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Messages - SHIPCHIEF

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16
Listeroid Engines / Re: Engine cooling
« on: October 24, 2012, 11:19:49 PM »
If I recall correctly from the distant past...
Bruce had his radiator inside a kind of convective chimney so the hot air above the radiator would rise, pulling cool air in?
Natural draft would be nice, the energy is free (after you do all the work figuring it out and building it)

17
Listeroid Engines / Re: 18/1 Tear down
« on: August 17, 2012, 01:58:21 PM »
Also;
Listers were most likely made with fresh cast iron, whereas Listeroids are made from recycled steel from the ship breakers, and other recycled ferrous junk.
Temperature control is suspect too...

18
Listeroid Engines / Re: Follow up 14/1 project.
« on: August 15, 2012, 08:18:22 AM »
Wire feed welding on the cast iron flywheel doesn't sound like a good idea to me...
The rotational forces on flywheels are very high, and welding cast iron causes a lot of local stress where the weld material shrinks when it cools.
Usually acceptable welds require pre heating the part. A big massive part would need a lot of heat, held for a long time before, during and after the weld repair.
You should do some research before welding it. Also check out mechanical repair, like a sleeve or taper lock bushing.
Here is a link discussing welding a car flywheel:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/fabrication-cnc-laser-waterjet-plasma-welding-fab/welding-cast-iron-help-needed-170995/
I had similar experiences cleaning out and rebuilding my new LISTEROID, but my flywheels were OK. still, I locked them in with collars to hold the gib keys.
Good luck, keep us posted, and really, I hope you find a way to fix the bore on that flywheel that does not involve adding heat.

19
Listeroid Engines / Re: 14/1 new project need help.
« on: August 05, 2012, 01:36:24 AM »
I don't know squat, but could you use some .004 steel shim stock to wrap the shaft, carefully run the flywheel over the shaft & shim until the wheel is seated in the shaft shoulder, the shim is straight and the keyway clear, then drive home the key?
Or is there a compelling rule or reason why this is a bad idea?
On my 25/2, I have a starter ring gear and a vee belt pully butting the flywheel lock keys, just a belt & suspenders approach to keeping the flywheels from 'walking off'.
Although taper lock bushings are not really expensive, boring the flywheel concentric & straight could be a challenge. That would be the Cadillac solution?

20
Listeroid Engines / Re: Another Listeroid owner
« on: August 04, 2012, 09:21:48 PM »
Don;
That's what I'm talking about!
I have a 25/2 on a 12Kw head. It's de-rated to about 730 RPM and can just about make 10 Kw (belt a-creakin')
I figure that with pinned on cam lobes, a replacement shaft is something I could lathe turn in mild steel.
Tool steel, now that's gotta be a strong camshaft!!

21
Listeroid Engines / Re: oil presure
« on: January 21, 2012, 10:39:26 PM »
Cujet's neighbor Rocketboy had a twin which lost oil pressure. He documented his engine progress on his website for a while.
If I recall corectly, his oil pump piston return spring had broken. Like into several pieces. It's easy to check.
I guess he posts under Listerboy now? here's a link to the relevant page.
http://www.listerboy.com/lister5.html
After cludging around on the site some more I would say that powerannand owns it? ,,Still, it's got the original story and is worth re-reading.

22
Listeroid Engines / Re: Turbo Listeroid
« on: January 18, 2012, 04:09:16 PM »
The whole idea of Turbocharging a Lister(oid) is just plain fun.
I'm behind the curve now, having slumped on my 25/2 turbo project.
Mom got a new hip, and I did the responsible thing.
Now snow is upon us. I may have to re-assemble the pre-turbo configuration if the power goes out!!
1 PSI is credible boost for a CS type engine. It's a start. More could be tolerated, but I don't think 8 psi would be a good idea on a splash lubed con-rod.
I have a Garrett T3 also, so this is a good data point for me.
Maybe I didn't expect as much as some of the posters, but this is working out great so far. Room for development and all that.
Intake pressure is good, but some Kw and fuel consumption data would be helpful, that's what matters.
 I'm impressed that it's being done!!  ;D

23
Listeroid Engines / Re: re-phase a CS style 2 cylinder engine?
« on: December 15, 2011, 02:20:26 AM »
Think;
Putt,Putt,Whiff,Whiff.
Putt,Putt,Whiff,Whiff.
When the engine operates at low load, the pistons' mass offset each other and the engine doesn't hop up and down, but it does rock back and forth.
As load is applied and the pressure on top of the pistons increases, the PUTT!,PUTT!,Whiff,Whiff. causes the engine to shake a bit differently and the rocking force increases too.
Sure, I think about rephasing, and 3 cylinder Listers.
I even draw a few engineering pics etc, but in the end, I go work on my homebuilt airplane, and be thankful for the original Lister concept.

24
I agree with cujet;
If you don't mind spending about $7000, a modern 3 cyl Isuzu is a top choice. 13 KVa is a lot of power, unless you run a heat pump or something, then you would probably need it.
I dream of such a genset.
I was thinking of the lower price point when mentioning used Lister air cooled gensets and ONANs.

25
I have an 6.5Kw SR2 US gov't contract unit just like Sfene & Apogee describe. I got it for $800 complete from a craigslist ad.
Turn key electric start. I'd advise that you start with that, then look for a "roid if that's what you want.
Having a twin, I'd suggest you get a single.  :P
I keep an eye out for interesting engines, and Lister(oids) are fun, but not the only ones.
Honda key start gas generator might be the final emergency generator for the wife.
I have electric start Onans that used to reside in motorhomes. Cheap!! These relaible units are a bit smelly, and use a tad more fuel. But I like the relaibility of last resort, and ease of maintenance.
Aw heck!! COLLECT THE WHOLE SET.  :D

26
Listeroid Engines / Re: 14hp Power Soultions low on power?
« on: November 17, 2011, 06:47:49 PM »
UP TO THE FARM?
Do you mean the farm is at a higher altitude?
Engines don't maked sea level rated power if they are operated at higher altitudes.
So add that to power factor issues and high starting current loads.
Lacking amp meters for total amps and or leg amps, and a power factor meter ($) we are just guessing.
I'm adding a turbocharger to my 25/2 for a small increase in power. I'm about half done, and might have to reassemble it if the power goes out... :P
On the other hand, you may have a power loss due to something simple, like a restrictive exhaust, tappets out of adjustment, dirty air filter, or poor fuel.
Running with low jacket water temp or a partially clogged injector?
Just throwing stuff at the wall, maybe something will stick.

27
Listeroid Engines / Re: STAND
« on: November 04, 2011, 06:15:44 PM »
Now thaqt's what I'd call a
Slik ear on a sow's purse!  :D
I love a well appointed Lister(oid).

28
Listeroid Engines / Re: Anyone in the Group snowed in yet?
« on: November 01, 2011, 07:08:01 PM »
I just cut into the exhaust system to install a turbocharger.... ???
But if I need power, I could throw it back together again in about a half an hour.  :laugh:
That's what I love about these things.

29
Listeroid Engines / Anyone in the Group snowed in yet?
« on: October 30, 2011, 08:32:23 PM »
I see in the news that the Northeast USA is snowed in and at least 3 million people are without power.
Anyone in the group live there? How are you doing, are you running on Lister(oid) Power?

30
Listeroid Engines / Re: Tips for installing a glow plug
« on: October 17, 2011, 04:47:46 AM »
Installing a VW 1.9 TDI glow plug in a Listeroid CS COV plug can be done on a cheap Central Machinery lathe in a single setup.
I Chucked the combustion chamber end, which is cylindrical. While just lightly fit in the chuck, I ran the 'dead center' into the center hole in the square end, effectively reentering enough for a glow plug.
I Drilled thru 1/4" for the glow plug tip, then bigger holes for the glow plug body and seal, 23/64" tap drill size for the 10x1.0 mm tap, and 3/4" recess for the head of the glow plug and to fit a deep well socket to install/remove the glow plug.
I used a boring bar to spot face the 3/4" bore's tapered bottom from the drill.
I installed the 10x1.0mm tap in the drill chuck, and turned the work by hand, getting a perfectly straight thread. The glow plug tip is centered in the plug face.  :)
My COV plug looks like the two left ones in XYZR's photo above.
VW 1.9 TDI glow plugs are a bit shorter that depicted on XYZR's pictures, but I can't see that it will lead to any problems.
The NGK 5909, also known as Y-732j is a self regulating unit that can tolerate manual operation and long 'on' times. I used a generous gap around the tip to prevent seizure from swelling after the plugs get old, and hope the space will assist with cold starts. The NGK plug was locally available for $10, so I gave it a chance. If it's got a short life, I can pay more for a Bosch or something.

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