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« on: May 18, 2006, 03:34:54 PM »
Geno, if and when you prepare your drill guide, I suggest drilling 3/16 up from the bottom of your drill guide and clamping the guide in when drilling, finish size of drilling should be 3/8, this should remove most or all of the bottom of the key remnant. The Metro we've been working on had a very rough slot bottom and combined with the broached texture of the cast iron flywheel, it had a death grip on the key. It appears that what may be occuring is the end of the key hits the ramp at the end of the crank key slot and almost peens itself into the space. On this unit the crank slot ends inside the hub, so of course we overdrilled depth wise, drilling into the crank beyond the end of the slot, as well as trenching the bottom of the slot. This should be relativley easy to TIG repair using vibratory stress relieving to reduce warping of the crank, along with re-machining of the slot. When we set up our drill guide we centered on the what we thought was the correct height from the bottom of the slot, we were wrong, now we'll most lilely be repairing both side of the crank. We will try and run just a bit higher and not as deep on the other side. Oh bye the way, after final drilling we also rocked the flywheel back and forth to collapse the key, luck was on our side here as the flywheel was not real tight on the crank, the key came out in 4 pieces, the corners. We have been screwing with these flywheels for 3 weeks and used about a quart and a half of Kroil, 5 lbs. of dry ice, 6 drill bits, 2 taps, 3 pieces of threaded bar, a drilled 4 lb. piece of round bar as a slide, a hand full of nuts and washers, several pieces of 3/8 flat stock for wedges and puller bars, 1-1/2 liters of Jamesons, about 750 ml of Baileys, 6 pots of coffee and a case and a half of Miller Lite, GOOD LUCK!
Paul
Possible point of error, we did not pour any of the Jamesons on the crank, key or flywheel.