Author Topic: DIY Oil testing  (Read 2709 times)

Doug

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DIY Oil testing
« on: October 24, 2006, 01:50:17 AM »
A fellow form NZ named Doug Williams has been working at producer gas for some time now and in the 70's he sold a toilet paper oil filter. He also has some very simple tests I thought might be of interests...

http://www.fluidynenz.250x.com/

look at the left menu and scroll down to "Producer Gas Engine Oil and Soot"

Could be of value to some here.

Doug

Doug

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Re: DIY Oil testing
« Reply #1 on: October 27, 2006, 04:04:48 AM »
Doug Williams just posted this on another Forrum about gassification and the reason I'm reposting it here is because he's right. And what he talks about aplies to us in the roid comunity because our engines don't run hot enough to drive off water and alternative fuels can introduce all kinds of stuff to our oil just like producer gas......


Gasification] Tar on inlet valves
doug.williams Doug.Williams at orcon.net.nz
Thu Oct 26 16:00:07 CDT 2006

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Hi Ian, and Toby,

Sorry to see you getting mixed signals on this issue, but not every one has
the same experience with producer gas, due to the differing systems they
develop.

In the first instance, it is possible to make a gas that has no condensable
tars, and to do this you need to build a gasifier that has a tar cracking
throat, and a high temperature oxidation zone. The parameters are tight in
these designs if you want to fuel an engine. It begins with the actual fuel
to be used,either hardwood or softwood, which then determines the fuel size,
and how it might be prepared. You do have to do the work to get the results,
but first learn as much as you can before you start, as you do not have to
invent any thing, because that is where diversion from true gas making
evolves, and tar making begins. Study this free book, it's more than enough
to get you going.http://www.fao.org/DOCREP/T0512E/T0512e00.htm

You then have to build a gas cooler/condenser, filter system, to remove the
dust and water before you can use it in an engine. It is in these components
if present, that tar becomes a problem. You might filter the heavy tar, but
the pyrolysis oils will condense out when they hit the vacume of the engines
inlet manifold. Heating it will not remove the tar, and if you add air and
burn it, you just make CO2, and that will kill the ignition combustion. The
valve stems are very hot, and stay clear in the guides while moving. After
cooling, the tar baked onto the stem during the cooling phase, jambs the
guides, and the valve sticks. Usually it will bend the valve push rods,  and
possibly punch a hole in the piston crown.

Engine oil for producer gas is only a problem when you lack information, or
understanding of the controlling factors. Not many even understand normal
engine oil lubrication, so you will hear lot's of myths on this subject.
The best oil to select is one you would normally use in a heavy diesel
engine, bearing in mind that climatic conditions apply to the correct
viscocity.

To control contamination, you should seek out a oil by-pass filter that has
a toilet roll type element, but not pleated paper. These filters take out
the moisture as it appears, and retain the fine soot and particulates that
can act as a catalyst causing oil oxidation. The moisture is the main issue,
as this is the final ingreadient needed to form the acid, and that eats the
engine.
You can monitor oil condition using a simple " Filter Paper Test", even
without a filter, so you need never really endanger your engine using dirty
producer gas. You can read about all this on the Fluidyne Archive
www.fluidynenz.250x.com so you are not about to try something that is not
well and trully proven in commercial use. You might also consider building
the DIY gasifier that in it's smaller form, is very good to learn the "art"
of gas making. Others on this Forum can offer assistance if you ask, as
quite a few have been built in the last five years.

Hope this assists you to improve your understanding of gasification.
Doug Williams,
Fluidyne Gasification.



biobill

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Re: DIY Oil testing
« Reply #2 on: November 28, 2006, 08:11:43 PM »
   Now that's pretty neat. Just changed the oil when I installed xyzer's drilled dipper. Think I'll start a weekly oil test log just to see how it degrades.
                                           Bill
Off grid since 1990
6/1 Metro DI living in basement, cogen
6/1 Metro IDI running barn & biodiesel processer
VW 1.6 diesels all over the place
Isuzu Boxtruck, Ford Backhoe, all running on biodiesel
Needs diesel lawnmower & chainsaw