Thanks Wrightkiller. Thats the one!!!

Made by  "Crossword Agro Industries"

Hey JD, have you got a price on on eof these?

Matt

I have heard of them but dunno about quality.

Just play it safe and get a Powerline or JKson. These are tried and tested by many. Their faults are relatively few and they are well documented on this site and others.
Unless you get the Nissan for half the price of the others, I would steer towards the well known brands.

regards,
Matt

The original 6/1 was long lived and unstressed.  The rest are alll a compromise of some sort on the original concept.

Hey RAB, what about the 8/1?? They are just as long lived as the 6/1.

Hi Woodart and welcome!!!
I personally have stayed away from the 6/1 because of the risk associated with the casting of those spoked flywheels. If there is a flaw in one of the cast iron spokes, there is little metal around to share the load - which could be catastrophic!!
I would suggest for your own family's safety, go with a minimum of the 8/1. I went for the 10/1 JKSON. I have seen many of these as I am a former importer of them. The 8/1, like the 6/1, is also an original British Lister model. The 8/1 has heavier triangular-sectioned flywheels. These wheels are heavier which is better for power generation, and they are also most likely safer due to the large triangular sections of cast iron instead of thin spokes. The price difference is almost nothing....not to mention the bonus of having the extra horse power at hand!!

All the best for your project!!

Matt

PS Give yourself a year to get it built and sort out the issues that may arise.

Spoked flywheels invariably have a lower safe speed rating.  Also more chance of a casting flaw being a serious safety hazard.  There are a lot out there who would gladly swap your solid flywheels for their spoked ones!

Regards, RAB

RAB, you beat me to it. I agree completely with your asessment of the flywheels!!

Capt Bob, keep away from the spoked flywheels!!
Get a Poweranad and make it a 8/1 or 10/1. The spokes on the 6/1 are just not worth the risk of a casting flaw. Remember, it can still explode 20 years after you have gone and take out one of your descendants along the way. What an awful heirloom to leave behind to your grandkids.

Given our level of understanding on these issues I do not understand why anyone in UK, USA, NZ or Oz would take such a risk with this kind of thing. More metal inside the wheel = improved safety - especially if there should be a casting error hidden in there somewhere. Not to mention the extra flyweight you get as a bonus with the 8/1 or 10/1 wheels which helps smooth out power pulses in genrating installations.

Play it safe my friend and put the aesthetics second.

As far as build quality - I used to sell JKson and can confidently say they are very good and not too expensive.
If you can't get one of these then pay the extra and go Powerline (Poweranand).

Its the little things like no leaking fuel taps and decent fuel filter on the Powerline that make the difference in price worth it. Not to mention the unpainted crankcase.

All the best for your new Listeroid purchace.

Matt

Hi Stephen,

I do the Listeroid head bolts up to around 160-170 ft lbs.

All the best,
Matt

Bob, yes the crank rod journal is rifle drilled to oil the big end bearing. The rod is also drilled with the two splash holes in the top side and it has the grooved upper shell installed.  I would be a little worried that the centrifugal slinger would not provide enough voulme to the bearing, even if it did, if the oil pump quit pumping the catch ring would run dry and that would surely spell disaster.  So what do you think, leave it as is or go to a hollow dipper?

I have some points to make on this....

1, I recommend close inspection of the oil output tube that feeds the oil pickup ring. If you manually pump the oil with the lever, the oil only dribbles down the side of the tube. There does not seem to be enough pressure to shoot it out and make the jump across to the oil ring.
Having said that, the pump would probably pump harder when the engine is running and may make the jump. I am thinking of restricting the flow tube that feeds the roller bearing on the other side to help feed the oil ring better. Both roller bearings do not really need this special oil feed tube to them as there is a plenty enough oil splashing around in there to oil them. They are very exposed to the splashing. The single sump Listeroids just leave these roller bearings to splash lube anyway.


2, If the pump was to fail, the extra holes in the top of the big end bearing would only be of benefit for a short time. This is because the top sump would eventually empty down into the lower sump from the slinging action of the oil dipper...which would eventually have nothing left to sling!! Maybe we could avoid this by filling up the oil level right up full until the dipper level similar to the models with the single sump. Maybe then the engine would survive without an oil pump. Then hopefully the amount of oil flying around in there may be enough to be caught in the oil ring without the pump working. I live in hope that it will.

regards,
Matt

I too am very glad the forum is back!!!!

YAY!!!

Matt