Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
Engines / Re: Lister Manuals
« Last post by Luke.black on March 26, 2024, 07:57:17 AM »
Hi i've just joined. im from New Zealand . i have a late fifties HA2 generator set with less than 250 hrs runtime but has been sitting for 20 to thirty years in a building unused the fuel is not good i need to remove injectors and fuel injection pumps. so i need a workshop manual to help with repairs. if someone could help.
2
Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Re: Lister/Petter manuals on offer
« Last post by WILLHUX on March 25, 2024, 05:26:55 PM »
Hi
I am looking for a manual and parts breakdown for the HL, specifically HL-3 engines.

Thanks kindly

Will
3
Hi Bob,

I use google for the word "carcinogenic"  same with high power transmitting tubes and berilum in power transistors

I just bought 3x  1 fase rectifier bridge, deliver time 18 april (shown price is for one) (just before i read your reply ;D)

Ernie
4
Hi Ernie, looks good. I still recommend replacing that selenium rectifier with a modern silicon bridge rectifier. Selenium rectifiers deteriorate over time, if you are going to use the originals please watch out for a smell a bit like garlic, this will be coming from a failing rectifier and is extremely carcinogenic, don`t breath it in!

Bob
5
Hi Bob,

I hope i will work in grey as well  :D

Ernie
6
Hi Ernie, those resistors look to be in good condition. When I rebuilt my Lister generator I spray painted the resistors with a black exhaust manifold paint, looked good and stopped them from corroding.

Bob
7
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Bamford in a box
« Last post by ajaffa1 on March 23, 2024, 09:10:44 PM »
I would come and do the job for nothing, just for the opportunity to learn from the master. Sadly the commute from Tasmania might be a bit much.

Bob
8
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Bamford in a box
« Last post by 38ac on March 20, 2024, 08:05:38 PM »
Finally getting the Bamford back together after waiting for the crank grinder. I sold mine a few years ago, wish I'd kept it. Also how to keep those banjo fittings from leaking which is a huge problem with the China and India parts. These are called Dowdy washers or Bonded seals depending on where you live. They have a soft seal to take up irregularities and a hard washer to tighten against. Your connection will be leak free. Now 9 Bamfords sitting here, anyone want a job????

9

Hi Bob,

check that the governor mechanism is working correctly and leave it at that. I have to use goole for the governor mechanism  :)
I used google, i am going to check if the rpm is correct (1500)
I hope it is correct, now 380V and 50,5Hz with no balast.

Yesterdag i dit some work at the fixed resistors, left yesterday, 2 right more than 15 years ago and it still fit.
10
Hi Bob, thanks for the reply (in line answers)

Good day Ernie, a very interesting question you have posted. You want to fit an AVR to a generator that outputs both 380 volt 3 phase at 50 Hz and also 220 volts at 50Hz. Your generator stator is wired in a Y configuration with the three phase coming off the three legs of the Y but you also have a fourth slip ring on the stator that comes off the centre of the Y, your 220 volts will be between that centre tap and one of the outer legs of the Y. I have never seen an AVR that could control both three phase output and single phase output, I am not saying that such a unit does not exist but if it does it might be very expensive.

Looks like i got from the power company 3 fase Nutral and earth. If an AVR can control the 380V part the 220V part is always good (1:1 relation 380:1.73=219.6)

I am curious to know why you want to fit an AVR, do you run a lot of very sensitive electronic devices? I ran a ST2 Generator with a single phase 7 KVA Brush generator for many years in Northern New South Wales, Australia, under no load it was dialed in to produce 240 volts at 50 HZ, at full load it would produce 235 volts at 49.7 HZ, not bad for a fifty year old generator set. I ran computers, TVs and all household electrical appliances off this unit without any problems

No i dont need a AVR ( i thougt it was the only way to go from 380V to 400V)

Personally, I would replace the old selenium rectifiers with modern silicon rectifiers. Ok

and then adjust the wire rheostats to get as close to your desired voltages as possible. Is the rheostats the only resister i can adjust, above post second picture? (Pentagon 2R0)

check that the governor mechanism is working correctly and leave it at that. I have to use goole for the governor mechanism  :)

Are the 3 fixed resistors (Pentagon 2R0) to be replaced by 2R0 100 Watt resistors? (Pentagon 2R0 is on the resistor, 2R9 in real)

regards, Ernie
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10