Piping exhaust outside, safe options needed

[clytle374]

Couple of things:

Lister make recommendations about pipe sizes and distances for engines that are piped to the outside, both for exhaust and for cooling air if air cooled.

Swept 2" bends are readily available over here in the UK, material is quite decent but they are seamless or welded tube that has been machined, not castings, so quite light. Bigger stuff is also available.

The JP cast silencers are a thing to behold, they are 'huge' and effectively a big expansion chamber. We have a couple sitting outside, but they have been shot blasted and Zinc sprayed before powder coating so the weather doesn't affect them.

Lister silencers, cooling tanks and radiators are all in the Lister Data section of the website.

Peter

I'm using 2" for about 7' total including the muffler. Being a 16/1 not sure if those would be big enough. 
Where on the website?  I get the feeling I've been missing out on something!

[rcavictim]

More advancements, more snags.



I have I experimental expansion tank I made, I haven't tried it since the pipe was stuck in the muffler from clamping it too tight(it was leaking).


Thought the swirling exhaust might help scavange the cylinder, might be worse than nothing.  Free materials minus gas and filler.  I'm going to try it between the engine and muffler replacing the lower 90Deg elbow with it.

Am I correct in assuming that the exhaust input from the engine is the curved pipe welded to the perimeter of the freon bottle?  I like it!  How was the opening of this curved pipe made inside the bottle.  Is it merely an open end, or did you open a seam lengthwise in this curved pipe on the inside of the radius?  I think I would be tempted to experiment with a seam in the shape of a Vee that starts as a slit that opens gradually as the exhaust continues to the end of the sweep.  In loudspeaker design parlance this would be known as a Karlson Slot Coupler.  Me thinks it could further reduce noise while decreasing backpressure on the engine.

[diesel guy]

I found this: 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320191016622&ssPageName=MERC_VIC_RCRX_Pr2_PcY_BID_IT&refitem=320185956655&itemcount=2&refwidgetloc=closed_view_item&usedrule1=CrossSell_LogicX&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget

Maybe the design could be helpful to someone.

Diesel Guy

[rcavictim]

I found this: 

Maybe the design could be helpful to someone.

Diesel Guy

Yeah, that crisp 90 degree bend in the exhaust pipe right out of the engine is a very good design  not  if you want to build back pressure which diesels don`t like.  Then the design of the heat exchanger is clearly such to facilitate mechanical cleanout of the accumulated carbon soot and oil residue.  Well actually no mention of this serious problem is mentioned by the builder/seller.  caveat emptor!

[clytle374]

I got lucky and the outside of the pipe bend matched the radius of the tank.  I cut and trimmed the pipe to lay against the tank as seen in the picture.  Then cut the tank open to match it, and welded it on.  The outlet on top is flush welded to the tank.

The curved opening it the input.  Thinking about doing the same on the output. 

[Doug]

Someone actulay payed 175 pounds for that?

I'm in the wrong racket!

[clytle374]

Someone actulay payed 175 pounds for that?

I'm in the wrong racket!

Place your orders now, I'm tooling up for production.  I even include my pat pending inlet and outlet.

Of course all sales final, unlimited hot water may take unlimited time,  paint may be toxic and discolor, payment due in full at time of order, 6-8 years for delivery, must be cleaned daily, cleaning kit sold separately(only $200US), ect, ect.

 :)I'm gonna be rich

[rbodell]

I found this: 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320191016622&ssPageName=MERC_VIC_RCRX_Pr2_PcY_BID_IT&refitem=320185956655&itemcount=2&refwidgetloc=closed_view_item&usedrule1=CrossSell_LogicX&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget

Maybe the design could be helpful to someone.

Diesel Guy

Yeah, but for somebody without the welder, knowledge and a new tank (it is new), it is a bargain. Like they say, a product is only worth what somebody is willing to pay for it. One person thought 175 P was a bargain.

I wonder, does anybody know how much power is lost with that sharp 90 degree in the exhaust?


Holy crap bat man .....  take an old bottle, poke 4 holes in it and weld a few bits of pipe on and you have something that will plug up nicely and brings you 175 POUNDS or about $350 US. It's like printing money ......
Oh, forgot, you also have to supply a bit of paint and a couple of brackets.

Unbelievabe ....

Jens

[jzeeff]

Whatever you do, get a carbon monoxide alarm.

[listerdiesel]

I'm using 2" for about 7' total including the muffler. Being a 16/1 not sure if those would be big enough. 
Where on the website?  I get the feeling I've been missing out on something!

Exhausts are here:

http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/ListerData/exhaust.htm

Radiators are here:

http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/ListerData/cooltech.htm

and here:

http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/ListerData/radtech.htm

and yet more here:

http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/ListerData/radtech2.htm

I found a couple or errors on the site after the big move-round a month or so ago, and these pages were not working properly, but should be fine now.

Peter

[clytle374]

Whatever you do, get a carbon monoxide alarm.

I have one. 
Can carbon monoxide from a diesel really sneak up on you?  I start crying long before before the detector goes off.

[Doug]

CO from diesels not as bad as SI engines.

The Stink from the engine is clear warning that fumes are building up....

You can buy CO monitors from the same place you get smoke detectors.

Idealy you want some thing that alarms around 35 ppm ( that in most countries is around the Upper exposer limit for 12 hours )

[Grael]

What I would do for getting the exhaust through a wood wall is, take a non insulated stove pipe, then get a cap to close off one end, then take the cap and make a hole in it just big enough to fit the exhaust pipe through. Then cut a hole in the wall big enough to fit the pipe through. Kinda like this:

                    !Wall
                    !
                 -----------Stove pipe
  Cap-->___!______________
           ------------------------------ <--- Exhaust Pipe
      Cap--> !
                 -----------Stove pipe
                    !
                    !Wall
Ok, I suck at key-board drawings, just use your imagination

[clytle374]

What I would do for getting the exhaust through a wood wall is, take a non insulated stove pipe, then get a cap to close off one end, then take the cap and make a hole in it just big enough to fit the exhaust pipe through. Then cut a hole in the wall big enough to fit the pipe through. Kinda like this:

                    !Wall
                    !
                 -----------Stove pipe
  Cap-->___!______________
           ------------------------------ <--- Exhaust Pipe
      Cap--> !
                 -----------Stove pipe
                    !
                    !Wall
Ok, I suck at key-board drawings, just use your imagination

Not bad art, I would call it ASCII-CAD sounds more professional that way.   
Thats pretty much what I did.  Except I capped both ends one with vent holes, helps hold and center the pipe.   Then the triple wall pipe is good for 2100F, overkill but other wise I probably wouldn't sleep much.

[jzeeff]

I would  worry about carbon monoxide if you were sleeping or burning something very clean like nat gas.