Pulling a pulley

[AdeV73]

Well... I've made some decent progress at last

The slip-rings came off easily enough, in the end, so next off was the bearing (seen just behind the rings in the pics above, with the tube sticking upwards. This whole area was a big solid mass of grease. Once removed, the back of the alternator slipped off with minimal use of a lump hammer (and a cloth, to protect the paint). A rubber mallet would have been a better tool, but I couldn't find it...



(Apologies for the piss-poor photos, only got my emergency backup camera down here @ the shed just now - have now updated some of them to clear versions...)

Pulling the back off revealed the bushes & internal slip ring, the bushes were then removed:



Removing 4 bolts at the front, and with a little gentle hammering, the entire core, pulley & front casting could be withdrawn easily:



It's pretty full of crud...



So... the next jobs are:

1) A major clean-up of all the electrical bits. I'm not sure what to clean them with, though - a plain pressure washer? Or should I soak the whole shebang with Gunk first? The dirt appears to be a mixture of soil and grease...

2) Removing that damn pulley:



Current idea is to grind the lip off the end of the shaft, so the pulley can at least come over the end; then make a puller which bolts into the three large bolt holes you can see in the pic above and pushes against the shaft to try to pull the pulley over the end of the shaft. I can use oxyacetelene to heat the pulley to assist the over-the-front removal.

3) Removing the rest of the ironwork from the shaft. In order to do that, I'll need to remove the bearing at the end of the shaft:



Any ideas how I go about that? Heat? Or should it push off with a bit of WD40 & effort?

4) Test all the electrical bits to make sure nothing's broken or shorted out. Time to get the wiring diagrams out...

[compig]

Looks like a cruddy job !!  Cleaning , I would suggest brake cleaner. Very thorough and evaporates. Buy a bulk drum though , doing it with aerosol cans is expensive.

[Stan]

An old blacksmith taught me "always be careful of heating round things that you want to take off of shafts".  The physics behind that warning is pretty simple, heated metal expands, some quite a lot!  When you have something like a pulley, or a flywheel, heating the center of it makes it expand, but if the outer edges stay relatively cold, there's nowhere to expand too!   

This makes the center want to clamp down on the shaft that much harder.  If you could heat the entire pulley somehow, then it would all expand and the technique would probably work.

Be careful though, that method is fraught with unpredictable difficulties.   
Stan

[lowspeedlife]

Don't know how far appart the bolt holes are, but it looks like a standard harmonic ballancer puller  would be just the ticket if the holes aren't more than 5 or six inches apart. the harmonic ballancer puller looks like a birds foot print or a peace sign with out the circle around it, & has slots for bolts to go down thru & into the pulley holes, with a large screw in the center
don't forget to cut off or clean up the end of the shaft.

   Scott

[lowspeedlife]

I posted this image in my last post but it didn't come thru... so i'll try it again

http://www.nextag.com/harmonic-balancer-puller/compare-html 

Guess you'll have to click the link

[AdeV73]

Compig: Would celulose thinners work? I have a drum of that stuff, but no brake cleaner...

Stan: That makes sense Unfortunately, I don't have the capability to freeze the shaft (which would definitely work) or heat the entire pulley (which might work, but probably won't). I could, as has been suggested elsewhere, simply cut the pulley up & make a new one when required; but if I can separate both in one piece, that would be better.... I'm no longer certain that the shaft is scrap, I think the undulations I'd seen towards the rear may just have been the bushes becoming deranged.

Scott: Interesting pieces of kit; but as my shaft is bent, I'm not so sure that those things would have the strength to pull pully & gib key out without folding themselves... I may still have to pursue the idea of pushing the pulley further onto the shaft (hopefully that'd free up the remnants of the gib key). However, I hope to take delivery of the lathe this week (and with the "how to use a lathe & not get chewed up in it" videos in the post, I may even survive long enough to turn my own puller...

...probably along these lines: http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=702.msg4518#msg4518 - only I'll be using a Triumph hub which I've got lying around, rather than a Ford one

[abbamovers]

Ade, you have done most of the hard work.
The armature is out.
I would try to remove any set screw ( that threaded hole at the end of the pulley ) and get it out.
If you can't get it out not to worry the next operation WILL push it out.
Then make sure you get a copy of those numbers stamped onto the end of the buggered shaft for future reference.
Get yourself a big angle grinder ( cover the armature in a heavy protective non flamable material ) and grind down the buggered end flush with the pully face.
Next beg , borrow or take it to someone that has a 20 or 30 ton press ( the ones with the hydralic bottle jack ) and set the armature up in a vertical position with parallel bars under the bearing edges. Get an old socket from the tool box that is a little smaller than the shaft ( you did measure it right ? ) and centre it up and bring the ram down.
Pump the pressure up and it should squeeze that puppy right out, stone cold no heat required.
Make sure you have lots of padding to catch the armature.
And odds are if the shaft is not bent you can still reuse it the way it is, just rechamfer the end.
Have fun and take your time.
.

[oliver90owner]

Would celulose thinners work?

All sorts of solvents might work.  They also might affect the winding insulation that was used in those days long gone.  Just beware of that, keep all solvents well clear of the impregnated parts and you should be alright.

Regards, RAB

[compig]

Compig: Would celulose thinners work? I have a drum of that stuff, but no brake cleaner...

Not as well as brake cleaner. Cellulose thinners are also a solvent so paint & varnish may be attacked if thats an issue. 

[AdeV73]

After an initial brushing with liberal quantities of Gunk...

Before:

After:

Still plenty of cleaning left to do... but I'm high on Gunk fumes now.

The two tags which come out of the rear, what exactly do they connect to? AC or starting windings? Anyway, they seem to measure between 1.5 and 0.8 ohms, but the variation may be down to the water which is still draining from the windings as I took the picture. I can't find anythign in the S-o-M manual which should have a 0.8ohm resistance...



As always, if interested you can click the pix for a bigger version.

[compig]

Ahhh , good old Gunk !! There will certainly be a nice aroma when it runs up the first time !!  Can't comment on the tags as the picture's won't work at the moment.

[mkdutchman]

Hey AdeW
How are you doing with this thing by now?

[MeanListerGreen]

Throw away that WD 40 and by some Kroil.  Then borrow or buy a pnuematic or electric engraver.  Use the engraver to introduce some hamonics to the situation.  This will help loosen things up and let the Kroil into all those tiny little spaces.  "Kroil, the oil that creeps"  Works everytime for me.  Good luck.

[AdeV73]

How are you doing with this thing by now?

No further progress, I'm afraid; been a bit distracted with work & racing cars... and I'm about to go on holiday for 3 weeks. So.... sometime in July I'll be back on the case

Throw away that WD 40 and by some Kroil.  Then borrow or buy a pnuematic or electric engraver.  Use the engraver to introduce some hamonics to the situation.  This will help loosen things up and let the Kroil into all those tiny little spaces.  "Kroil, the oil that creeps"  Works everytime for me.  Good luck.

Kroil.... is there a UK distributor? It looks good, and I'll try some if I can get it without having to import it...

[M61hops]

Hi Ade.  Did you find a setscrew in the bottom of the hole over the key?  If you could get that out and fill the hole with Kroil or any brand of penetrating oil and let it sit while you were gone on your trip you would maybe be a little ahead of the game when you get back!  Just a thought.  Have a nice vacation!     Leland