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Messages - dax021

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31
General Discussion / Re: Another Roadside Attraction
« on: May 07, 2022, 08:55:55 AM »
Ah, sorry.  It is between Sedgefield and Wilderness on the N2 road which runs from Cape Town to past Durban in South Africa.

32
General Discussion / Another Roadside Attraction
« on: May 05, 2022, 09:10:16 PM »
Went past this place the other day.  It is not open yet, but will be a coffee shop, bar, museum.  It hosts a private collection of old machinery and and there is so much it is lying all over the place.  Apparently they are setting up a working forge too.  Unfortunately, as it is not yet open to the public, I couldn't get in to take better pictures.  I will definitely go back soon and take some more.

33
Engines / Re: SR2 starter replacement
« on: March 10, 2022, 04:10:30 AM »
Good advice, but make your ATF/Acetone mix 50/50.  It will work better

34
Listeroid Engines / Re: Muffler Through Wall Question
« on: March 05, 2022, 12:58:23 PM »
Don't know if there is a proper way, but i would look at someone's Harley and copy that, I'm sure those guys have got exhausts waxed.  I don't think you need a 4" pipe either.  My SR2 has a factory 2 into 1 manifold with a 2" pipe off that and through the wall

35
Engines / Re: SR2 starter replacement
« on: March 03, 2022, 05:58:30 PM »
@cobbadog
Looking at the manual you provided, I was reminded of a boat I used to have circa 1973.
It had an SR2 rated at 12BHP continuous. On the side of the fuel control was a stop with a lead seal. Breaking the seal allowed the operator to advance the throttle to "WAR EMERGENCY POWER" I never tried that, but the engine could produce that 12 HP effortlessly. The heated air could be ducted to the cockpit and sure kept it warm.
Cheers
Hugh

Apparently Spitfires had a seal like that too.  Break the seal for emergency HP.  Hence the saying "through the wire"  If the plane came home with the wire broken, the engine had to stripped and rebuilt, which apparently pissed off the techies.

36
Everything else / Re: Battery Series/Parallel connection guidance
« on: February 05, 2022, 06:20:25 PM »
Thanks, learnt something today

37
Everything else / Re: Battery Series/Parallel connection guidance
« on: February 05, 2022, 07:57:04 AM »
Flattened copper pipe is great, but there is also 16 oz/SF copper flashing to consider. Amazon carries it.  I use it for HF grounding systems and connections to same, and also for high current strips and straps on power PCBs, etc.  Handy stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Flashing-Contractor-use-Lead-Pressure/dp/B07MYMMK17/ref=sr_1_2?
keywords=copper%2Bflashing&qid=1644014251&sr=8-2&th=1

You are 100% correct, that stuff is great, but rather expensive.  On the other hand, I have so many offcuts of Cu pipe lying around from my handyman work, that it is essentially free and would go to scrap otherwise.

As far as I know, stranded cable is still the most effecient option.  As I understand it, voltage flows along the outer sides of a conduit, so the more strands, the less resistance.  The higher the voltage the less the losses, but at low DC voltages it apparently makes a differnce.  In my case the cost doesn't justify the effeciency gain.

38
Everything else / Re: Battery Series/Parallel connection guidance
« on: February 04, 2022, 10:31:55 PM »
I make "bus-links" by hammering 1/2" copper pipe flat and drilling required holes. Good for a couple of hundred amps. 3/4" pipe would give you a bit more again.
You can then insulate with heatshrink or tape.

And I would make them all the same length/ gauge, but it probably isn't neccessary.

I do the same, 1/2" Cu pipe.  Never bothered with the heatshrink though

39
Everything else / Re: Battery Series/Parallel connection guidance
« on: February 03, 2022, 08:50:57 PM »
There is no parallel in that diagram. 4x6V is in series to make 24V 225A.  Turn the 2nd pair around so that you don't have that long link between them.  Keep your links the same length and your feeds the same length (although it is not really an issue in a straight series connection, basically it becomes one large battery)

40
Engines / Re: SR2 starter replacement
« on: February 03, 2022, 03:35:53 PM »
I think some engines didn't have a Z, but rather had an A for anticlockwise, like his engine.  My clockwise rotation SR2 has no suffix letter

41
General Discussion / Re: one of the early members has gone to the lord
« on: January 17, 2022, 04:19:59 PM »
RIP Quinn, I didn't know you, but you were obviously highly respected

42
Engines / Re: Paint Removal LPW
« on: January 10, 2022, 07:56:30 PM »
Yes dax, you are correct, my mistake and I appologise for misleading the group.

Once the metal has been cleaned you cannot treat it with an oil or anything else as it will not allow your paint or in this case POR15 to bond to clean metal.
Read the instructions on the POR15 to see if they recommend any pretreatment undercoat/primers. Otherwise wait until your ready to do the POR15. You are aware that POR15 has a very short shelf life. Once the can is opened you are all systems go and have a couple of days at most to finish using the product as once the air gets to it the curing starts. They are sealed at the factory using a gas to stop curing.
I have seen but not used a laser blaster used for motor parts. I only last night asked a member from another Forum if he has received his and if it actually worked. Like so many things the videos make you think that this is the answer to cleaning parts up but can come back and bite you. The one in question was less than AU$50.00 plus postage so will be interesting to see how it went if at all.
If there is no information on the can of POR15 send the company an email and ask if they recommend a product but it will not be any oil base products as paint and coating do not stick to oil. If you are hindered in being able to do a full days work due to health or other reasons I would suggest that you get someone to help you complete the POR15 job in one go.

Absolutely no need to apologise.  There are so many types of acid out there with long chemical names, it is easy to get them mixed up.  Hugh, I am unfamiliar with TSP, what is that?  I'm sure there are millions of products out there to strip paint, most of them pricy, but to be honest, for cast iron I found good old cheap caustic soda flakes(sodium hydroxide) to be the most effective.  It also works better if heated, but I never bothered, it worked perfectly albeit a bit slower at room temperature.  It will anyway get quite hot as a result of the chemical reaction with the water.  As mentioned, a couple of days completely submerged and then blasted off with a high pressure cleaner did wonders for me.  It does however, not remove powder coating or plastic based paints, these are best removed with a blowtorch.  If you are worried about rust, heat the lump up after rinsing, best in an oven, but I don't have one of those, so just used a blowtorch.  The tiny bit of surface rust that appears is easy to wire brush off just before painting.  I just used a good quality automotive primer and paint, and most of the pumps I did are showing no signs of rust after 20 plus years in the elements on farms and trucking yards.

43
Engines / Re: Paint Removal LPW
« on: January 10, 2022, 05:56:15 AM »
Was it not phosphoric acid, which is the active ingredient in most rust converters?  I use hydrochloric (pool acid) to remove surface rust, but unless neutralised with an alkaline or plenty fresh water, it starts rusting almost immediately. Just my 2c, I could be wrong.

When restoring old petrol bowsers, I would completely immerse all the cast iron bits in a strong solution of caustic soda.  Not a trace of paint or primer left behind.  Just make sure there are no non ferrous metals still attached, as it will quickly chow that up.  Again, rinse well before painting, and paint asap, as it starts to surface rust very quickly.

44
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Lister Blackstone advice
« on: December 09, 2021, 02:50:54 PM »
Just make sure you use the correct material for the application.  Also made my own for many years to use on petrol (gas) pumps at filling stations. We used "viton" mainly

45
Listeroid Engines / Re: Flywheel energy
« on: October 01, 2021, 08:18:59 AM »
This technology was widely used at cell phone towers in South Africa in the 90's.  An electric motor turning a huge concrete flywheel, which would apparently power the tower for 2 to 3 days in the event of a power outage.  As far as I'm aware, they've all been replaced by battery storage. (which causes another problem in that these batteries get stolen on a huge scale resulting in many towers without power during an outage)

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