OK, I'm totally impressed!

The lithium iron batteries generally are no more risky than lead-acid. I don't want to say they can't overheat, as any battery can overheat. But the electrolyte is not flammable in the same way as Lithium Ion.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xNjz73p80

Cool setup and thanks for the pics. It's really nice to see what people are doing. Can you run your solar setup off grid?

Mine sounds like that from time to time. In my case, a spray of belt dressing quiets it right down.

The same heavy loadings that kill the upper shell in an 8/1 or SOM flywheel engine can be duplicated in a spoke flywheel 5 or 6/1 engine by having the injection timing advanced from the Lister specifications.

Correct, injection timing is critical for bearing life.

@ Cujet
 
I recall your very nice builds and frequent participation.
Re the Youtube link..... A really nicely done and well balanced movable system. Didn't you use a helicopter rotor balancing system to smooth it out?
Is it still in operation?
Does that engine use a water pump? Cheers Hugh

Yes, the engine still works great. I need to make a new fuel tank. Thinking of an integral sight glass.
Yes, the setup uses my preferred method of circulation. A brand name "Grundfos" 120V water pump. Generally the style for hot water circulation for home heating.
Yes, I use an ACES helicopter/jet engine balancer to balance the engines. It can also be done "by hand, by feel" if you know how. I put some of the clues in an old thread.

  were you one of the original fella's to make the hollow oil dippers ? I know xyzer was one as well. Was wondering if you have them installed in your engines?   

I do have the XYZer hollow dippers. So far, they are holding up. I did not make my own.

I'd love to see a video of it up and running again.

These engines really are special. With basic skills, they can be kept running nearly forever. Good job on the repair!!!!

It has been quite some time since I've done these calculations, so everything is by memory. However, being rather nerdy, I do tend to like playing with numbers.

My 20/2 Listeroid is run at 850 instead of 1000 RPM. It's well tuned and makes about 18HP. It will produce 11,500W with the ST15 head. The generator head efficiency seems to be about 85% at this point in it's operational range, about 76% of rated max output. I am not using the Z winding, instead I'm regulating and filtering the output of one 120V leg, in an attempt at producing a smoother sine wave.

In the end, the generator head is not terrible. But the power pulses of the engine do result in the typical lister flicker.

I think it is more efficient to use an AC powered battery charger, than to use a DC (car style) alternator. Off the top of my head, alternators are generally no more than 60% efficient. While a good battery charger is 93% efficient.

The governor spring "style" can affect RPM drop. The more linear the spring's rise in tension, the more accurate the RPM control, and the more likely the engine will not damp out RPM fluctuations. I've experimented and found a spring setup that gives a good balance.

I ended up running my 6/1 at 733 RPM. It will make about 4000W with low smoke, and 4400W max. Seems to be a nice RPM for the engine.

As a general rule, any forged crankshaft can be safely welded up and re-machined. It really is not a difficult process, and when done correctly, is 100% trouble free.

Ohio crankshaft can probably do it.

Also, undersized bearings can often save a worn crank. What typically looks horrible is often not as deep as it seems. Also, even if there is a groove or two, after being re-machined, it will typically hold up fine.

https://ohiocrank.com/save-the-crank/