Mo, you might look for a mixer for a 1-1/2 or 3 hp fairbanks, circa 1922. These were split mixers, 1 side you put gas in to start and warm (about 3 oz) the other side was a siphon kero feed, each side has jet adjustments. Sid is right about the smell, if adjusted just right, its barely tolerable. Oh, avoid the mixers with water feed, they were a problem, and were abandoned by most mfg as to much trouble.

Paul

Add Tech Line Coatings to the list, I've used their products for years. Some coatings require baking to finish, Do not use your cooking oven for this, get a used electric oven at the curb, your taste buds and stomach will thank you.

Paul

Geno, if and when you prepare your drill guide, I suggest drilling  3/16 up from the bottom of your drill guide and clamping the guide in when drilling, finish size of drilling should be 3/8, this should remove most or all of the bottom of the key remnant. The Metro we've been working on had a very rough slot bottom and combined with the broached texture of the cast iron flywheel, it had a death grip on the key. It appears that what may be occuring is the end of the key hits the ramp at the end of the crank key slot and almost peens itself into the space. On this unit the crank slot ends inside the hub, so of course we overdrilled depth wise, drilling into the crank beyond the end of the slot, as well as trenching the bottom of the slot. This should be relativley easy to TIG repair using vibratory stress relieving to reduce warping of the crank, along with re-machining of the slot. When we set up our drill guide we centered on the what we thought was the correct height from the bottom of the slot, we were wrong, now we'll most lilely be repairing both side of the crank. We will try and run just a bit higher and not as deep on the other side. Oh bye the way, after final drilling we also rocked the flywheel back and forth to collapse the key, luck was on our side here as the flywheel was not real tight on the crank, the key came out in 4 pieces, the corners. We have been screwing with these flywheels for 3 weeks and used about a quart and a half of Kroil, 5 lbs. of dry ice, 6 drill bits, 2 taps, 3 pieces of threaded bar, a drilled 4 lb. piece of round bar as a slide, a hand full of nuts and washers, several pieces of 3/8 flat stock for wedges and puller bars, 1-1/2 liters of Jamesons, about 750 ml of Baileys, 6 pots of coffee and a case and a half of Miller Lite, GOOD LUCK!

Paul

Possible point of error, we did not pour any of the Jamesons on the crank, key or flywheel.

List, well we've gone and broken the heads off both Gib keys on my buddies Metro. Note: to accomplish this we did the following. First, we stripped all paint from keys and crank, as well as the keyway itself, washed down the area with thinner, and dried. Second, soaked both keys for 4 days with Kroil, occasionally tapping the keys w/ a small hammer (about the same amount of force used to carefully center punch something) and adding more Kroil front and from crankcase side as well. We used a piece of 3/8 X 2 X 6 steel, split lengthwise diagonally as tapered wedges. Tapped the wedges together between the flywheel and the head of the Gib,with the wedge closest to the flywheel as the movable wedge. Tensioned the Gib for a couple of days, again with liberal feedings of Kroil. After 3 days of increasing pressure, the heads of course snapped off, with the failure point being at the base of the key head. Note that the face of the wedge against the head of the key was smooth, with carefully broken edge to clear the 90 deg intersection of head to shank of key. We have now made a drill guide and drilled the remnants of the keys to a depth about 3/16 past the center of the flywheel, carefully tapped 5/16-18, constructed a slide hammer using same threaded bar (B-7) and a slide weight of approx. 3-1/2 lbs. NO JOY!
we have considered packing the key area w/ dry ice to hopefully shrink the area some to reduce the grip, please help!

Paul

University of Oregon Chem dept., though only a trickle of oil comes through the credit card sized device, they can be stacked like cards to generate much larger quantities of product. Oil and alochol go into one end, (through different channels), and out the other end comes the magic elixer and waste alcohol. A suitcase sized could, sopposedly generate 10k Gallons annually. OK so where and when can we get it?
Paul

Oh how I hate you, a real Lister, right around the corner from me, and no notice, or well. If you get annoyed with the project, E-mail me, we'll talk.

Paul