Lovson 20-2

[hotater]

Zeke---

BEWARE!  The chances of the valve being bent is VERY slim.  They can't bend in the engine since the piston is flat and the valve is square with it and if just the stem were bent they wouldn't fit in the guides.
 Turn the head so the valve faces are up and dribble fuel in the recess and see if it leaks past the valve.  I bet it doesn't.

ALL it takes to do a valve job is a little grinding paste on the valves and an electric screwdriver to turn the valve.  Grind three seconds, stop, lift and rotate the valve about ninety degrees and lap for three more seconds.  By the time you've turned the valve four times you're done.

Set-up of the rocker pads to the lash caps IS important.

http://www.utterpower.com/jack_belk.htm

There's a link there for my picture pages that shows this setup and valve lapping.   I think there's a discussion of it on this site, too.

CLEAN the valve guides WELL.   I    HIGHLY reccomend an "UNCLE MIKE'S  BORE SNAKE"  to clean valve guides.   Get one for a 44 Mag pistol (.429 bore).  Drop the little weight through the guide and pull it through.  It has two bronze bore brushes and the equivilent of one HUNDRED cleaning patches in ONE pull.   Its' as close to a cleaning miracle as I've ever seen.    (no affiliation, yada yada).....but I DO own a couple dozen of them.

For those with 11mm guides in the 6-1 engines, get the  41 Mag Bore Snake.  (.410 bore)

When it gets so dirty the benifits are doubtfull, put the Snake inside a sock and wash it.  (with other clothes is OK, if not being watched closely).

[Doug]

I found two of three sets of my valve guides were machined a little too slack. I don't have the figuere handy here but I noticed the contact patch on the seat didn't look right. One side was wider than the other, a trip to the machine shop turned up the problem was the centering tool used at the works was a sloppy fit to the guide.

Perhaps this sort of thing is also happening the Listers and explains the "Bent Valve" ?

Petters don't use the stem cap arangement the listers do but another problem that others have noted ( mine have this problem two is piss poor machining onthe valvle spring retainer and keepers.

http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4457933

Maybe some of this is of help....

Note:
I don't know who made my valve and lifters but they seem well made....

Doug

Later after thinking....

I remember a problem That Wisconsin Robbin engine shad in the 1980's. The valve had a heat treating issue and the stems on some actualy had a warp. You could pick these bad one out because the tip of the stem was soft and you had to run a file on them to get the keeper apart just to remove the valve. When you chucked one of these valves in a grinder and tried to regrind them they showed an obvious warp.
I don't know if these valves were warped from new and caused the oil consumption problem and wiered wear or if it was the heat that made them get get bent out of shape but I got replacements from Teledyne and the problem was solved ( these were EY-18 EY-27 and EY-27 series engines, I wonder why I remeber these numbers after 20 years but can't find my keys )

Doug

[dkwflight]

Hi If you get something way out so the valve hits the piston in a lister, The valve WILL bend.
Ask me, I know.
Dennis

[okiezeke]

Hotater,Doug,
I'm glad the valves aren't likely to be bent.  I know a hand drill chuck is far from a precision tool, so it wouldnt surprise me if what I saw as a wobble was  due to lack of better equipment.    The idea of a bore brush is a winner.  I'll look around for that brand, likely can buy on the net somewhere.    I'm beginning to understand why folks who own machine shops are attracted to listeroids.  This is the first engine that I've completely taken apart.  between utterpower CD and the good folks here it all looks familiar and doable.
Zeke

[Doug]

If I owned a machine shop mine would be in a running state right now.
If I owned a machine shop I would probably be building another right now, an have crate full of parts to build another and another and another....

Then my wife would devorce me.

Then I'd probably start trying to build a wife.

Doug

[hotater]

http://www.eabco.com/BorSnake.html

[agroot]

A better check would be to roll the valve stems on a flat plate.  I bought a granite plate at Lee Valley Tools.  Most places that carry mackine tools will have them, and they are relatively cheap.

If your engine came with spare valves, check these as a comparison. If the valves are bent, the engine was probably assembled without properly aligning the timing gears.  When it was turned, the valves would have contacted the pistons, bending them. Check your valve guides as well.  These too, will sometimes bend. 

[hotater]

Dennis--
 How did you bend a valve?    Carbon buildup, maybe that jammed the stem in the guide?

I've had  'interferrence fits' with the piston and it egged the rocker bushing and loosened the rocker shaft mount.

[SHIPCHIEF]

A valve may look bent, but be OK.
The heads on valves are sometimes 'not true' to the stem.
Still, the seating surface is ground on, and the valve is good.
So put the stem on a flat surface and roll it slowly while looking at the valve seat face of the valve head. It should be true even if the rest of the head looks like it's wobbling around as you roll it.
Then again, these are from 'Injah', so you never know what you got until you take it apart and check it.
Scott E

[okiezeke]

Scott,
This is exactly what I have.  The head of the valve is not true, but they seat fine.  The wobble I saw is really there, but fortunately not a problem.  Made my gib key puller today, used some 1/2" bolts I had laying around.  A soon as I put some tension on the key the bolts bent like wet noodles.  Guess grade 2 dont hack it.  I'll get some grade 8 in the AM and try again.
Zeke

[Doug]

I used 5/16 NF bolts and 1/4 plate. It pulled well with enough strength to sheard the head of the key if it hadn't broke free...

http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4159569

Doug

[okiezeke]

Doug,
I used 1/2" plate with 4,  1/2" bolts evenly spaced around the shaft.  Sure had fun drilling and filing, etc.  I notice the bolts in your photo are grade 8 and fine thread.  Thats what I'm going to get in the AM.  If it works I'll take pictures.
Zeke

[Doug]

Briefly considered going to a thicker plate....

But looking at the key and decided anything bigger would just be better at taring appart kib head keys.

The fine thread offer a bit more strength and a little more finesse as I torqued.

The big puller for removing the fly wheel is 1/2 plate with 5/8 NF thread. It pulled great too, the choice of bolts was bad because I had to add and remove washers for spacing. I've made a new bolt now a full thread 5/8 NF 5 1/2 inch incase I ever need to use it again.

[okiezeke]

Another excitimg day,
The gib key puller worked as advertised.  The engine is now totally disassembled.  The local machine shop will check the crank for straightness and balance, and tank all the castings.  I need to get to work cleaning everything else.  I usually use diesel for parts cleaning, but momma doesnt like the smell.  Is there anything else that works as well??
Zeke

[hotater]

Zeke--

Ask you local oil dealer for a five gallon can of odorless Stoddard's solvent.  That's the stuff parts washers have in it.  You can filter it and re-use for a LONG time.