Metro 6/1 Improvemsnts

[Rick Rowlands]

My Metro 6/1 arrived today.  I have already started the teardown and now have a few questions for everyone.  Pictures here:
http://news.webshots.com/album/556987895oyxSje

What improvements should i make to the engine while it is apart?  Should I replace the Indian tapered roller bearings with Timkens?  If so, anyone know the bearing number?

Where can I get a new high pressure fuel line?  The Metro one looks cheap and I have heard they give problems. 

What other improvements should I consider? 

I ordered a new set of gaskets from a fellow who advertises on the forum.  I don't plan to reuse the Metro gaskets.  Utterpower has a tappet replacement program. I am planning to take advantage of that.

I have a couple of I beams which will become the main frame for the genset.  The frame wil lbe bolted to a concrete base that I'll pour in the spring.

[DREW]

hi rick
      nice pictures,  i am still in the tear down stage myself. just make sure all the sand (if any) is removed and all tappet, cam lobes crank, wrist pin surfaces are polished. i will also be painting the inside with glyptal. i did read someone who put the timken roller bearing number on the forum, i believe it was hotater. please keep the pictures comming,  i have such a busy work schedule that i do not get much time to work and photograph my own motor. good luck with your projects.
                                                                 drew

[hotater]

Rick--

The TRBs could be the best part of an Indian engine.  No problems from mine in a VERY dirty engine that was new 72500 hours ago.

The fuel system from the tank filler neck to the injector pump should be re-done with a remote tank, good filter, and good fittings and hose.  I'm using cross link poly tubing and like it so-far.  The high pressure lines usually are good...your's are MUCH better *looking* than normal.

The tappet faces are *probably* not square with the shank. I hold mine vertical in a Vee block and surface grind the faces.  It works.

Use a common (but very accurate) square and a good level to check the parralality of the deck to the crank and deck to the top of the block and piston will assure the piston is running up and down a vertical hole.

Did you get George's CD yet?   Evidently not if you're asking what to do.     

[Rick Rowlands]

I have George's CD.  Got it yesterday.    I'm still printing out the Listeroid Longevity pdf. 

I am mainly concerned about aftermarket parts that might be available.

Thanks

[MikeyT]

Rick--

The TRBs could be the best part of an Indian engine.  No problems from mine in a VERY dirty engine that was new 72500 hours ago.

Hotater

Is that 72500 or 7250?

[hotater]

Drop a zero.   I kicked into 'goverment mode' there.   
7250 hours on MT-I
691 hours on   MT-II

[mactoollover2005]

 Hotater
         I was reading about your adventure in off grid living when u noticed your mt-1 started knocking? what went wrong  with it.
 thanks , keep up the good work and i enjoy reading about your experiences. best of luck to you.
Derek

[hotater]

the knocking continued for a month and I used four upper bearing shells in that time....it was VERY complicated to finally figure out, but in the process I sure learned a lot.

In the final analysis it was the fuel pump tappet and nut that stripped enough to make the tappet jump as much as three threads.  When it advanced it knocked and tore up rod bearings, when it retarded it carboned up and stopped due to a 'cinder' catching on the exhaust valve.
  I made another tappet to repair it.

[WWIProps]

Check the crank carefully.  My first Metro 6/1 had an absolutely silly, out of round grind on the rod journal.  The second one broke the crank.  2/3 of the metal in the break area was very pourous from improper casting.  I just haven't been inclined to put another Metro crank in for $250.00 plus the hassel of removing the flywheels.

[Rick Rowlands]

I used to be in the foundry business so if my crankshaft broke I would be inclined to have a new one cast and machined.  Probably wouldn't cost more over $250.00.

I checked my tappets for squareness today and one is within .002 while the other is out .009.  That one has a scar on the tappet surface and is the one that was not rotating.  So its going to be trued up next week.  I don't know how I will do it yet as I have 3 options.

[WWIProps]

Rick Rowlands,

Do you want to get a couple made?  My concern is not so much the money but spending the money for a poorly cast piece that is just going to give me the same problem again.

Scott

[okiezeke]

Rick,
A couple of ideas for you,  George (utterpower) sells a idler timing gear that folks have said good things about.  Xyzer has drilled oil dippers that improve rod bearing oiling.  At least three places(George, Mike M, and rocky mtn power) sell thermostat mounts.  Mike M. and prob. others are making elect start gears.  I hope xyzer will make some more offset idler gear bolts.  Lots of goodies for improving the engines.
Zeke

[Rick Rowlands]

I might be able to make the offset bolt if I knew what it looked like.  I haven't taken the idler gear off to check. 

I'll follow up on a couple of your suggestions.

[hotater]

Rick--

The idler pinion position and alignment seems to be causing a lot of trouble.  You might research the topic here and do some measuring.
  You can pull the pinion out by locating the crank at BDC, remove the nut from the pinion shaft.  (Look for the center drill in the apparent TRB cap at the top of the fuel pump side...thats' the pinion)  You can then slip the shaft and the idler gear out of the engine.  As long as the cam and crank aren't disturbed the gear can be removed and replaced without affecting timing.

[asavage]

I might be able to make the offset bolt if I knew what it looked like. 

xyzer drew this, in this thread:



Reading further on, he may have modified this design for an offset idler bolt.