Bryce injection pump on my ST, help please

[roverjohn]

Never had this started but I'm sure it has sufficient compression to run as it takes off and runs along if any sort of oil is spritzed into the intake. I'm pretty confident that the fuel system is primed as I've pressurized the tank side with a primer pump and then bled all the bleeding points, multiple times. The motor is acting like the fuel shut off has been pulled but I don't see one to unpull. I'm curious as to how the injection pump should feel. There is a shaft running across the bottom of it that is about 3/8th inch in diameter. If you are looking at the bleed screw the shaft seems to be pushed to the right. The right side of the shaft isn't connected to anything but it has a pin through it that appears to prevent the shaft from pulling out through the pump if pulled to the left. The left side of the shaft is attached to the governor mechanism. The shaft rotates a little but seems locked from moving from the left or right but I dont know if it is the governor that's locked or the shaft. So,

1. Should I be able to move the shaft with finger pressure?
2. Shouldn't moving the control lever between OFF and Fast change the way the injection pump feels? They don't seem to connected except by a spring.

The ST doesn't seem to be designed to allow easy access to the governor as it appears that you have to remove the cover where the camshaft exits the engine. I don't mind doing this but if I'm just missing something simple I'll kick myself and move on.

Here's a pic:

and here's a direct link if I can't inbed pics:http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h263/johnsbmw/IMAG0198.jpg

Thanks in advance for any and all help.
John....

[roverjohn]

One more thing. In the picture you can see a lever that is pointed down in the pic. Behind the lever is an adjuster plate. There's a bolt above the lever to fix the adjustment. If you loosen that bolt the plate just moves freely as though it isn't connected to anything but then I don't know if it is supposed to be.
Thanks again, John

[barry100]

Hi Rover
Sounds like the the pump is stuck, the piston should rotate and the rod from the governer makes it turn (3/8?") it should be about 1/4" and be able to move with a finger pressure , if it's stuck it should be stripped and cleaned, but in the past I have been able to to take the delvery valve off (under injector pipe), turn the engine so the pump cam is at the bottom an tap the pump piston down then turn the engine to push the piston up again squirt of penitrating oil will help, be very gentle , clean and carefull not to damage anything
Barry

[roverjohn]

Thanks, that is what I'm thinking. I took the front cover off and it was pretty evident that the governor really doesn't have the power to move anything unless it's pretty easy to move. A diesel mechanic friend stopped by to look and immediately took a small screw driver and pried the rack back and forth and loosened it up. His suggestion was to heat the pump up with some radiant heat and just work it back and forth till it frees up. I'll try your idea too as a little cleaning wouldn't hurt. I'm really glad this thing didn't start as the rack was stuck in the full blast position so at least now I know which way to shove the thing if it tries to over rev.
John

[Tom]

The rack was sticky on my roid a few weeks ago, it had been sitting with WVO blend in the injector all summer. I ran a bit of acetone in the fuel and it freed right up.

[roverjohn]

Barry and Tom, Thanks. A few days of finger work, heat, and acetone and now my rack slides back and forth with easy finger pressure. Now I can see how the governor functions with such small inputs. I had to destroy the front cam seal to put the front cover back on because the "oil fling" ring can't be put back on the cam shaft before the cover is in place. I should have the new $5 seal tomorrow and I'll be ready to start cranking again. The old seal was leather. Pretty crazy as I don't think leather seal have been available for a couple of decades. I'm probably the first person to remove the front cover since someone assembled it in England. I was pretty impressed by how nice everything looked inside being painted orange and all. The crank and cam gear gears had zero apparent wear and I could not feel any end play in the crank or cam. The cam actually had quite a bit of play in and out, maybe an 1/8", which kind of surprised me but I don't know how it's retained so I'm going to ignore it. I should have more news as to whether or not it runs after the weekend.
Wish me luck, John.....

[roverjohn]

Yes! It runs like a champ. I wont say it purrs as it really just kind of hammers but in a smooth kind of way. The gen shows it's putting out 120 volts but the wiring doesn't allow anything to be plugged in so load testing will wait for the weekend. I'm pretty psyched. 48psi oil pressure at 1800rpm, no major leaks, and after changing the oil and filter 30 minutes at no load and the oil looks just like I put it in, which I did. So far I think my $150 was pretty well spent. I really really need to spend some time on noise and vibration control as the generator frame is made of steel and just sitting on my garage floor so I think I've heard the worst noises it'll ever make.

[Tom]

Congratulations on bringing another dead one back to life!

[roverjohn]

Thanks.

[roverjohn]

I ran it last night for 1 hour with a 2200watt load on the genny with no apparent problems at all. You could kind of tell when the 1500 watt load was switched on and off but just barely. No smoke and it didn't seem to loose any RPM's. I'm going to keep adding load until it starts smoking. My VOM only reads KHz which is really kind of useless so I really can't monitor it that well. It held voltage perfectly though. It does seem to be weeping a little oil in the head area which I'm hoping is coming from the top cap as it will be a pretty easy fix.