Lister Engines > Listeroid Engines
Ashwemagh 6/1 inspection
Reno Speedster:
Well, I got inside my Ashwemagh 6/1 today with the digital camera and it looks pretty good. I don't see any obvious signs of casting sand but I plan on pulling it apart to be sure. The red paint in the crank case looks like it was slapped on by hand an in a hurry (lots of missed spots in the top of the case) but, from what I can see the cam and the lifters look to have a proper finish and the cylinder wall and the timing gears look fine. It is destined for a working life powering a 5kw generator out on my ranch so I want to make sure that it is 100% before it goes to work. I'm waiting to tear it down until I get the valve guide puller from george. He is also sending me a kit for the injector rack which is supposed to make a big improvement when running a generator (not quite sure what it is actually but it was cheap). Now if the rain would just let up so I can pour the concrete slab for the power house. Take care all.
Morgan
quinnf:
Morgan,
Good on ya, Mate! I think my engine was painted by the same guy who didn't want the paint to drip on his hands. Those "holidays" are where I found loose casting sand, so whoever cleaned up the casting might have not bothered to lay it on its side. The corners of the casting under the deck that were paint-free were where I found the sand. Just poke at them with a screwdriver to see if the bumps are casting flashing or sand. And definitely check out the wrist pin, too.
While it's apart, you can clean the gaskets and coat them with silicone gasket cement and hang them up to dry. That way next time you take the engine apart you won't damage them, and I think they seal better, too.
My lifters came out very easily with a pair of vice grips with an old rag wrapped around the lifters.
Please clue us in on what the governor kit consists of. George might have found a spring with better actioin than the stock one. If so, I want to get one.
Another thing you can do is to pull the oiling hole cover over the back end of the camshaft (left side of engine when facing the pushrod side). I drilled a 3/32" hole in the cap and pressed in and epoxied a 16 gauge nail to direct any oil into the camshaft oil hole, though after seeing how much oil gets thrown around, I don't really think it was really necessary.
Quinn
Reno Speedster:
Good ideas Guinn. I'd Like to pull the engine down to the bare case and have it hot tanked and preassure washed to make sure its clean then give it a coat of real red glyptol (instead of the house paint (?) used by the Indians). I don't quite understand the arrangement on the end of the camshaft but I want to make sure that its getting enough oil. I have an old drip oiler laying arround maybe I could install it to insure enough oil to that bearing? I'll let you know what the kit is when it comes (it was shipped yesterday). I took off the water outlets and was surprised how small the openings are (they are blocked with casting flash) so I'm going to open them up with a die grinder.
Morgan
Reno Speedster:
I took the time to pull the head and the cylinder this morning and found a problem. One of the "curclips" that keep the wrist pin in was broken and the broken part was floating in the end of the wrist pin. Not to bad but there seems to be two pits in the cylinder wall possibly from the broken part (they are about at TDC for the wrist pin and right where I found the "floating" part. The pin can not move and there is no scoreing in the cylinder per say but I'm not thrilled. I need to get it in better light to see how bad the pits are. Interestingly, there is no cross hatching visible in the cylinder so it has been run for a while or it was not properly honed, again more light needed. Otherwise it looks OK, a little rust on the face of the piston and inside of the head (very light) and evidence if a slight water leak in the head gasket into one of the stud galleries (Light rust on the stud at the head gasket). Will pull the piston and Rod a bit later and check on them. Time to send a note to George about the availability of cylinder sleaves.
Morgan
quinnf:
Morgan,
Too bad about the circlip. That's why it's good to tear these engines apart. You can also make sure that the ring end gaps are staggered when you reassemble the beast.
For comparison sake, attached is a pic I took of my bore so you can check it against the way yours looks.
Now let's see if this pic appears in my message. Wish me luck. Push the button, Max!
Quinn
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