Powerline 10/1 inspection

[Doug]

If you do some research you will find the KOEL DM 10 meets this requirement already, or rather a varient can.

KOEL will not sell their Lister and Petter types in North America.

Exactly how the Petteroid has been modified to meet the requirements is proprietary information.
I am slowly building apart number list for the modified parts and Atul is also aware of some "Parts of Interests"

Doug

[mobile_bob]

good to see you dust yourself off and jump back in there

lets see you get er done

bob g

[Doug]

Game on Bob....

We're playing road apples heh heh heh.

Doug

[Doug]

I screwed around with the rear main bearing today and found out a few things....

First the bearing was installed correctly, but something that looks like Teflon tape was partial blocking the oil inlet.
When I ( gonna regret this... ) blew in the oil feed very little air would pass, but sucking a lot more air flowed.

A shot of compressed air fired a white stringy gob of something out the inlet fitting across the shed.

So this explains how the engine managed to run with an oil starvation problem and dirt but not actuly get hot enough to spin the bearing and burn anything out....

My best guess is durring the test run the oil line leaked and someone took it aprt and taped it. The fitting isn't very well flared so I can see how this might have happened.

Doug

[Doug]

Inside Gus:

http://www.putfile.com/dougwp/images/31565

Who was Gus?
Well this engine was renamed for a fellow who used to work where I work, and a song by the Hip.

I think the name is fitting.

Shine on Gus, enjoy your pension.
Buck up Gus the polar bear some day your roar will scar people again...

Doug

[Doug]

Hmm on closer inspection and consideration, I don't I don't want Gus to scar, rather scare lol...

And man the flash does bring out the dirt Gus suffered from doesn't it?

Started polishing the rear main bearing as you can see in the phots. Gus's crank and bearings are deeply messed up. But with advice from Jack and Bob, I'm trying polish up Crank 1....

The nest time Gus makes power it will be with factorty crank 1 and new bearings.
I also don't like Gus's 1 head and cylinder block, but I'm going to work around the trouble and try and make a runner of the factory parts. Gus has spares, lots of them to try and fix whats wrong, and if push comes to pull when the time comes I will order more spares from Anand, I want these issues corrected on the new parts!

Doug

[fattywagonman]

If you do some research you will find the KOEL DM 10 meets this requirement already, or rather a varient can.

KOEL will not sell their Lister and Petter types in North America.

Hi Doug
I looked for some info on this but came up empty handed... any links?

[Doug]

Follow the links at KOEL for the HA series, in sales crap is a short line about what engines are tier 1 compliant and the DM 10 and DM 20 are....

I don't have time to actualy look for link but its there.

Noticed my Cranks actualy have " DM10" stamped into the forging. But I don't believe these are KOEL cranks.

Doug

[Doug]

Been buisy pollishing out the suffs and marks on Gus's crank...

Its not easy, I bet I have about 6 hours into it now starting at 400 ( actualy went as coarse as 320 on the rear ) and working my way up to 1000 now. Many of the scratches and groves are well beyond fixing. I'm going to work up to the 1500 and call it a day.

Gus now needs some paint stripping on the crank case and a coat of paint before assembly can begin.

Doug

[Doug]

Gus needs bearings now although I remain concerned the crank is junk, I have a spare I just don't want to waste it in case Gus turns out too messed up to run reliably.

Somebody may need that crank around here someday...

On with the show.....

Any sugestions on how to get these bearings out?

http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4482323

I assumed they would come with some gentle beating with a blunt heavy object.
No but I did try and tap out the front main with a punch and a few taps from my big brass drift.

I email Powerline with pictures of everything asking for advice.
I suspect the Indians may press them out in the shop, in wich case I need to get yet another tool that will push the bearing out of the housing.

Another thing I have considered is peeling the bearing by nailing it with a smaller punch just one side to the seam between the two sides. a few good hits towards the center of the hole should colaps the bearing I suspect this might be the way it done in the field by some Indian mechanics.

In poses a new series if trials as well the new shell has a slight spring to it so I need to cook up some sort of piston ring compressor like jig to squeeze the bearing closed and round at the same time in order to press the new one in.

What the hell was I thinking?
Why did I blow my mad money onthis when I could have just bought an old Refer unit or something.....

Waiting on India now to tell me how they do this....

I'm going to upload more pictures of the bearing housing and the new bearings for all to see



Doug 

[mactoollover2005]

  Hi Doug, i do beleive that you have to heat the whole housing to a fairly hot temperature and while the housing is hot u need to cool off the bushing so it while slide out.
 Good luck
Derek

[Doug]

Thank you for the sugestion, its another thing I considered but I wanted some input

[hotater]

Doug-
  Get a bearing puller/slide wrench and make sure the fingers expand to catch all the lip it can....THEN pack the bearing in dry-ice and Coleman fuel (white gas) for about three minutes.  If it doesn't fall out, the wrench will pull it easily enough to not wreck it.  SAVE that bearing.  I don't think I 've had one that GOOD after a couple hours of running.

'Perfection' DOES have it's limit, ya know!   

Polish at an ANGLE....  If you shoe shine it it only gets smaller.  The grooves will always be there if you don't cross polish.

Just to keep your labor in perspective-- 



That job was about 12 hours from raw casting to 320.

All you're doing is 'glossing' the part, not 'polishing' with anything higher than 600 wet or dry that's worn plumb out.   You're also depleting your lifetime supply of elbow grease and will require zerks, soon.   

[Doug]

Jack I have cross polished it to the best of my ability.
The grooves you see are what I'm left with.

As a matter of fact I am all of elbo grease.....

But I've brought it down now to the point where the original grinding marks are about 60% polished out. The surface is as smooth as reasosnable.  cranks. I know theres no point to go too fine the steel and the bearing will find a point of equalibrium and thats how things brake in.

So slide hammer you say....

Dry Ice and Naptha. So pack the whole assembly in dry ice and emerse it in Naptha for about 3 minuts. Sounds like plan.

This bearing is scrap now Jack the other side has some dents in the face of the shell from trying to tap it out. I still have the two sets of spares and can get more so its no big loss.

Doug

[hotater]

There's NO SUCH THING as too many bearings, gaskets, and 'stuff'. 

With MT-I I pulled the shells and they were dark gray with sand and silicon carbide 'dust' from the piston grinding.  I chunked (Southern for 'flung') them on the bench along with bad gaskets and nasty stuff.  A year later those SAME bearings ran a thousand hours.
  Dented?  yes.  Grimy, gritty and scared up, too.   ANY new bearing can be made to work and ANY bearing is better than one with NO bearing metal left.

After you're gone the kids can throw away the REAL junk, but for now consider everything is a 'spare'.