Author Topic: removing injector (Read 5033 times)

contaucreek · « **on:** September 23, 2007, 09:33:31 PM »

Ok so on my 6/1 you just undo fuel line and remove the 2 nuts off the studs then lift off the hold down plate then what?? Is it to lift out or unscrew?? Didnt want to force anything so...

Stan · « **Reply #1 on:** September 23, 2007, 09:39:14 PM »

On Penelope it had rusted tight in there. I worked on it for a month or so and finally it came out. I had the engine dissassembled so I couldn't use the compression trick. Loosen the 2 nuts holding the hold down plate down A FEW TURNS ONLY, turn her over a couple of times and then add compression. It should pop loose if your karma is positive

Stan

contaucreek · « **Reply #2 on:** September 23, 2007, 11:02:25 PM »

Thanks Stan.Thought about that but didnt know if that would work as my drawings didnt show if it was threaded or not,thanks,will try. Paul.

Stan · « **Reply #3 on:** September 24, 2007, 03:29:23 AM »

I"ve never heard of one that was threaded (maybe Peter could say for sure) but even if it was threaded, the compression pop method wouldn't hurt it I imagine.
You can sort of tell it couldn't be threaded if it can't turn. Those 2 bolts could be removed with 2 nuts as they are just studs, but it still wouldn't turn because of the notch in the head. When I was trying to figure out if it was threaded in (and mine was REALLY stuck) I thought you might have to dissassemble the injector right in place but that wouldn't work either.
I almost considered reassembling Penelope just to get the injector out.

Stan

listerdiesel · « **Reply #4 on:** September 24, 2007, 08:22:54 AM »

None of the Lister injectors are threaded into the head, and as most foilks find out, if water gets in the injector hole then it can rust in quite badly, always a good idea to apply the oilcan around the injector body occasionally.

Very early Lister CS engines had a water-cooled injector, with coolant around the bottom of the body and O rings for seals.

I have already posted engine numbers for this information.

Two small pry bars and something to protect the machined top face of the block is usually enough to get them out, but as Stan says, they can be well stuck!

Peter

contaucreek · « **Reply #5 on:** September 24, 2007, 10:49:44 PM »

Thanks guys

Flyingpony · « **Reply #6 on:** October 18, 2007, 12:43:27 AM »

* the penny drops *

I've always wondered how to get a stuck injector out.

Thanks

ronmar · « **Reply #7 on:** October 18, 2007, 09:03:50 PM »

And don't loose the copper washer that the injector sets/seals on down in the hole...

Ron

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