Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
Listeroid Engines / Re: our kiss program for a starter on our 10/1
« Last post by selmawp on Today at 08:44:46 PM »
Hi, would love to be able help you, but just finished cleaning my shop and don't have enough parts to make one.
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Resurrection of a Lister 12/2
« Last post by dax021 on Today at 07:14:51 PM »
And I'll bet it never came out of the factory with that air filter either.
Engines / Re: valve job
« Last post by dieselspanner on Today at 05:26:16 PM »
Remember that you're taking it to a machine shop, turning up with a big lump of rust and grease won't endear you to the work force!

Get as a clean and dissembled as you can, their effort should then reflect yours...

Hi Everyone

While the morning was cool I went for a walk in the garden to pull out the sweet potatoes ... not bad for a 10m row. The other have to wait maybe one or two more weeks.

After that, pressing new bearings in gen's rotor, and primer paint in some bits.

Have a sunny day.
Engines / Re: motor set up
« Last post by ajaffa1 on Today at 01:59:09 PM »
Hi Chefiam1, the word lube covers a lot of ground from engine oils to grease and to some gasket sealers/liquid gasket.

For engine oil I like Castrol RX super, this a good product and I generally run a 15 W 40, it is a little to thick in winter but in Australia we get much more summer than we do winter. We do occasionally get a frost but normal temperatures here range from 10 centigrade through to 50 centigrade. There are a great many other petrochemical suppliers selling similar products, buy what is on special this week to suit your climate. If your engine has been badly neglected and is full of sh1t you could buy a gallon of Flushing oil, this is a very heavy detergent oil used for cleaning out dirty engines. The procedure is to fill the sump with the flushing oil, start the engine and let it get up to normal operating temperature (perhaps 20/30 minutes). Stop the engine and drain out the flushing oil while still warm, do this before fitting a new oil filter. Now fit you new oil filter and refill the engine with regular oil and carry on as normal. Do not throw out the flushing oil, if you let it settle it can be reused in your next project.

There are too many different grades of grease to comment on.

Gasket sealers and liquid gasket: I do not like liquid gasket and will never use it, I would much rather spend half an hour cutting out a proper gasket than use that lazy mans sh1t. Gasket sealer is a different thing, I swear by Locktite  MR 5923 aviation gasket sealer, it has never let me down. You need to paint a thin layer onto both faces of any gasket and allow it to air dry for 15 minutes before assembly, it will not leak! While this product does not harden with heat or time it does stick like sh1t to a blanket so I would not recommend it for something like a rocker cover gasket, as you will need a new gasket every time you want to adjust the rocker tappet clearances. For rocker covers and other regular access panels I would recommend smearing a little grease onto the gasket before assembly, this should stop leaks while allowing easy removal/reuse at a later date.

There are some more recent cylinder head gasket spray sealers that are high in copper, I hear good things about them but have never used them. I prefer to clean both mating faces, file off any dings or burrs fit a new gasket and then torque the head to the recommendations in the manual. Now run your engine for about 10 hours and let it cool down before checking the torque on the cylinder head nuts/bolts, cylinder head gaskets have a habit of shrinking in thickness once tightened and heated.


Listeroid Engines / Re: I thought I was a bit ......
« Last post by ajaffa1 on Today at 10:31:52 AM »
Hi 2Ton46, sorry you haven`t found the woman of you dreams but I respect your decision to spend as much time as you can with your Father, while he is still with us and I am glad to hear that his cancer scare has passed.

My Father passed 30 years ago and there isn`t a day goes by that I don`t miss him, make the most of it while you can, and keep posting photos of you wonderful inventions.


Engines / Re: valve job
« Last post by ajaffa1 on Today at 10:12:56 AM »
Hi Chefiam1, generaly I would strip down the cylinder heads, remove the rocker assembly, valve springs and valves. I would clean the heads of all the crap and deliver them to the machine shop in their barest form, along with the new valves, guides and seats if you have them. Engineers/machinists charge for their time the more you can do for yourself the less it will cost you.

The other advantage of this approach is that you can clean and check the rocker assemblies and etc while waiting for the machinist to do his job.


Engines / Re: Replacing expensive old imperial bearings
« Last post by ajaffa1 on Today at 09:57:42 AM »
Wow Cobbadog, what a beauty an absolute credit to you, your skills and perseverance.

I won`t be posting any photos of the one I have been helping with. After sitting outside for ten years it needs a lot of new body panels, new instrument panel, new instruments and switches and etc. My next job on it will be to build it a new wiring loom so we can get some of the instruments working even if the dashboard has a lot too many rust holes in it.

Engines / Re: valve job
« Last post by cobbadog on Today at 05:38:29 AM »
G'Day chef,
I try to strip then clean the parts within reason then take them to the engineering shop when I need them to do machining work. You will then also have the option of reassembly by them or yourself and that would save some money as well if working on a budget or you want the experience in doing it yourself.
Many here will be able to help with any of the tricky parts as you have found out already.

Welcome to the Forum!
Engines / Re: Replacing expensive old imperial bearings
« Last post by cobbadog on Today at 05:32:04 AM »
After years of rebuilding the engine, clutch, brakes and then going to rallies and then a sand blast and a paint job along with a heap of other stuff inbetween this is how our Cropmaster turned out.
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10