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Author Topic: gaskets/seals for 6/1  (Read 5510 times)

getterdone

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gaskets/seals for 6/1
« on: January 15, 2007, 05:04:23 AM »
well, take your engine apart your self to clean casting sand. i wont disclose how much i paid to have this done. didn't think i had the time. well guess what happened after 140hours of run time? stupid...is the first word that comes to mind sucker another. last but not least never,never again will this happen to me. any way thank God, that one crank bearing was all that was ruined. by the way crank bearings cost 70some odd $ .                                                                      now, i'm asking for some help, from all of you. could you point me in the right direction to buy a gasket set and also the crank oil seals? i also need to know how to load the tapered crank bearings. any one that takes pitty on me and can supply me with this info , this would be nice!  email or post or both j.ossowski@yahoo.com

Joe

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Re: gaskets/seals for 6/1
« Reply #1 on: January 15, 2007, 02:23:26 PM »
Roughly, what part of the world are you in?
Do you have George B's CD?
Anything can be fixed ....
Nothing is easy...

Joe
Nothing is easy...if it were...anybody could do it.

2005 Power Solutions  6/1-ST5

getterdone

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Re: gaskets/seals for 6/1
« Reply #2 on: January 15, 2007, 05:15:48 PM »
yes, i have george's cd's. i live in decatur, illinois. u.s.
« Last Edit: January 15, 2007, 07:23:42 PM by johnny ossowski »

biobill

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Re: gaskets/seals for 6/1
« Reply #3 on: January 15, 2007, 09:54:13 PM »
Johnny O
  Sam Crosby sells Metro brand gasket kits that include the crank seals.  207-522-9268. If he is out, let me know. I have a spare set that I might be persuaded to part with.
                                                            Bill
Off grid since 1990
6/1 Metro DI living in basement, cogen
6/1 Metro IDI running barn & biodiesel processer
VW 1.6 diesels all over the place
Isuzu Boxtruck, Ford Backhoe, all running on biodiesel
Needs diesel lawnmower & chainsaw

Joe

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Re: gaskets/seals for 6/1
« Reply #4 on: January 15, 2007, 11:19:55 PM »
Call George

Joe
Nothing is easy...if it were...anybody could do it.

2005 Power Solutions  6/1-ST5

Doug

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Re: gaskets/seals for 6/1
« Reply #5 on: January 15, 2007, 11:34:10 PM »
Why not just take the old seal to a bearing suplier and have it matched?
With the exception of head gaskets everything you can make easy enough.

I bought a set with Gus to use a a template....

Doug

ronmar

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Re: gaskets/seals for 6/1
« Reply #6 on: January 16, 2007, 03:27:33 AM »
My guess would be a burnt-up TRB from too much bearing pre-load?   That is unfortunate. 

You can buy bulk gasket material in just about any auto parts store.  I think it cost me less than $5 to get enough to make all my gaskets in several different thicknesses 1/16"(.062") 1/32" (.031") and 1/64"(.015). That and about an hour or two with a exacto knife and scisors cutting out the new gaskets.  I traced outlines from the best surviving original gaskets or from the housings/coverplates directly onto the new gasket material. If I need a thinner shim, that material can be found also, but I find that manilla business envelopes are good for about .005"

The different thicknesses allowed me to mix and match for proper spacing of the TRB housings to achieve the proper shaft endplay when the bearing carriers are torqued in place.  Mine came with about .090" worth of gaskets total under the TRB housings(2 under one housing and three under the other).  I had to almost double this thickness to get the proper endplay(.005"-.008").  You will need a dial indicator and clamp bar to set this up properly.  It is then just a matter of stacking gaskets under the housings to get the proper end play and of course make sure you don't cause any interferences inside such as the crank touching the idler gear.  Like wheel bearings some can do it pretty good by feel, but I prefer having a number I can compare to at a later maintenance check.  On the Utterpower website, under the kit engine review Quinn F goes into setting up the preload a little bit. 

Mine was delivered so tight, I couldn't hardly roll the crankshaft by hand trying to twist the bare shaft.  I had to put on the "V" belt pulley to turn it.  It would have required additional gaskets even if I hadn't damaged so many of them during disassembly(painted in place).  As soon as I loosened the nuts on one carrier, the crank that was setting near TDC rolled by itself to BDC under the force of gravity.

A 0-6" dial caliper and a 0-1" dial indicator and clamp bar are pretty handy for measuring dimensions, checking runout, endplay and finding other critical measurments such as TDC and valve opening/cam position.  If you don't have these tools, some workable versions can be had for not much money at harbor freight tools.

As Doug said, you should be able to carefully knock out the old seal and get it matched fairly easilly at a bearing supply house. Or you can use the above mentioned dial caliper to measure the shaft(2"?) and measure the hole the seal is driven into(?") and take those numbers into the bearing supply house.

Good Luck

Ron
PS 6/1 - ST-5.

getterdone

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Re: gaskets/seals for 6/1
« Reply #7 on: January 16, 2007, 05:40:44 PM »
thanks to : biobill,joe,doug,ronmar. i am greatful for all that responded. and joe i did email george. i didnt get a email back yet. i just called sam and left a call back number so i'll wate to hear from him. i do have a mike, and dial indcator with base i will use thease to load bearings. i also have gasket cutting tools, and will make them if i have to. i've checked the bearing supplyer and they couldn't match the seals. i've heard i could re use my headgasket. i'd call george but i don't have his phone number. hope sam returns my call soon. in the mean time cleaning parts to get it back togeather, and back off the [ grid]. i built a biodiesel reactor and using fuel that i make to power a 24v,95amp alternator this works perty good. and have a trace 36/24 inverter. i dont have a sd generator head yet. that trace has it's own charger built in. for now i just charge batt bank direct. i wish some one sold sd heads around hear so i could save money on shipping. let me know if any one in my area sales thease. central illinois. i think running a sd head would be more effecient, cause the batt bank would be charged while also suppling power. any way that's the way the trace inverter works. and ronmar, too much pre-loading wasn't the problem, casting sand in the bearing cover was. i scraped out plenty. like i said do your own work and you won't be disadified with others.
« Last Edit: January 16, 2007, 05:57:15 PM by johnny ossowski »

Quinnf

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Re: gaskets/seals for 6/1
« Reply #8 on: January 16, 2007, 06:03:26 PM »
Spec. in manuals calls for 0.005" to 0.010" crankshaft end runout.  Adjust using paper shims behind the TRB caps.  Once everything's torqued down you should be able to grab the crankshaft and it should turn easily with a just perceptable movement along the crankshaft axis and an audible "clunk" sound.  Both my 6/1s came way too tight.  TRBs for 6/1s are Timken part no. 32211M90KM1 available anywhere.  Seals should be common as dirt with 2.000" I.D.  Be sure to lube the crankshaft and seal lip when you reassemble because almost no oil makes it past the TRBs to lube that seal. 

Quinn
Ashwamegh 6/1, PowerSolutions 6/1 "Kit" engine, and a Changfa R175a that looks like a Yanmar I once knew