A very nicely done rig, 38ac.  How about a Rumely induced draft setup on your next one?
A little tin for a shroud, a little duct, a bit of exhaust plumbing and you're there!  

Best Wishes,
Bruce M

I changed my 6/1 to induced draft, ala the Rumely Oil Pull line of tractors, with their induced-draft cooling systems.  The exhaust is directed into the 8" galvanized duct, and extends up to within about 16 inches of the top of the top pipe.  The cap is a standard vent cap, for rain protection. It reduces the air flow a bit, but it is still excessive.





This works very well, requiring no AC power, which is nice when I'm just running my air compressor.

From the second photo you can see that only about 6x11 inches of radiator is being used- which works fine for full load at 80F.  This is a thermosiphon cooling system also, so now I'm looking for an appropriately small radiator with large inlet and outlet.  So far, the Geo Metro is the smallest I can find with adequate inlet and outlet.

I previously had no fan at all, just the large radiator, which worked fine except for the rare day here with dead calm air and a long run time at full load, when I'd start to boil off some coolant.

The Rumely method was something I wanted to try for fun.  If I was starting over with an engine room now, I'd put the radiator near the ceiling (near horizontal, return tilted down a bit) and go up through the roof with 8 inch duct.  Then the induced draft system would also pull the hot ceiling air out of the engine room.  (I presently use wind turbines for that now.)

Bruce
Metro 6/1
Off grid near Concho, AZ

PS-  Here's my Metro 6/1 on the inside, from 2007, just before I automated with a homebrew Picaxe controller.  You can see the pneumatic rack closer in this photo. It was only manual push button-air solenoid control at this time.

Thanks again, dieselgman. These would be perfect for an LPG-spark conversion, but for a diesel with propane add-on they won't work; they are designed to regulate the gas flow via intake manifold vacuum, which won't work right on a diesel due to the lack of butterfly valve and adequate intake manifold vacuum.

I guess I'll have to make my own low force metering valve or modify something suitable like a gas stove valve or some parts from a 2 cycle RC engine carb (a free moving ball valve, in effect). A ball valve can have it's output linearized via a notched plate next to the valve.



 

Classy setup.  I really like your higher vent location and extending it up; most of your splash lube oil mist will run back into the crank.  I also use a brass check valve on my breather (still on the big door), and pipe it outdoors.  I still get some vapors, but not enough to use more than 1/2 a quart of oil total in 200 hrs.  Sloping the pipe up, more like yours, might help.  Thanks!


 

It's always baffled me too, Quinn. Seems like a must have for most generators on CS's.  I wish someone would come up with "add on" weight wheels.  Preferably water filled!

With the inductive lag of even the small ST3 head I use, there is only so much you can do electronically in an AVR to reduce the power stroke variation.  It was driving my own AC battery bank charger software nuts; there was a 1.5 amp, 10 Hz current variation at a 10 amp charge rate (into 120V nom. battery bank). This despite AVR compensation!  I sure was surprised to see that since my charger has massive inductive and capacitive filtering- there is only 20mv of 60Hz ripple on it. It was being sampled (and displayed) once per second at a random point in the 10Hz cycle. You could watch the charge current value wander on the LCD display.  I finally just added some analog filtering to the processed current signal, so my controller would just see the average value and would quit hunting with the variac motor drive. 

I can only imagine how good the real time digital image generators are today.  And how much smaller they would be, too. (Ours filled multiple rooms in the 70's, by the mid 80's maybe 30 feet of cabinets.)

When I was working as a tech for Singer Simulated Products Division, they had a great bunch of guys who really knew their stuff, many without too much in the way of "blessings" by academia. Pay was significantly related to knowledge, ability and performance. The AF was pretty smart about valuing top notch tech support.  Most of us felt like you, Simtech, we loved the work.  Glad to hear it's still like that.   

A decent pop tester can be made using a manual grease gun as the pump. The standard flexible grease gun hose is rated high enough to be safe, and you must use hydraulic pipe fittings.  Under $50 for my whole setup.  For pop testing I used warmed vegetable oil, for safety reasons.  I posted info on mine here many years ago.

For a single cylinder engine, it might be acceptable to just hook up the injector outside of the cylinder, hooked to your IP to check pattern and for "dribbling".  Minor variations in pop pressure aren't going to do much, and the Listeroid injectors are already set pretty low. Just be vary careful about where the nozzle is pointing. You could lose your hand or worse from diesel injection through the skin.  

I think the standard procedure for break in is to have near as much load as you can while getting a clean exhaust. Avoid no-load running (always). So you can likely just put it in service after a few hours of break in running. assuming the service load is not too big to cause smoke.  Full break in is a few hundred hours.

Black smoke is too much fuel, blue is oil, white is coolant, gray is confusing .  If your exhaust isn't clean with loads you should be able to carry, check the valve timing against the spec, the cam gear might be off a tooth or two.