I've run mine out of fuel a hundred times and although I don't like to have to bleed the system I also don't mind to much anymore. Here is what I do. Fill with fuel of course, crack bleeder screw at filter until fuel flows out, close screw, crack banjo bolt at fuel pump until fuel flows out, tighten banjo bolt, remove injector line at pump, remove fuel pump check valve until fuel flows out (with cutoff lever down), install check valve and injector line. Crack line at injector. I place my middle finger on the back side of the injector tappet (under the pump) and turn the flywheel (with decompression on) until I feel the tappet reach the top of its travel then turn the flywheel either forwards or backward until I the tappet is at its lowest point and continue to rock the flywheel back and forth until fuel comes out of cracked line at the injector. Tighten injector line and continue to rock flywheel until injector creaks four or five times then start as usual. Keeping your finger on the pump tappet the whole time allows you to only have to turn the flywheel enough to move the tappet up and down, because it can get tiring. The engine may run like a hit n miss for a minute until the air is fully purged. Now you could just remove the check valve and wait for the fuel but it might take a while and it may leave a pocket of air somewhere that would make the engine stall completely. Hope this helps somebody.

Last winter I was able to get almost 4400 watts clear exhaust with my 6/1@ 670 rpm powering a toaster oven, ceramic heater and a shop vac. I was running a mix of diesel, wmo, wvo and rug with an ambient temp of around 30F. I know the colder, denser intake air must have been a major factor because I could only get about 3600w clear exhaust this past summer. Haven't experimented to much lately because I installed an offset idler and it seems to have advanced the timing and I haven't had time to recheck the spill timing. 5300 watts @ 748rpm billowing black smoke, why not?

Welcome CB. Looks great, does it bounce much?

Jimmer, it looks like yellow writing to me, look at his video and you can plainly see it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYuAFAWSU4M

I had a large pickup radiator at first but living in the northeast it was too large, in the winter anyway. My radiator is actually a horizontal radiator mounted vertically and it works great with thermosiphon so there are all kinds of possibilities. I have a 6" electric fan mounted behind it.

Jedon, there is nothing wrong with your setup except for a couple of things. Temp gauge is mounted to far from the system to be accurate, loose the extension and the sensor bulb would be more in the coolant stream. Second problem is air, air and more air. The purge tank must be plumbed to the highest point in the system. That's why I said to flip the radiator over so the overflow would be on top. Having the water pump allows you great flexibility and forgiveness, if you could get a nipple in the top tank of the radiator you'd be good to go or better yet find a radiator like t19's and modify the radiator cap.

The size and type of radiator you have is good and you could probably make it work, but it would be simpler with a filler neck on the top.

CRC Brake cleaner was once labeled for both brakes and electric motors but they do have a product called Lectra Clean. It comes in gallons also.

http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=02018&S=Y