Author Topic: Removing smell from exhaust gas (Read 9637 times)

jens · « **on:** January 05, 2009, 11:47:03 PM »

removed

Tom · « **Reply #1 on:** January 05, 2009, 11:54:09 PM »

Don't try that with WMO. I find that if there is to much in the blend it will blow white smoke until warmed up and will slobber quite a bit too.

listeroidsusa1 · « **Reply #2 on:** January 06, 2009, 02:48:09 AM »

Commercial exhaust purifiers are available. These are on ebay as universal catalytic converters for around $40. I did extensive emissions work on the engines a couple of years ago and cat cons are not a bad thing. They remove the haze and smell. On my emissions analyzer the HC and CO emissions went to almost zero. Unfortunately those cat cons do little to nothing to curb NOx. There are 2 way cats and 3 way cats available. The 2 way cats are cheaper and work well on HC and CO (smell and carbon monoxide). It takes more controls to limit NOx but I devised a simple technique to lower NOx by 80%. It went from 675 ppm to 135 ppm. Unfortunately I lacked the $43K annual fee for EPA registration and certification.

Mike

sailawayrb · « **Reply #3 on:** January 06, 2009, 03:44:09 AM »

I don't think activated carbon will stand the test of time. I chose to burn SVO for the sole purpose of eliminating any odors. I also exhaust into an underground concrete cistern (14 inch diameter and 8 feet long), then through 4 inch diameter, flexible, non-perforated, plastic drain pipe about 100 feet to ground level. The entire exhaust runs downhill (about half a level bubble). You can't see or smell anything under any load or cold temp (Seattle) that I have experienced. You can only slightly hear it, and only if you actually get within a couple feet of it.

sailawayrb · « **Reply #4 on:** January 06, 2009, 02:56:36 PM »

To do this right, one would likely use some type of scrubber. A scrubber is basically a properly size chamber that the exhaust gases are forced to flow through so as to allow spraying with some scrubber agent (which could be water or something more exotic depending on exactly what you are trying to remove). The scrubber agent is typically collected, replenished as required, pollutant contaminants properly disposed of, reused to maximum extent, and heat can be extracted out of it for other purposes. Obviously, a scrubber is a sizable project and investment, and probably not a viable solution for your objedctives.

Stan · « **Reply #5 on:** January 06, 2009, 08:36:58 PM »

I don't know about that! If Jens keeps sticking his nose in there and inhaling deeply, it could just do the trick. Maybe he'll be a little bit less understandable eventually but then who'd notice anyway?

Stan

gpkull · « **Reply #6 on:** January 07, 2009, 04:03:12 AM »

maybe instead of trying to remove a smell from the exhaust feed it wvo and let it smell good. burnt fries over dino anyday.

gpkull · « **Reply #7 on:** January 07, 2009, 04:22:55 AM »

pops has a 12/1 1000rpm and gets 4 hrs per gallon at 5k on 1/3 dino,wvo,hydraulic. i have 2 twins and have not run long enough to get actual figures. sounds to me your roid is hungry for some reason.

SteveU. · « **Reply #8 on:** January 07, 2009, 04:27:21 PM »

Morning Jens
Enjoying the storm? Wind just knocked out our power again.
Interesting results you are achieving with the urbanization of your Listeriod power plant for noise and smell abatement.
jpkulls fathers engine is a 12/1 Single cylinder like mine. Thanks for the loaded fuel consumption report jp.
cschuerm on another tread is reporting a 60 day 10.5 hours a day loaded Twin fuel consumption as 5 US? gallons. So you would seem high. BUT: US versus Imperial and mixed fuels versus straight Dino diesel may be part of the explanation.
Thank you listeriodusa1 for the onhands emissions feedback. After the last time I can't bring my self to get that C-C-C word past my lips with a foot in the mouth still in the way.

Regards to all
SteveU.

cschuerm · « **Reply #9 on:** January 07, 2009, 04:58:24 PM »

Sometimes it's hard to remember that this is a multi-national forum and it's easy to just think "local". Yes, my fuel consumption numbers were US gal. Plain 'ol pump dino diesel. I haven't kept accurate track of the consumption - should have as this would have been a great run to do that. Just know that I'm hauling a full 5 gal jug to the site each morning and it's empty at the end of the day with variable residual left in the roid's tank. I do know the load is changing dramatically during the day as the contractors use various tools, turn heaters on/off, etc.
Sure has been nice to have the old gal available though!
Chris

Grael · « **Reply #10 on:** January 09, 2009, 03:17:26 AM »

I still say a catalytic converter would be best. It would need to be put as close to the engine as possible, maybe just before the expansion tank, or after. I'd get a catalyst from a newer VW TDI, they seem quite robust and 'light' quite easily.

oliver90owner · « **Reply #11 on:** January 09, 2009, 06:55:30 AM »

fuel consumption figures could be useful is if there was a meter recording the amount of power generated. Even with my setup, I am not sure if the 4800W rating of the heater is accurate enough to make an assumption of the overall power drawn.

House meters are not difficult to come by. You have one? Plug in power meters are similarly cheap and easily obtainable, but not perhaps to 5kW.

Get one and use it?

Secondly, use the one you do have.

It should not be difficult to determine the output from your site heater by measuring usage from your mains supply for a very short while. Plug it in, turn it on, allow to get to operating temperature, count revolutions per unit time or time per revolution of disc on meter. Calculate power of heater from results and spec. on the meter. If it is a digital meter, do it for a set time or set power usage indicated. Just remember to turn off the rest of the house while you are doing it. Check it a second time. Job done if both results are compatible..

Now you know the output of the site heater as acurately as you need at mains voltage, you can simply adjust for any small voltage variation on the 'oid.

Regards, RAB

billswan · « **Reply #12 on:** January 09, 2009, 01:39:29 PM »

Quote from: jens on January 07, 2009, 07:26:40 PM

I did get some rope heaters in from Omega this morning but they are not installed yet.

Jens

Jens

could you please post where these rope heaters come from I think I will need some hopefully soon. thanks

Billswan

Stan · « **Reply #13 on:** January 09, 2009, 03:19:03 PM »

Bill...try this guy. No connection, never bought anything from, check out the site anyway and let us know if it's what you want.
STan

http://www.fattywagons.com/

billswan · « **Reply #14 on:** January 10, 2009, 01:46:41 PM »

Stan

Checked out fattywagons heaters they look good if you have 12 volts available but the ones on the Omega site jens referred me to look handier as they run on 120 volts , just hook up to the st gen. Thanks for the heads up guys I know this has been discussed before but there are getting to be so many posts on this sight........... well you guessed it I am to lazy to use the search function........Thanks Stan and thanks Jens

Billswan

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