinder it will raise the compression and help it start. Will starting fluid hurt the engine? I had a perkins someone sprayed and it cracked the piston skirts.

[barry100]

Hi arborlis
The reason the rack doesn't move when you move the throtle is because it it already in full speed position, when ( if) it starts the rack will be moved by the govenor to a slower speed, 'then' the throtle  can  move the rack to a faster speed untill you get to desired speed, you  should have  a excess fuel button ( similar to a choke on a perol engine ) that can be pulled out to help with cold starting this is  4 inches north of the stop lever, it will click  when (if)  the rack moves to maximum  fuel position  . you can take the rocker covers off and squirt some engine oil down the breather tubes( about 2 1/2 inches long) into the inlet ports of the cylinder heads to help with the compression
Barry

[arborlis]

Thanks for the help! I finally have some time to tinker around today. Hopefully I will have her fired up soon!

[arborlis]

I sprayed a flame of wd-40 at the intake and she fired up. This engine sat up for 10 years. It runs great and will start on the first compression stroke. It's rated at 2200 rpm. What happens if I run it at 1100 rpm? The twin disk pto will not disengage. Any ideas there?

[Combustor]

Hello Arborlis,
                  Sounds like you have a good motor there. Yes you could run it at 1100 rpm for about half its max. output but that is about the lower limit of its power range and you may find governing is not very accurate at that speed. The max torque, therefore best economy is probably in the 1500 to 1800 rpm range. If it comes with a
pto clutch it will probably not have the more accurate governor and heavy flywheel usually supplied for constant speed alternator use.
         The pto clutch may well have discs sticking if it has been stored in damp conditions with the clutch engaged. Should be able to remove inspection cover and with
lever disengaged, back off the adjusting collar and slap the lever back and forth a few times. If this fails, it's not a big job to dismount the housing to withdraw the plates
and free them manually. Alsocheck the spigot bearing while apart, as a stiff or siezed bearing will cause a clutch to lock up. Carefully observe any lube info shown on the plate.
          Good luck with your Lister!   Regards,  Combustor.

[arborlis]

Thanks for all the info, I appreciate your time. I haven't had time to get into the twin disk pto as of yet. I did change the oil. The old oil filter had a manufacture date of july 1998. The engine definitely sat unused for many years. I start it occasionally and it always hits on the first stroke. I will be coupling an ST style head to it soon.