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Author Topic: Chasing a suspicious engine knock.  (Read 7866 times)

Stan

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Re: Chasing a suspicious engine knock.
« Reply #15 on: April 18, 2008, 03:00:25 AM »
I'm waaay out of my comfort zone on this one, but for the education of the newly lister'dd, aren't the bushings a two part construction, a base metal and then coated with something else so you aren't supposed to scrape them?  Not sure, just perked my curiosity when you said you scraped yours and a few stray brain cells fired way out in left field there. (must have been those post 1960's cells  ::)
Stan

oliver90owner

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Re: Chasing a suspicious engine knock.
« Reply #16 on: April 20, 2008, 08:10:27 PM »
Stan,

Years back, they scraped everything.  Modern bearings are made to tight tolerance.  Should be no need to scrape.  Scraping is good for around 80+% contact area.  I have no bothers with scraping bearings.  There is enough metal on these bearings.  I have no idea if mine was -10 when it started.  I have a -20 set and would not worry if I needed to machine it for a standard crank.  You worry too much.  These engines were built long before the throw away age.  Yes the modern day 'Lister' owner might be worried about how to keep enough spares on hand for all possible future failures.  i am not one of them.

I would have poured some new bearings but I only have white metal suitable for spark ignition engines (less tin and antimony).  I think there are quite a few CS engines (on show) that have bronze or brass  home-made bearings fitted in them.  My tractor manuals say to just remove shims to keep clearances within spec as the bearings wear.  So OK untill crank ovality is the problem.

There are other things to be careful of - like keeping the bearing straight, and lining up the three bearing crank mains.  I have not come across any five main bearing cranks on scraped metal bearings but I would think there are a few.  The good old Fordson standard tractors  had their bearings poured into the block.   No particular problem to re-white metal them these days - they are usually line bored - far easier and much quicker than scraping. 

The biggest problem is geting the corrrect alloy and making sure it stays homogeneous during the pouring stages.  More to it than meets the eye but not too difficult when you understand all the pitfalls.  Once you have suitable jigs for a particular job they are easily repeated with just model engineering type lathes and milling  machines.

And if I can't do it my local foundryman will help out for a ssuitable fee.  like I say, you worry too much.  These engines were designed in an age when this type of repair was normal.

Regards, RAB