TRB Crank HELP

[Stan]

As I understand the workings of this forum, a guest shouldn't have any rights to post!  As I understand the minimum code of polite behaviour, anyone posting a comment such as this should be banned.  I know there have been other posters who have used negative phrases, however they have included some comments on the engine, or methodology of restoration or something akin engines etc....this is just plain personal negativity.
Stan

[Tom]

And I wanted to know if it worked. It didn't sound like it would be to difficult to make work with a few steel shims to take up the majority of the space. If the case was to wide that would have been a much more difficult situation to resolve.

[Stan]

I dunno how it works Jens...He posted on Dec 22nd under Guest, and I wondered how he did it then?

Tom, I don't think, given his attitude and his knowledge base, that we would have gotten any meaningful information out of him anyway.  And if we did, would you believe it?
Stan

[Quinnf]

Stan,

All you have to do is re-register using the same moniker, post your comment, then unsubscribe again.  And "guest" will appear next to your name.

Unless the admin. bans someone's IP address they can come back like a phantom.

Quinn

[Tom]

Good point Stan.

[oliver90owner]

If he had any credibility, someone might believe him.  He does not.

Regards, RAB

[nobby]

Well sorry to drag up this old chestnut but there was one unanswered question with regard to whether SEP was advertising that you can in their opinion retrofit a CS with the TRB's.  Well I never got around to emailing them but instead just found the answer here:
http://www.stationaryengineparts.com/electric-start-components-2400-0.html
About half way down comment #1.  This is in regard to counter balanced cranks but they no doubt have the same opinion in regard to the regular crank.  In the disclaimer at the end they claim compatibility between Lister and Paramount/Powerline products.

Cheers
Nobby

[matt]

I made a bunch of gaskets (joints) of various thickness material for the main bearing housings, and by trial and error added or removed them untill I had just got rid of end play in the crank.  Some are made of plain typing paper.  I have read of others using a few thousandths of end play in the crank for TRBs but I think they should be just snug like the wheel bearing on a car.

This was a great reply from "12 gauge" on page 1 of this thread, that answered the question well.
All tigger needed was to shim it up with paper shims as documented very well by Quinn in his excellent kit engine report on the Utterpower website.

It is unfortunate that it went down hill from there.

Tigger, if you are still there, I wish you all the best for your venture. I do not consider what you are doing to be out of the ordinary or risky if done carefully.
As Nobby demonstrated on the previous reply, it is a valid and commercially available option to chance over to TRBs.

Yes tigger got a little upset because of the comments of some, and lashed out a little to others who may not have deserved it, but this is what happens when a guy is dealt with unreasonably.

Tigger, I hope you will still hang around this forum. It is usually not like this. We are normally very friendly and helpfull.

All the best to you Tigger!!!

regards,
Matt