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Messages - dieselspanner

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511
Hi Starfire

Does 'Starfire' have anything to do with BSA singles?

I'm well impressed with your efforts and success, I'm at the completely stripped down stage with a 3-5-6/1 'Bitza' that looks as if it's been sabotaged with a handful of sand in the crank, as that puts me firmly in the 'nothing to loose' club I've gotta have a go!

45 years or so ago I was a 'Saturday boy' with a firm that repaired tannery machinery in Northamptonshire (UK), scraped white metal bearings were common on machinery that was well old back then, Cheap repairs for the cheap 'uns was the name of the game. As the 'nipper' all I ever got to do was polish the shafts with emery cloth, looks like my turn with the scraper has arrived!

Looking forward to more......

Cheers Stef

512
Thanks both,

Bushes it is then!

I'll start looking around and pricing my options. I live in the French Pyrenees so what ever I do will involve shipping unless there's a decent engineering works I can drop on that won't cost the earth, if the rate for repairing cars is an indicator I'll be lucky!

I rang a contact in the UK and sorting the crank out without welding, grinding back to well undersized and having white metal bearings made to suit was quoted to the north of 350 so unless I can drop on a second hand one Indian looks like the way to go.

There's a company by the name of Dev Precision Engineers on the web, looks like they have most everything, does anyone know of them?

Meanwhile I've got my head around the governor mechanism, the manual showing only one bob weight confused me! and have had the crank case boiling in a 40 gallon drum with caustic soda to strip out the old oil, grease and sand, should pull the paint off too.

Thanks once more

Stef


513
Hi All

Well the crank looks like a write off big end trashed, mains iffy, most other bits seem worth saving, the question I have is :-

As I have to spend big money on new parts, is is converting to roller bearings a good idea or do I stay with what I have?

And if anyone out the has a second hand crank, in decent condition I'd be pleased to here from them!

Cheers Stef

514
Hi All

Having said that I would post more in the thread 'Lister CS 3/1 recommissioning' I now know I was wrong!!

Time to start a new thread!!

Yesterday I thought I was out of time but today I had a couple of hours left after my chores and dug deeper into the '3/1 Lister'

The injector and pump have been dry for many years and well may be beyond redemption, red rust in the pipe, and every where else.

So I pulled the head and Mark, (Millman56) was right on, it's got a 4 1/2 bore. Amazingly, given the state of the lower half of the engine the bore is clean ans unmarked, no rust and a minimal 'step' at the top. I've not yet pulled the piston and 'rod. the cylinder looks savable, and hopefully the piston too

Two of our 'guests' finished skiing early and before last light we had both fly wheels off as well a flat belt pulley (that looked like a weeks work at first sight). The fly wheels are the spoked type.

The head is a 'dry' injector type, with the later type knob on the COV, the crankcase has a plate that says the cooling water must be drained before removing the injector, the ID plate says '3HP, 600 RPM, No. CS 9569, Spec 208/3H'

From David Edgingtons book I believe it to be a 3/1, formerly with a 'wet' injector, hopper cooled from around 1933 with a top end from a later 5 or 6/1

From the Instruction Book and Parts List (Book 103/666) it would seem there's no difference in the governor parts, only the injector pump changes for the bigger engines. From the book I don't understand how the governor works, if some one can point me in the direction of enlightenment I'd be grateful!

I wish to restore the engine and use it in anger, a 5 kva power head would be nice, so I guess ending up with a 6/1 would be favourite, I'm not bothered if the green paint is 3 shades wrong or I've used a modern injector and pump, the odd metric fastener won't distress me!!.
Reliability, longevity and to some extent efficiency are important, I'd also like to use recycled sump oil and WVO.

Where should I go from here?

All comments, advice, and support welcomed,

Cheers Stef

515
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister CS 3/1 recommissioning
« on: March 18, 2015, 10:15:55 PM »
Well it's arrived, and I'm amazed at the accuracy of the observations of fellow members!

The rockers are held down by a central block with 2 different sized bolts - I still can't see that on the Ebay photo!
And there was a rodents nest, complete with empty nut shells and bedding, it was between the valve springs!

There was 2 gallons of water in the sump and the oil was heavily contaminated with grease and grit.there's 30 - 40 thou of play on the big end, a few thou on one main bearing and next to no compression. That's as far as I've got so far, the grease has trapped the grit every where the crank has managed to fling it inside the crank case so a complete strip down seems to be the only way forward.

My best guess is that someone has poured a handful of sand into the sump and after it had done it's worst another kind soul added the grease to stop the knock from the big end.

I'll post more when the ski season ends and I can get stuck in properly

Thanks to all

Stef

516
Original Lister Cs Engines / Lister CS 3/1 recommissioning
« on: March 08, 2015, 09:44:50 AM »
Hi All

After joining the site and having the error of my ways pointed out, ref converting petrol Listers to diesel I 'won' what appears to be a 3/1. Many thanks to those who set me right

 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221688475214?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

I'm now waiting for a friend, who's driving down for a weeks skiing, to drag it from the Welsh boarders to the Pyrenees, I'm learning you need mates when you develop an interest in Listers!

Whilst waiting I've trolled the site and shamelessly cut and pasted (plagiarised, truth be told) a recommissioning crib sheet, thanks again to the guys who posted on various topics.
I'll recycle it here and would be grateful for any further contributions / additions to help save me from myself. I realise it may not 'cough' at all, in which case I'll soon be well up the list of posters

Many thanks

Stef



Lister recommissioning start up


Push down on each valve stem to make sure they are free before turning the flywheels to eliminate breaking a rocker arm. Check tappet clearance.

Fill the rocker shaft greaser and purge out the old grease.

Change the oil!

Before starting remove the crankcase door and flood the big end and mains with oil from a pump oil can. Operate the hand lever on the oil pump to make sure oil is reaching the mains.

Fill the recess in the head around the valves with oil. There is a little screw near the tappets marked 'oil' , remove that and pour in about a qtr pint of oil.

Use a compressor and solvent should you find the oil lines need sludgy oil cleaned out of them.

Don't forget the 2 screw heads right above the main bearings on the top of the housing (inboard of both flywheels) This puts oil right to the crankshaft helping the lubing there.

Fill the pushrod and tappet tops with oil.

Change the fuel filter. Be prepared to bleed the fuel system. Clean fuel tank as appropriate.

Check the operation of the fuel pump, including that the rack moves properly, and check and lubricate the external governor and stop/start linkage.

The injection pump may be stuck tight with ancient fuel deposits

Cooling system, rad or tank cooled ? Unless the engine was drained down when it was last used there could be frost damage , check carefully.

Flush the engine water ways. Check the water hoses. If rad cooled fill with new anti-freeze solution or drain, before laying up, change the fan belt and service the greasers on the fan shaft or oil the bearings if the later type are fitted.

Check function of starting handle, clean rust from shaft, just in case she fires first time!!


517
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Start o matic Shipping weight
« on: January 31, 2015, 11:35:31 AM »
Thanks for that, lads,

3/4 of a ton (one of your diddy US ones!) +/- seems about it, anyway looks like it'll be ok for a pallet.

Cheers All

Stef

518
Original Lister Cs Engines / Start o matic Shipping weight
« on: January 30, 2015, 09:29:52 PM »
Hi All

Would anyone have an idea on the all up shipping weight for CS 8/1, base, control panel and generator, before I put a bid I can't honour on Ebay!!

Many thanks

Stef

519
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister J type conversion
« on: January 26, 2015, 04:09:42 PM »
Thanks for that.
It's a bit of a long tale, it starts with a mate, an old time steam 'Cheif Engineer, looking at a 90 year old barge in Holland, with a J type main engine and a CS donkey motor forward, for the cargo handling gear.

We live in the Pyrenees and run a ski chalet / B&B and when we move from here we'd like to go 'off grid', there's a world of opportunity up here.

Looking on the www for information on the CS Lister led me down the Startomatic path. Then on Ebay there was an L type with what looks like a frost damaged top end, in Bridport, one of my old stamping grounds

(http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251806210415?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

As a slow time project I wondered was it possible / practical to start from there, obviously not!! and thanks for setting me straight.

Is there anywhere else I should be looking for a CS 6/1 in rebuildable condition? - France,and the Pyrenees in particular doesn't seem like a target rich environment!

520
Original Lister Cs Engines / Lister J type conversion
« on: January 26, 2015, 10:45:36 AM »
Hi All

I'm very new to the 'old engine' world, so please cut me a little slack if this is an often asked, or plain stupid question!

Is it possible to convert a L type Lister to diesel using CS parts or J type parts?

(After more digging on the web I realise the original engine is an L type, told you I was new!)

Cheers

Stef

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