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Messages - ajaffa1

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16
Hi Ernie, looks good. I still recommend replacing that selenium rectifier with a modern silicon bridge rectifier. Selenium rectifiers deteriorate over time, if you are going to use the originals please watch out for a smell a bit like garlic, this will be coming from a failing rectifier and is extremely carcinogenic, don`t breath it in!

Bob

17
Hi Ernie, those resistors look to be in good condition. When I rebuilt my Lister generator I spray painted the resistors with a black exhaust manifold paint, looked good and stopped them from corroding.

Bob

18
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Bamford in a box
« on: March 23, 2024, 09:10:44 PM »
I would come and do the job for nothing, just for the opportunity to learn from the master. Sadly the commute from Tasmania might be a bit much.

Bob

19
Good day Ernie, a very interesting question you have posted. You want to fit an AVR to a generator that outputs both 380 volt 3 phase at 50 Hz and also 220 volts at 50Hz. Your generator stator is wired in a Y configuration with the three phase coming off the three legs of the Y but you also have a fourth slip ring on the stator that comes off the centre of the Y, your 220 volts will be between that centre tap and one of the outer legs of the Y. I have never seen an AVR that could control both three phase output and single phase output, I am not saying that such a unit does not exist but if it does it might be very expensive.
I am curious to know why you want to fit an AVR, do you run a lot of very sensitive electronic devices? I ran a ST2 Generator with a single phase 7 KVA Brush generator for many years in Northern New South Wales, Australia, under no load it was dialed in to produce 240 volts at 50 HZ, at full load it would produce 235 volts at 49.7 HZ, not bad for a fifty year old generator set. I ran computers, TVs and all household electrical appliances off this unit without any problems.
Personally, I would replace the old selenium rectifiers with modern silicon rectifiers and then adjust the wire rheostats to get as close to your desired voltages as possible, check that the governor mechanism is working correctly and leave it at that. If you have sensitive electrical appliances, feed them off a UPS which will stabilise the voltage supply to those items.

Hope this helps,

Bob

20
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Bamfords knee deep
« on: February 15, 2024, 08:14:59 AM »
Hi Butch, looks like word has got out that you are a man that knows what he is doing. I`m still going through trying to get my workshop set up, but work has already started to roll in, don`t need it right now but word gets around.
I do hope that the quantity of incoming work is not going to impact your contribution on this forum
Thanks for your great advice to Hugh.

Bob
 

21
Listeroid Engines / Re: Knocking, now what?
« on: February 15, 2024, 08:05:50 AM »
No wonder these flywheels are so difficult to remove if Butch is recommending urine rather than Loctite. well done guys, Hugh is back in business!

Bob

22
Lister Based Generators / Re: 1925 Lister 2T and Generator
« on: February 09, 2024, 09:11:14 PM »
Here in Australia Mid Brunswick Green is available off the shelf in hardware stores, if they haven`t got it they can mix it for you. When I look at some of the amazing custom paint jobs on hot rods and motorbikes in the USA, surely someone there could mix it for you. I can only assume that some of the pigments needed are banned in the USA for environmental reasons.
Good luck with your search.

Bob

23
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Bamford in a box
« on: January 31, 2024, 08:42:32 PM »
I love doing jigsaw puzzles, don`t remember ever having to make any of the pieces though.
I hate having to make nuts and bolts, are any of them high tensile? How will you be heat treating them?

Good luck with it, I`m sure it will be another triumph.

Bob

24
Listeroid Engines / Re: Spun the rod bearing, CRANKSHAFT is FUBAR
« on: January 18, 2024, 08:28:04 PM »
When I had to dismantle my CS, to have it shipped to Tasmania, the flywheels had also welded themselves to the crank, despite my having used an anti seize lubricant during assembly. Pullers and sledge hammer wouldn`t budge them. Eventually I gave up trying to pull them off and instead tried to get them to spin on the crankshaft. I took off the crankcase door, removed the piston and fed a piece of 4x2 between the big end and the crankcase. I then gently rocked the flywheels against the timber, once they started to move it allowed the ATF to get in and they came off easily.
Hope this helps,

Bob

25
Listeroid Engines / Re: Spun the rod bearing, CRANKSHAFT is FUBAR
« on: January 17, 2024, 08:43:43 PM »
Hi Stef, Starfire came up with a very inventive way of doing emergency repairs using just hand tools and what was available locally. Hugh is probably looking for a more permanent and long lasting repair. I wonder what Starfire would have done about the damaged taper roller bearings.
I recently had to replace a pair of TRBs in a Cooper vintage engine, replacements were only available in the UK at nearly 500 pounds each. I machined the casings to take much more modern TRBs at a fraction of the cost.

I don`t envy Hugh trying to do this sort of work in the subzero temperatures where he lives.
Good Luck.

Bob

26
Listeroid Engines / Re: Advice on exhaust pipe connection
« on: January 07, 2024, 07:45:39 AM »
Easiest answer is to take it to a blacksmith/welder and have him braze the joint. You won`t be able to dismantle it ever again but it won`t leak.

Bob

27
Good output.14.5 amps if you run 240 volts, nearly 32 amps if you run 110 volts. Here in Australia the only appliance that would require that amount of juice is a large electric hot water cylinder. I will be very interested to know what she maxes out at.

Bob

28
Listeroid Engines / Re: Lubrication port beside the decompression lever.
« on: December 29, 2023, 08:19:04 PM »
I suspect that some of our Australian farmers are not much better. Which brings us back to the question of oil and frequency of oil changes. Lister recommended a non detergent oil that allowed particles to sediment out in the bottom of the sump.
Non detergent oils are becoming expensive and hard to come by and provide a lot less wear protection than modern synthetic/semi synthetic oils. Aftermarket oil filter kits are available for CS engines. Has anyone tried fitting one of these and running a detergent oil? What effect did it have on frequency of oil changes?

Bob

29
Listeroid Engines / Re: Lubrication port beside the decompression lever.
« on: December 29, 2023, 08:12:43 AM »
Hi 38ac, I definitely had serious wear on that end of my camshaft. I put it in the lathe and turned the shaft down to fit the next smaller size bush.So I now have an original CS with a metric oilite bush at that end. I also had a lot of wear in the governor weight pivot pins, I reamed them out to fit the next sized high carbon steel rod I could find.
I suspect that some of the wear problems I found were due to poor maintenance by previous owners or the amount of hours it had done.

Bob

30
Listeroid Engines / Re: Lubrication port beside the decompression lever.
« on: December 27, 2023, 07:59:28 AM »
When I rebuilt my Lister CS I looked at providing increased lubrication to the governor end of the camshaft. The problem is that there is a brass bush at that end that has no oil seal. Increased oiling will result in a nasty trickle of oil running out below your fuel injector pump. I opted to replace the brass bush with an oilite bush and hope that splash oiling would do the rest. So far so good.

Bob

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