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Messages - Johndoh

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556
Engines / Re: Yet another question
« on: March 11, 2016, 08:10:25 AM »
Thanks for that mate, everything seems to be OK just looks a bit shabby.  i once had a Petter AD1 and there was a constant flow of fuel from the leakoff, it was a noisy bugger too. Are those little cheapo digital tachos on ebay any good?

557
Engines / Re: Yet another question
« on: March 09, 2016, 11:29:15 PM »
Thank you to all you guys that answered my questions, you probably heard them all a dozen or two times already. The engine is now running, I got the manifold cleaned after reading an article on this site about soaking an exhaust overnight in caustic soda to remove carbon, it worked a treat. I have a small concern in that there's no fuel coming from the leak off pipe, is this normal?
I have ordered a full set of gaskets as I now want to strip her down and paint her before I show her to anyone.
Anyway thanks again you guys are stars!

558
Engines / Re: Yet another question
« on: March 08, 2016, 01:25:44 PM »
Brass banjo bolt had a slightly burred thread!

559
Engines / Re: Yet another question
« on: March 07, 2016, 06:12:20 PM »
Just tried an M8 1.25 bolt, it only screws in a little bit, maybe I'll have to buy the very expensive Lister original part unless anyone has a suggestion?

560
Engines / Re: Yet another question
« on: March 07, 2016, 04:38:02 PM »
The Lister LT range is a metric engine, hence your fitting will be M8

Thank you very much Sir! I made an assumption that everything was imperial

561
Engines / Yet another question
« on: March 07, 2016, 02:45:53 PM »
Hi Guys, The fuel connection on my LT1 injector pump is leaking. I need a new fitting it seems to be 5/16 BSW and I can't locate that size. M8 metric bolt seems similar does anyone know if it would fit and hold? Thanks again

562
Lister Based Generators / Re: Horsepower calculation
« on: March 05, 2016, 06:38:10 PM »
There are six different governor weight pairs for the LT1 for all the different build specs. Your unit will have weights and you should be able to govern to 1500rpm, just try it out and see how it behaves.

dieselgman

My engine is build 10, according to the manual this engine doesnít' have weights from engine number 36 02475, can this be correct? Thank you

563
Lister Based Generators / Re: Horsepower calculation
« on: March 05, 2016, 04:46:52 PM »
The engine and alternator may be bracketed together (most common setup), or you could mount both on a skid base of simple manufacture. Scrap steel is common in most parts that can be re-purposed.

dieselgman

Hi Gman, there's plenty of scrap iron for making brackets etc. If I use a car alternator the pulley is usually a clutched pulley about 1.5 inches across. This would make it very difficult to attach any kind of larger pulley without specialist machinery that I have no access to. I have a round 5 inch aluminium billet slice but I'm wary of having it turned as they re like hens teeth here. There are Lucas alternators with a V pulley again the pulley is quite small but would maybe be easier to fit a larger pulley. The larger 230v alternator might be the simplest?

Do you know if the engine could be modified with governor weights? If I adjust the spring to it's maximum would it stay at 1500 RPM? I'm thinking the speed isn't critical for lights and the UPS will have a battery anyway? Thank you

564
Lister Based Generators / Re: Horsepower calculation
« on: March 05, 2016, 04:16:40 PM »
I must admit to having no hands on experience with the LT series engines but with the older Lister air cooled engines the vast majority had fixed RPM governing. If so equipped you will need a spring at the least and possibly governor weights to change the RPMs.  If you do have variable speed governing that is a definite plus and I like the RPMs under  1800 if for no other reason the engine is a whole lot less annoying when operating. Slowingthe engine does lower HP output and must also be considered as you have found.

 How many and what size belts you use depends on your pulley diameters.   Larger pulleys require fewer and smaller cross section belts than small ones.  Dodge/Reliance has excellent engineering handbooks that last I looked were available on line, if not I have the books on the shelf and can look things up. My seat of the pants guess would be that 2 A section belts would be required to transmit that load over 6" pulleys.

 As for pulley types be aware that what people commonly call a "taper lock" pulley is actually a "QD" type. The QD is what you want easier to mount correctly and much easier to remove down the road. The QD uses hex head cap screws while the Taper lock uses Allen screws that have an annoying habit of stripping out when you need to remove them down the road a piece.  Ebay is your friend for such with surplus pieces selling for 10-25% of retail.  

QD bushing


Taper lock Bushing



I'm thinking the Allen head screws could be replaced with hex bolts with the same thread?

565
Lister Based Generators / Re: Horsepower calculation
« on: March 05, 2016, 08:21:07 AM »
Guys thanks for replying. I have thought about a 12v alternator, a battery and a  power inverter. I don't know enough about what output I'd need from the alternator, size of battery and inverter etc. I suppose one advantage would be I could use a pure sine wave inverter instead of a ups? I have a couple of VW alternators but the pulleys are very small I think they produce 65amps. I dont have the flywheel extension shaft, my engine was on a concrete mixer, it's got little wear on the engine and I believe it was stopped with the de-compressor and thatís what damaged it. I also have a very low income! I could run a ribbed belt off the flywheel I have a 4" ribbed pulley how  to attach to an alternator is a problem? Any ideas suggestions welcome!

566
Lister Based Generators / Re: Horsepower calculation
« on: March 04, 2016, 12:54:35 PM »
QD bushings are interesting but not readily available in UK/Ireland. I suppose I could have a pulley for a ribbed belt made with a key? The LT1 is quite small, it's build 10 and according to the manual can be adjusted from 1000 to 1500 RPM via the governor. I'd prefer not to mess around with weights just yet as it seems I'd need special tools for seals etc. As it would only be used occasionally maybe the taper bush pulley would do? I agree about the lower RPM the little petrol generator I currently use is 3000 RPM and extremely noisy. Thanks for the information, JD

567
Lister Based Generators / Re: Horsepower calculation
« on: March 04, 2016, 08:29:28 AM »
Thank you very much, man I wish I'd listened more at school. Would I be better buying a 6" pulley and running at 1500 RPM? Does anyone have any views on taper lock pulleys? Would a single belt be enough? The fridge is 'A' rated so I assume it wouldn't be too greedy?

568
Lister Based Generators / Horsepower calculation
« on: March 03, 2016, 11:11:36 PM »
Hi guys, I have a little lister LT1 engine and a 2.4 kw alternator that I want to drive via a belt. This is only for power outages and will need to power two 20 watt low energy bulbs, a fridge, and a 400 watt UPS for the television. I have a 5" round billet about 40mm thick that i'd like to get a pulley made out of. The engine manual says 2.5 BHP at 1000 RPM and 4.0 BHP at 1500 RPM. for 3000 RPM on the alternator I'd need 1250 RPM on the flywheel. Is there any method of calculating how many HP it's producing at that speed? Apologies for the convoluted wording! Thank you

569
Engines / Re: Lister LT1 problems
« on: March 03, 2016, 09:13:02 PM »
Thanks for the reply. There were 3 small holes and a pinhole so not too bad. I got stuff called EP200 epoxy putty and filled the holes. I will sand it tomorrow and cover it with tank leak seal. The fuel filter housing is damaged so I'll have to try some kind of repair on that, my skills donít extend to making a new fuel tank unfortunately.

570
Engines / Re: Lister LT1 problems
« on: March 02, 2016, 08:06:04 PM »
Finally got fuel in the tank, for a minute it's got a few holes and the filter housing is cracked. An old sheet under it, 30 swings to circulate the oil and off she went. Fuel is also leaking at the pump, the union is cracked and it's 5/16 Whitworth as far as I can see. A local engineer is making a new one. Any suggestions on tank repairs? Braze? Leakfix? Epoxy?

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