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Topics - rcavictim

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31
Not so slow, these are like the 3600 RPM Yanmars and clones but yoikz, look at the prices.   :o   See also how you can spend almost five grand on a B&S engine.  Well certainly won`t be me.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/NTESearch?storeId=6970&in_dym=1&Nty=1&D=than&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&N=0&Ntk=All&Ntt=diesel%20engines%20small&cmnosearch=true&cm_ven=PPC&cm_cat=Yahoo!%20New%20Sponsored%20Search&cm_pla=nt_engines&cm_ite=diesel%20engine%20small&OVMTC=standard&OVADID=5136118022&OVKEY=small%20diesel%20engine&OVKWID=44256378022&OVRAW=Small%20Diesel%20Engine

Boy, those Chinese horizontal water cooled engines like Changfa sure look like a bargoon don`t they!?  Personally I think that sweet deal is going to disappear with all the other good deals from China when they adjust their currency to meet the wishes of the rest of the world.  With the Canadiian dollar at a healthy high, now on par with the US buck, it is time for us poor, financially struggling Canadian DIY`ers to buy the engines and tools we need from China.

Princess Auto in Canada has been importing a very impressive and attractively priced lineup of tools and shop related equipment for quite some tiime now.  I have seen the quality really improve in recent years.  I can only imagine what may be showing up on their shelves soon with the latest jump in our currency.

Now if only the Chinese engine factories would start making a Lister 6/1 CS clone!!!!!!!

32
I note that there is a demarcation line at the model 180 horizontal, single cylinder cast iron hopper cooled China diesels where this size and smaller do not employ internal spinning counterweights and the models 185 and larger do.  I am told that engines with the countershafts are physically much heavier and beefy in their construction, giving some the impression that engines like my light weight JD175 should be considered no more than a toy. Toy or not, my engine runs very well and I would like to see if I can get long service life out of it for a battery bank charging application up to 2 kW.  I have improved the internal oiling system.  I have about 150 hours on the engine now direct driving a 2 kW ST type alternator head at 1800 RPM (the engine is rated at 6.6 HP@ 2600 RPM).  It will make 2 kW at 1800 RPM with black smoke,  1700-1800 watts no smoke.

I have been thinking of cutting up some one or two inch steel plate and making some bolt on mass that I could attach with bolt fasteners to my 175 engine block as an experiment.  I want to see if this makes the engine happier at lower speed operation for one example.  I would be interested in comments on whether it may also help the engine last longer.  I suspect it will run smoother.

This question sounds like it will breach the same territory that was discussed to death with great contention about the Listeroid and a ton-o concrete bolted underneath.  I am thinking of adding in the area of 50-70 pounds or so.  No more.  That is about 1/3rd to 1/2  of the engines present mass.

33
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Princess Auto finally has Chinese diesels
« on: June 26, 2007, 06:07:01 AM »
I stopped by Princess Auto in Barrie, Ontario today for some parts for my electric vehicle project and was pleased to see they finally brought in some single cylinder, high speed, lightweight Chinese 10 HP Lanmar clone type diesel engines.  They have electric start and keyswitch. The displacement was just shy of 500 cc.  These will be a nice alternative choice for those like me simply not interested in gas lawnmower engines.

34
Stan,  you have this as your signature line.  OK, I and I`m sure others would like to know what you have to share on this subject.  I have had a toshiba Techra 8100 (700 MHz P-III, 1/2 GB RAM, 40 GB HD, CD/DVD reader, CD burner) now for about a year and some with no problems....yet except that the battery is shot and I need to find a replacement at low cost.  My CD ROM drive seems to have a flaky connection.  I often have to slam the drawer in aggressively to make it work.

Besides Stan, anyone else have issues with Toshiba laptops?  Care to vent, advise?

35
Generators / re: the ST gen head. What does `ST` stand for?
« on: March 09, 2007, 08:09:55 PM »
I asked George B. once what `ST` stood for as in Chinese ST generator head, but quickly forgot.  For the life of me I cannot even conceive of a meaning that seems to make sense using these two letters.

Some Trouble?
Second Troublefree?
Saves Time?
Saves Taxes?
Sans Transformer?
Synchronous Tone?
Sweet Thing?

If  they really wanted to hype these they could call `em ` RA`,  touted as having a `Revolutional Armature`design.  How`z that for missing a marketing opportunity?   ;D

Anyone know?

36
Original Lister Cs Engines / Might have found a real Lister!
« on: March 07, 2007, 06:16:05 PM »
I was speaking to my friend with the farm scrapyard who I got my original but rust bucket Petter PJ-1 from.  Fortunately I was able to free the siezed piston and restore it to good running condition.  Sandblasting took care of the surface rust.  Now it looks like brand new, which in the old days was considered a good brand.  ;D     He tells me he has a one cylinder Lister diesel attached to some sort of a sawmill under the snow.  Naturally I clearly conveyed my sincerest and most enthusiastic interest in acquiring this engine.  He is going to try to look at it in the next day or two and report back to me with any ID tag info he can find or at least a more detailed physical description than `Lister one cylinder engine`.    It sounds like it is NOT a CS unfortunately but I`m thinking any original Lister single cylinder engine from the pre Lister/Petter merger days (if in fact it is)  is going to be a desireable engine for a small off-grid genset.

I will keep you all informed as I know.

37
I am watching the alleged TV news and just saw the tragic tornado school damage and loss of life in Alabama due to this big storm today.  It hit my location a couple of hours ago and has been hard wind driven wet snow pellets turning to freezing rain later.  The wind is brutal.  i just tried to get my car closer to the road so I would be able to get out and I got stuck.  Looks like I`ll be going nowhere for a few days.

My power is pretty reliable here because I am on the same feed that supplies an area Honda affiliate factory.  When they were building that plant the same summer Ontario Hydro crews were all the way down my rural road replacing poles, insulators and other components of the big 44 kV, 3-phase line that runs down this road.  Obviously Honda has the ear of the provincial government!  Power has been much more reliable since that maintenance job, and outages generally shorter.

I went to the shop and fired up my JD175 genset just to make a bit of heat running a 1 kW load and to be ready in case the power goes off and I have to go out there in the dark to get the larger plant started up.

Anyone else running a genset yet related to this storm?

38
General Discussion / Scored a BIG 800 Amp DC cct breaker
« on: January 26, 2007, 05:05:56 PM »
I was at a surplus store yesterday and amongst a small selection of the usual industrial sized, AC type circuit breakers, the larger of which were really  pricey, I found a Heinenmann DC  rated breaker that is a dual 400 Amp job strapped together to make a single 800A breaker rated at 160 VDC. These are strapped at the factory.  Has #2 trip curve (good general purpose protection) and a internal SPDT instrumentation switch to drive an external breaker status monitoring circuit.  This is a GJ1P-Z166-1.  A Google revealed that this is Heinemanns flagship premium hydraulic magnetic design offering and is considered good enough to completely replace any circuit fuse and may be used as the ON-OFF switch in many applications. The power range  in this GJ1P series is 100-1200 amps.

Because this breaker has an attached sticker from the factory that states `SPEC PURPOSE NOT FOR GENERAL USE` and the fact that it is DC only seems to have made the price way lower.  I got it for $24 CDN + taxes.  ;D   If it had been priced comparatively to their AC breakers it would have been at least $200.

I now have a perfect circuit breaker/disconnect and overcurrent protector for my home power system battery bank! 

39
Other Fuels / Opinions on running new synthetic oil as fuel
« on: January 20, 2007, 05:15:51 AM »
I have an opportunity to acquire some brand new synthetic oil which I hope will be useful as a motor fuel.  Unfortunately I have no data on it but am told it is synthetic.  It is very thick, like 90W gear lube and a nice golden color like corn syrup. I was thinkling of cutting it with kerosene to make it less viscous.  All I know is that it was used as an additive in the manufacturing process of making automobile tire rubber.

I`m not a petroleum chemist so I really don`t understand what the differences are between what are commonly called synthetic oils and regular mineral oils. Are synthetics based on mineral oil stock or are they something else altogether?  Now I`ll assume this synthetic isn`t the same formulation as an oil desiged to work in a car`s crankcase in all temperatures and severe service like say Mobil One

That being the case still I wonder. has anyone tried burning synthetic motor oil in their diesel engine?  Were there any coking or deposit problems?  Obnoxious smell?  Babies being born deformed in the hood?  Under the hood?

40
Other Slow Speed Diesels / All I wanna know is.....
« on: January 12, 2007, 10:21:31 PM »
Regarding reduced speed operation of Chinese horizontal diesels.

I`ve asked this question before and received no helpful chatter, rather more discussion resembling skepticizm.  I would dearly like to know if anyone that possesses a Chinese diesel like a model 1115, in particular the Changfa 1115, has attempted to run it at the lowest possible speeds where it still seems comfortable, at greatly reduced power output of course, , say 2-3 kW from the generator head.  A 20 HP (@2000 RPM) 1115 is almost as large in displacement as a Lister type 6/1 and should be able to make 4-6 HP in the 600-800 RPM regieme without trouble is what I`m thinking.

I have recently purchased a JD 175 (6 HP at 2600 RPM) and have determined that if all one needs is 1 kW, the fuel economy is measurably better at 1200 RPM than at 1800 RPM from an 1800 watt directly coupled head run at reduced speed (lower frequency and voltage not an issue for my application).  My plant can make 2 kW operating at 1800 RPM, 60 Hz and gets normal fuel economy doing so.  At 1 kW it uses more fuel at 1800 than it does at 1200, and at 1200 will last longer.

edit to correct typo

41
Original Lister Cs Engines / `Code Of Conduct` Questions
« on: December 12, 2006, 01:47:53 PM »
Tank,

Since you closed the thread you posted I`ll ask in a separate thread. 

Your Clause #6 prohibits sales announcements.  Does this apply also to help intended notices of say an ebay auction for an engine or part that the participants in the particular thread might appreciate knowing about that is not anything to do with the person posting the `discovered this sale` tip?  Personally I think losing that ability would be harmful, not helpful.

I agree if a member wants to offer goods for sale that should go in the special forum intended for such activity.

42
Everything else / Injector preheaters, making your own
« on: October 15, 2006, 01:07:54 PM »
I have problems with my 1.5 liter Rabbit NA IDI diesel engine (now in a DIY power plant) coking up the injectors badly when I try to run on filtered WTF as opposed to clear diesel.  It has occured to me over time and reading here and elsewhere that one thing that would be worth my exploration would be providing heat to get the injector bodies up to a goodly warm temperature.  As they are now you can hold your hand on them when the engine is hot.

I haven`t yet coked the single injector of my freshly re-ringed 12 HP Petter directly injected air cooled single used only so far on new oil, but have smoking problems that sometimes clear after a good hard run.  I cobbled together a simple electric silicone strip heater around the injector last week and gave the plant a 6 hour run at half speed (900 RPM) and very light load (1.7 kW).  It ran very nicely and was not emitting more smoky as the run progressed.  I had the top part of the injector that I could reach at I`ll guess about 140 F., uncomfortable to hold after a couple of seconds.  Originally it ran cold.  I was encouraged by what I saw from this first attempt at injector preheat and believe this to be an idea worth persuing.

I would like to come up with a electric heater design that would be inexpensive and easy to apply to the injectors of both the VW and the Petter engines.  It would be a bonus if the heater design also lent itself to heating the injector high pressure fuel feed lines as well.

I have an idea that I want to experiment with.  I have some teflon insulated wire here, about AWG18 that has silvered, stranded copper inside.  I have been stripping short lenngths of this insulation to use as spaghetti insulation on under chassis electronic components like resistors and capacitors in the building I do of custom hi-fi tube amplifiers.  I have several colors in stock and the stuff will never melt in the applications where I employ it.  The teflon I have appears to have a working temperature range up to about 500 degrees F.  I was thinking that if I could somehow pull a good length of the outer teflon sleeve off my wire stock and snake a nichrome wire salvaged from an electrical heater down the center hole I would have a heating element that could simply be wrapped around the body of a fuel injector and associated piping.  A step down and isolating power transformer would be used to apply a suitable (lower than full mains voltage) current to the heater(s).  They could be safely heated to perhaps 400 F which might be enough to heat the injectors to the desired 200F target range.  Thermal insulation of some sort could be placed outside of the lines and injectors if necessary to increase the efficiency/heating capability of this system as needed.  Pink fiberglass or better yet, rock wool and self adhesive aluminum heating duct tape could do the job for an example.

I offer this in the spirit of sharing DIY ideas and invite comments and further suggestions from the readership.  I will report here when I have anything to add after my experiments begin.

43
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Isuzu c201 diesel engine from reefer unit
« on: October 08, 2006, 11:58:00 AM »
All,

I have been aware of an old ThermoKing reefer unit mounted on a deconmmissioned highway trailer now for some time in a farmer`s field not too far from me and decided to finally pursue it after some research and glowing praise for the very long lifetime expectancy and reliability of this engine as from the mouth of one of our guru engine experts here.

See the engine here. http://thermoparts.com/isuzu_diesel_engines_repair_c201.html

Check out that massive 17 litre (quart) cast aluminum oil pan!  Someone please correct me if I`m mistaken but I think I read this engine has replaceable wet cylinder sleeves and both pressure lube circulating filter as well as bypass filter.  Wow.  That is serious, made to last, made to run long hours unattended, re-buildable industrial engine technoliogy.

So....yesterday I went and paid the owner a visit, examined the machine in more detail and made a deal with him.  I should have the engine with attached V-twin directly driven compressor and all the associated bits, removed from the reefer enclosure to make handling easy before the snow flies this year.  Won`t be long.  This gives me a nice indoor winter project (like I needed another  ???  )

My intended application is to direct couple this 2 litre, 4-cylinder water cooled, IDI diesel engine which is designed to work well at a leisurely 1300 RPM, or faster speeds, to an 1800 RPM Alternator generator head and use it as a power plant, much like I did from scratch with a 1980, 1.5 litre VW 4-cylinder IDI Rabbit diesel engine here already.  It sure sounds like the Isuzu will make a longer lived package and overhaul kits are much cheaper than for the VW engine.

I want a generator that can be run 24/7 for long periods and while the VW appears that it can, I know it won`t give me 30,000 hours service life between major overhauls.  It sounds like the Isuzu may.

Anyone out ther do anything similar with one of these reefer diesel plants?  Got any helpful tips for me?

44
Recently I tried to ask a question in the new DIY Forums about improving the performance of an induction generator and it went way off topic quickly as a discussion of my particular proposed use of such a improved induction machine, in a wind turbine.  It seems to me that this might be a good time to introduce a new subject area in the new DIY section specifically for the discussion of DIY wind turbine power generators.

Please vote in this five day poll and if the consensus is positive perhaps the management will give us another subject area.

45
In this discussion I freely use the term generator, alternator, induction generator and so forth to mean an AC generating device.  This discussion does not concern itself with DC power whatsoever.

By way of introduction I should explain my motivation for this thought process.  I am fabricating a large DIY wind turbine which will have no more than about 1200 RPM available to turn a alternator at max wind speeds. Most of the time much less than 1200 RPM will be available and I need to be able to make reasonable amounts of power with a generating machine spinning far less than rated shaft speed.  I will have enough horsepressure at 1200 RPM to make 20-30 kW.  If I could simply afford to purchase a 20-30 Kw, 1200 rpm, 6-pole type ST head my problems would be solved.  In reality 6-pole alternators are not manufactured by the budget manufacturers like the Chinese ST heads and to get one you have to deal with a company like Marathon where you will pay big bucks while getting undisputed high quality.  I cannot afford to run a marathon. :(

I have a 20 HP, 575 volt, 3-phase induction motor whch would be useable if I could spin it close to rated speed most of the time.  I cannot.  My experience with capacitor assisted, stand alone induction generators is that you have to get them up pretty close to nameplate RPM for them to have any useful output, or any output at all.  Even then they cannot handle inductive loads and both regulation and efficiency are poor.

I have experience with a 3-phase rotary converter I built to run my machine shop.  It employs a 3/4 HP induction motor belt coupled to a 7.5 HP, 3-phase motor.  To start I apply power temporarily to the 3/4 HP motor which gets the big motor up to nameplate speed.  I then close a switch that applies 220 volt, single phase mains to one of the three motor windings.  I release the power to the starter motor.  I now have 3-phase power available from all three windings of the big motor which is acting like a rotary xfmer.  Another way to look at the motor is as a form of externally excited, self propelled induction generator operating at a fixed power frequency matching the nameplate design.

This scenario got me thinking about the possibilities of applying an exciting voltage to one winding of a 3-phase induction motor used as a generator head.  If one could synchronise the frequency of the excitation AC with the shaft speed of the induction generator one might obtain an induction generator that would more closely display the desireable characteristics needed and obtained normally from a real power generating alternator.  Those being output voltage and frequency tracks shaft RPM and output would be available at lower speeds than a simple capacitive excited induction generator.  The ability to handle inductive motor loads might be as good as a rotary converter based 3-phase power supply.

Two methods of excitation came to mind.  At first I thought that a audio power amplifier could be employed with appropriate step down coupling xfmer on the input, and step up xfmer on the output  (to match the motor voltage). The input sensing xfmer would connect to one winding of the motor, the output transformer secondary to another.  Delta motor connections would be fine as one terminal of the three becomes a common ground for the amplifier.  The principle of operation would be that residual magnetism would create a sine waveform on the motor windings as the head was first spun.  The amplifier would take that sine and amplify it enough to produce an excitation waveform that was in phase with the rotation speed of the the motor. This synchronous excitation would allow voltage to appear on all 3 windings in proper 3-phase relationship.  The high power on the exciting leg needed by the rotary converter is not needed to spin the motor as the prime mover provides this energy.  Power directly proportional to the shaft RPM should then be available from the 3 windings of the induction motor.  There would be useable 30 Hz power at reduced voltage when the motor was turned approximately half of nameplate RPM, like a true generator head. At 3/4 shaft speed you could expect 45 Hz, and more voltage, and so forth. One problem with this scheme is the need to power the amplifier from another power source before the system can operate on it's own.  Another issue is to provide electrical protection against transients, and physical issues of vibrationn and environment to the delicate amplifier.

Thinking this further it occured to me that a low power, conventional alternating generator like an ST head might be driven mechanically from the source of motive power that also turns the 3-phase induction generator.  Pulley sizes could be selected with a belt drive to couple the units.  This way an inexpensive 1800 RPM (4 pole) head might serve to excite a 1200 RPM (6 pole) induction generator for my variable drive speed wind turbine. Even a 3600 RPM 2-pole head could be used if one could be found that would be reliable and not turn to fuzz inside after a short service life.  In the case of a diesel powered genset if this works it would allow synchronous generator performance from a large, high hosepower yet inexpensive induction motor turned generator.

In operation I suspect the unit would have to be brought up to speed free from the burden of any external electrical load to allow the excitation source to get the juices flowing without being shunted by a load.  I do not see this as an inconvenience.

Comments/discussion welcomed.

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