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 1 
 on: Today at 03:09:25 AM 
Started by EdDee - Last post by glort

I hate to tell you Ed, You missed the mark with your creation. That's not a burner, it's an oil powered incandescent Light bulb!  :0)
It sure has a nice flame shape to it. Looks like it runs perfect.  I find the design is so easy to get to run but still everyday I have people coming to me saying they can't get them to light.  There was one guy that sent me some vids and every time the thing did start to come on song, he panicked about the flame size and shut it off.  Californians.... Strange mob.

When you pump some decent oil and air through that thing it will be a real weapon Ed!  Perfect for miscreant disposal as well. all you need is a small hole to put the ashed and bones in.
Can't wait to see a full power run. You are going to need plenty of head height to get oil flow or a pump. The back pressure alone will really slow the flow rate. 

Motivation has been very low with things going on so I haven't touched a burner in months.
I have however been unable to put my hoarding tendency's aside and found some 6.6" thick wall pipe and had a couple of good scores.  So far my confirmed best output with a burner is 600Kw. I know it does more ( probably under 1000Kw) but I have never been able to measure and confirm it.  The thought has always been to go big and do something 1000Kw+ and go up from there.
Finding enough of this large Diameter pipe for a foundation has had the gears in my head grinding through the grit also present in there and keeping a look out of suitable materials and ancillary to build the MOAB... Mother of all BURNERS.

On friday I bid on and won 2 identical high powered Jumping castle Blowers for the princely Sum of $10 ea.  I had in mind a twin Turbo design to provide enough combustion air.  Fuel delivery will be fine, I'll use one of my converted Chevy oil pumps with a valve for metering and another to control by pass. Being positive displacement pumps you can't dead head them  or the will stall the motor or build pressure till a hose blows being I have already blocked off the by pass and set the impeller gaps close as I can for max flow and pressure.

I have been mucking around with a DIY aeroponics grow tower which has amazed me with how fast the lettuce and veggies have been growing in the things even though it's only been set up a couple of weeks. I put pockets in the side of a blue HDPE plastic barrel and added a pump and a timer so the thing is fully automated. The bottom of the barrel acts like a sump for the nutrient which so far is just some cheap hardware store liquid fertiliser rather than proper Hydroponic Nutrient.  All I can say is the stuff works!
During the week I Found some PVC pipe up the back so put some pockets in that, added another micro Sprinkler in the top and put in some left over neglected seedlings that were looking pretty dodgy through being forgotten about.  Just days later these plants have grown incredibly and look awesome.  I'm not a salad person but the taste of what I'm growing is incredible. I have to stop myself just picking the plants bare every time I walk past. I do like Rocket and the taste of this stuff is unreal. so strong and peppery.

Anyway.... I decided to go for a fossicking drive to see if I could find more pipe offcuts around some estates being built I know of not too far away because I'm a cheap arse and hate buying anything I can find.
I didn't find any pipe which surprised me but on the way home I cruised through an indutrial area so see if I could happen across something. There is always rubbish being dumped in these quiet of a weekend backstreets and you never know your luck.  Seems mine was in!
No PVC pipe but one scrap metal bin did have some plate, bar and other offcuts that will be handy in future projects I'll get to some time in the next 125 years.

The BIG score was a Dust extractor sitting on the side of the road.  Just caught it out the corner of my eye sitting level with the front of a parked truck so I went back and had a look.
The power lead had been cut in half, one of the castors on the trolley mount was collapsed but the thing looked good and was single phase. In the bag was the other half of the cord and a good length of hose.
Bonsai!  Put it in the back of the ute and came home happy.

Took it round the back, re connected the cable to the full compliance of international OH&S laws with some acorn nuts on the semi exposed wires, hit the switch and the thing run up perfectly.
Effing amazing!  Some turnip threw thing perfectly good thing out because.... it has a busted castor you can get at any cheap shop or about 4 bux???
The thing was so good I actually wondered if I had shanghaied something someone put out and had gone to get the car to pick up. Then I remembered the cut cord and though . no, someone wanted this out the way.
Talk about one mans trash but this would have been pure and utter waste.  The thing is clean, relatively unmarked, runs smooth and true and is just a nice piece of gear.

It also blows a gale. 2 HP motor, by far the most powerful in my blower collection, 7" inlet, 6' Outlet.... Blowing beast of a thing.
I think I have the right size castor up the back to replace the broken one and I'm also thinking I'll unbolt the dust bag assembly, make up a frame/ support for the burner, mount it on the same trolley, add a heat shield and sit the oil tank underneath ( 60L)  put a pump there and have the thing portable and self contained.

Leaves me with a couple of possible burner designs. I want to make this a horizontal burner for aesthetics and practicality in melting engines in drums etc.  I could do the "torpedo " type with a center tube for vaporizing the oil which is going to be 2L / Min @ 1200 KW or I could do the usual side entry.  The air and fuel flow through the thing is going to be massive so I have to allow enough time for the phase change of the oil to go from liquid to gas and enough heat retention for that to take place. I will weld a couple of the pieces of pipe I have together to make the over all length about 1 meter to cater for this.
I'll look at putting a separate Gas line on it for starting and I have a 600V Coil so I'll weld in a spark plug for ignition to fire the gas for preheat.  It's going to have a lot of thermal mass so need a LOT Of preheat.
I was also thinking of seeing if I can work out how to construct a pair of Raptor type flat jet Nozzles so I can move a lever and direct the heat output to the ground for say melting snow off pathways, Burning weeds, cremating dead horses where they fell etc.

Might call the thing the " Globull Warmer" in order to upset all the whining environmentalists.  The thing will be perfect for warming greenhouses. Raise the temperature in no time and add a good dose of Co2 so the plants grow even better and save on the Bottled co2 a lot of the places use now to raise the levels.  I imagine other good uses would be warming aircraft hangers where they service 747's, Thawing railroad point switches, emergency heating for shopping malls and high rise buildings, Use in coal fired power station boilers and drying washing..... one entire street at a time.
If it's a bit Cold when I move, I'll just fire this thing up in the back yard so I can have spring/ summer temps all year round.  :0)

 2 
 on: April 22, 2017, 07:33:34 AM 
Started by EdDee - Last post by EdDee
Hey Guys....

And now for something completely different.... Glort, you are going to enjoy this....

Firstly an apology for my long absence.... The builders have finished and the great cleanup is in progress... I have been lurking in the sidelines reading all the happenings, most enjoyably!

Yesterday, between sorting piles of stuff and pushing brooms, I came across a pile of bits that I had put aside and earmarked for building a little waste oil burner.... my target was around 80kw, and I think it's pretty close... Being an "easily distracted" type of fellow, it was not long and the broom was tossed aside and a welder was employed instead thereof to allow for a bit of creative R&R...

Here are a few pics and vids of the first run up and test... ok, I realise its not a lister, but its still a bit of fun you guys might find interesting.... I haven't set up a fuel tank for it yet, but i did make a slight change (so as not to infringe on your patents, Glort) ... I installed a 2"T piece on the inlet where the fuel line is to be inserted .... This allows, with removal of the reducer, a handy port to stuff burning debris into, for the initial fire up... The vids were taken late evening, with a regular cel camera and no
additional lighting... It is running at about 70% or so capacity with only a little oil poured into the chamber to get it to fire and test... the air line is "loose coupled" with about a 6"gap between the inlet and the blower outlet, so there is about 50% of the draft going to waste... Still very impressive though... a cooldrink tin was held in front of the outlet and it burnt about a 1.5" hole straight through it in less than 3 seconds.... "Dragon mk1" has been born! No need to paint it.... Incandescent white seems to be a natural running colour........

http://www.warriorpaintball.co.za/private/Vapourising Oil Burner 20170421

Enjoy!

Keep it smoking....

Cheers
Ed

 3 
 on: April 21, 2017, 06:19:29 PM 
Started by glort - Last post by dax021
Thanks for the reply.  I have heard of guys chucking mothballs (naphtha) into a tank of petrol.  Supposed to boost the octane level.  Here in South Africa we don't get 97/98 octane anymore, best is 95 and only at the coast.  My old Hilux is supposed to run on 98 so pinks with the lower octane.  I haven't tried the mothballs yet though.

 4 
 on: April 21, 2017, 03:20:21 PM 
Started by glort - Last post by glort
Hi Glort, maybe a silly question, but at what point do blend in the ULP, during the drying/filtering stage, or after you have decanted into storage drums?  Also, does the blend stay mixed, or does it separate out with standing?

You could do it either way. Myself, I add the ULP when I fill the tank.  I used to pour the ULP into the fuel drums after I poured a bit off and shook them before putting it in the Vehicle.
Now I tend to throw the ULP in the tank then add the oil. I did some mixing tests and pretty much any agitation mixes them together.  People go on like it's trying to mix oil and water but it's pretty much the opposite. They mix together at any opportunity.  My reasoning is by adding the ULP first, the inrush of the oil causes it to mix as it goes. Been doing it that way a couple of years now and yet to have a problem so must be OK.

The other main reason I blend when I fill the tank is because I can blend to the temps at the time. IF cooler weather is predicted I can up the ULP. If it's predicted to be hot I can back it off and if I know I'm going to be doing a lot of driving like going up the country, I may not add any ULP at all because once the thing is going, it's going to be hot till most of the tank is used up. Also on the vehicles I have had, the return fuel warms up what is in teh tank after a while anyway as does I believe hot air from the radiator passing under the vehicle as well as the exhaust.

Another reason I blend when filling the vehicle is because THE ULP will expand and contract more than the oil meaning you have popping drums and Flammable vapor in them.  I'm far from a safety sissy but as I store a LOT of this stuff around the place, I'm much more happy with something that's going to put out a campfire if you pump enough on it rather than something that's going cause it to flare.
Easy to put a 25L drum of petrol somewhere it can't do any harm than a 200L drum of mix.

And the other thing.....  I use oil in different engines and forever tweak the blends so I prefer to do that at the time so I don't forget what it was or I may have to add ULP or oil anyway to get the ratio I want.

All that said, I have read of people that pre mix their oil before they filter it. They say it makes the rubbish and water drop out easier which makes for easier filtering.  They pump off the top of the drum where the oil is cleaner and drier and then put the last 20-40L into the next batch and let that settle out.  The idea of Filtering ULP laced oil does not appeal to me.
As I dry my oil, the ULP would be driven off before the water and I'd loose it's benefits... not to mention making the place smell like a refinery which is sure to go down well with neighbors and FAR more importantly, The Mrs. NOT!!  2ndly, I couldn't test for water initially to get an idea of how wet it is.

A lot of people ask about separation, like every thing else I have tested that too and no, it NEVER separates out.  I had one test going for well over 2 years.  Just put the stuff there in a jar, kept an eye on it for a while and there it sat. And sat and sat Until I accidently knocked the jar off the shelf......  Never changed one bit.



Quote
I love the idea of simply washing the alcohol out of ULP! Tempted to do that on the fuel I feed my Jag road car (4 litre supercharged)... the only thing I'd wonder is, would that wash out any of the other additives they put in there?

I have heard that a lot too.
I looked into the additives they put in fuel ( here at least) and everything I found was oil based and would not mix with water. I have no reason to believe anything but the Alcohol would be removed in the water.
The washed fuel i make goes in my mowers and my Harley and I have never had any problems. 
If one was worried about that and wanted to use washed fuel, you could always put it one of the endless additives in a bottle. I don't really believe in them but If they make people feel better... 

A tip on additives/ Flushes......
Read the MSDS. I bought a drum off a guy that used to make his own additive brand and that was what he put in everything.  I looked at all the products I could find on the Net including the main ones and EVERY single one I have read for fuel or oil treatment all contains one major Component..... Naptha.  Shellite. Coleman gas. White spirit..... all the same thing. 
I can buy a litre Bottle at the hardware chain for $9. Miles cheaper than buying it at 50-80% concentration in a 250Ml bottle for $14 or whatever.  I buy a bottle, fill the tank and throw in 500ml-1L .
The other main component in these additives is usually another hydrocarbon..... Kero, Diesel and I suspect Transmission fluid under another name.

I added a bottle of Naptha once on a newly acquired truck and nearly shipped myself. It was blowing this noticeable blue white haze and made the engine looked like something was majorly wrong. That went away about 3/4 the way through the tank and I could see it thinning the further I drove which was a country trip.  Must have been cleaning something out of the engine because it wasn't doing it before and it cleared up on the same tank.  I suspect it could have been something to do with the residue in the manifold from the PCV or EGR. Far more trouble than it's worth on a diesel those. Stuffs up modern engines regularly I disconnect it or block it off as soon as I get a vehicle or engine that has it.
I put some naphtha in the tank every so often when I remember it to help prevent any possible gumming in the IP.  You can also run it straight into the engine  as a more concentrated flush. Naptha is the main additive in those sort of fuel system cleaners as well.  I run the engine on it direct about every 6 Months and shut down after about half the bottle is used and let it sit for as long as I can. You see the bottle change from water clear to a darker colour. Black if it's a new vehicle to me and been running diesel.

In honesty, I find no difference to the way the vehicle goes after the treatment but then again, I probably don't want to as that would mean something was not right. It's a preventative and if it takes away any gumming or whatever before it causes a problem, That's the aim of the game.   Grin



 5 
 on: April 21, 2017, 01:09:09 PM 
Started by glort - Last post by AdeV
I love the idea of simply washing the alcohol out of ULP! Tempted to do that on the fuel I feed my Jag road car (4 litre supercharged)... the only thing I'd wonder is, would that wash out any of the other additives they put in there?

 6 
 on: April 21, 2017, 08:43:52 AM 
Started by glort - Last post by dax021
Hi Glort, maybe a silly question, but at what point do blend in the ULP, during the drying/filtering stage, or after you have decanted into storage drums?  Also, does the blend stay mixed, or does it separate out with standing?

 7 
 on: April 21, 2017, 03:16:36 AM 
Started by glort - Last post by glort
When blending we also need to recognize that RUG and ULP are blended different for region and season. Vegie's summer blend RUG may not boil at 190F.

I'm not aware of variations in summer to winter petrol but that means nothing.
Comes back to what I say though, it's important to test things in YOUR situation and not just do what the last guy parroted.

I still think 20% ULP/RUG is too high in any engine I have tested  and apart from cold starting, I couldn't see a reason why to go that high.  For a stationary engine in extreme cold, I'd 2 tank it.  A " Hot" mix for starting and a running mix with 5% or straight oil.  I would probably triple blend the start mix. 50% winter Diesel, ( or Kero if you could get it)  40% oil, 10% ULP.
You don't need valves or anything fancy on a stationary engine for 2 tanking it.  Just a T piece with a valve each side so you turn on or off each tank.

I would also say that blending  in above freezing temps on a stationary Diesel with plunger type pumps is unnecessary.  They are more than strong enough to pump anything that will flow along a fuel line.
As odd as it seems ( to me anyway)  Viscosity has little to do with spray pattern through the injector. This is also a big fear in the veg world but outside of there, like in Diesel Mechanics circles, it's well known.
I suspect that as any old Diesel injector cracks at 20K + PSI or above, the pressure is so great viscosity differences are over whelmed. Could be that the spray pattern is so fine to start with as well it makes no difference.
the greatest viscosity change in oil is in the first 40oC.  IE, from 0-40o, the viscosity changes something like 60-80% ( forget exactly)  In the next 100+ the viscosity only changes 20-40% beyond that which is about 5% over all.  People always try to have their oil as hot as possible going into the IP but it is neither necessary or I wonder if the best thing for the pump. Some pumps rely on the fuel for Cooling and others have the engine oil running right through them which means the pump temp will be far more dependent on the engine temp through the oil than they would be on the fuel temp.

All I can say is I have run unheated oil in my truck for the last 5+ years and never had a problem and never run hot oil in a stationary engine and had no problem there either and I have run it in everything from the lister to the little China Diesel.  One may be able to look up the specs for their pump which will give the max centistrokes ( Viscosity) the pump will handle. I remember looking at it for the Bosch pump on my Merc and it was amazingly high. Certainly beyond what oil could ever be and still flow down a fuel line by many fold.  I can't see any other plunger pump being different just from design alone.

These are good examples of Veg theroy not adding up to reality.  Oil does not have to be heated to 80o+ although most will say it does.  Oil does not have to be thin to spray properly or avoid stress on the IP. These things can be looked up and clearly seen if people put the effort into finding the information.
So much easier to work to the facts than the misinformation that is constantly put out there and people believe because they have heard it so many times before.

Again, it's important and smart to test things in YOUR conditions because everyone does not work to the same variables.


 8 
 on: April 21, 2017, 12:23:15 AM 
Started by glort - Last post by BruceM
Glort's solution of burning the washed gasoline alcohol/water for diesel water injection...wow.  Very truly green guy. 




 9 
 on: April 20, 2017, 04:28:24 PM 
Started by glort - Last post by Tom
When blending we also need to recognize that RUG and ULP are blended different for region and season. Vegie's summer blend RUG may not boil at 190F. I'm still sitting on 110 gal of hydrogenated soybean oil that is a thick glop at room temp. I might try drying some and seeing if it clears up.

 10 
 on: April 20, 2017, 02:03:09 PM 
Started by glort - Last post by veggie
Thanks Glort,

Regarding ULP (Called RUG here in Canada), I found the same vapor issues as you, but in a different way.
My particular Listeroid model (smaller GM90 series) is a direct injection engine. I was attempting to drop the wvo viscosity to a level where the smaller injector nozzles could still provide a spray similar to regular diesel fuel.
During my viscosimeter testing with various blends, I realized that all my tests were being done at room temperature.
It then occurred to me that to get a true value of what viscosity my blend would be when injected, I need to warm the mixture to engine temperature and then test the viscosity.
Warming the various blends to 190f certainly did have a big effect on the wvo viscosity, however it also caused the blends with 20% gasoline to bubble violently and release a lot of vapors. So, unless under pressure from the injection system, ULP blends will be volatile. I can understand your point about gasoline vapor becoming an issue on some engines.

cheers,
Veggie

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