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Messages - lev-l-lok

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16
Engines / Re: Radiatior suggestions by car model?
« on: July 29, 2007, 02:14:42 PM »
Chris, try for an old (50-60's) MB non turbo diesel radiator. They have the large top tank, and hopefully won't be to large, you may be able to skip the fan as well due to the increased size. Also 60s Dodge Colt, or mid 50s MGA, might be smaller and thinner. Oh, on second thought, the MG is thicker, ie: more rows so depending on what you feel you need, this might be best in your location.

Paul

17
Engines / Re: forced induction & torque converter
« on: July 29, 2007, 02:05:40 PM »
I know its gas motor tech, but, would a stepped diameter (header) type exhaust pipe work? It could reduce pipe length, and arrive at the same torque / RPM point, before emptying into the expansion chamber / muffler. Are there any programs for this type of exhaust?

Paul

18
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Waste Oil Purifier
« on: June 08, 2007, 01:21:06 PM »
Chris, got a sump pump?
Paul

19
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: My not so quiet Changfa 195
« on: April 18, 2007, 04:05:43 AM »
John, Ohh, Ohh, I would try a supercharged GM passenger car air cleaner assembly. Seems it might provide some impressive silencing.

Paul

20
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: 165F Changfa reassembly
« on: April 18, 2007, 03:56:39 AM »
Dutchman, I'm fairly certain the shiney (chromed) ring is the top ring in the stack. The only possible GOTCHA is an step or taper, which I'm sorta sure Mobile Bob can provide better guidance on.
 Press on, your on the home stretch, good luck.

Paul

21
Generators / Re: ST 5 Arrives
« on: April 09, 2007, 03:49:35 PM »
Hi Doug,
    When I reviewed your photos it appeared that the damage runs from the right side of the 12 o'clock support strut to the upper side of the 3 o'clock support. If the semi circle does not iintersect the bearing boss diameter, it may be better to just silver solder the broken piece together (lower temp repair less distortion), and call it done. It seems this area of the end bell is only to support the strap closure for the brushes, and if this is true, you may be better off staying with the current bell for concentricity reasons. If the crack does indeed intrude upon the bearing boss, all bets are off. hope you and Pat can come to a resolution of this problem.
   Please note the above thoughts and opinions are heavely influenced by to much coffee and as such could be complete hogwash!

Regards, Paul

22
Phil, sorry, I didn't check George's site to verify stock. It also appears that George's last design did not have a stub shaft, but used a drilled and tapped Lovejoy coupler half that fit into a machined recess for concentricity. You might try sourcing Kubota industrial for a PTO adapter, they have 2 different sizes, the part # for the 1115 Changfa is, I believe 14943-84413. The shaft size on that adapter is 46mm dia. X 100mm long, might be possible to turn it down to whatever diameter you require and rekey.
Greasy, Since Utterpower is no longer producing the adapter, maybe he would be willing to share what rotor was used to make his earlier adapter.

Paul

23
Hi guys, Mohomad (sic) at motors_generators_and_stuff has a cushioned direct drive coupler for the Changfas, pretty good price to, I'll prolly get one for my 1115/ST10 for fine tuning, but I really like George's Lovejoy style coupler better. Most likeley I'll run the cheap one for a while and get george's to finish the final configuration and sell the cheaper one. Motors-Generators is in Columbus, OH. I hope he doesn't mind but his number is 614-901-0527. He'll sent you a PDF of the coupler.
      No financial interest bla bla bla.

24
Lister Based Generators / Re: direct drive methods?
« on: January 21, 2007, 05:52:57 PM »
Chuck, a drive shaft or half shaft is the same as hard direct coupling, IE, no flex or ability to absorb shock or misalignment. I'm not sure about the load carrying potential of this, but in a pinch you could use something like an old steering shaft coupling, IE, two three legged couplings with a piece of truck tire sidewall connecting them, The steering shaft coupling would make up for any slight misalignment, but more importnatly, provide the necessary shock absorbsion. Yeah, yeah, I caught my bad, the drive shaft or half shaft will correct for misalignment, but, they require a minimum off axis of several degrees to properly self lubricate

25
Lister Based Generators / Re: ST head voltage regulator
« on: December 30, 2006, 03:56:09 PM »
Andy, first page of George's site, scroll down to People, Jeff Maier. Taht is, I believe the circuit you are looking for. I seem to recall one other circuit as well, if I can find it, I'll let you know. I'm just now starting to go through the Changfa and the 10kw, so I'll be wanting that info as well.

26
Engines / Re: Diesel Engines
« on: December 24, 2006, 02:48:03 PM »
Dave, check the Dixie Chopper site and see what diesel engine they offer. You may be able to source one of them, uh thats assuming your ZT mower is of similer construction. Happy holidays.

27
Lister Based Generators / Re: ST head voltage regulator
« on: December 24, 2006, 02:32:17 PM »
Copybell, I believe Jeff's schematic is on both the Utterpower site and CD. Good hunting, and happy holidays.
Let us know how it works at smoothing the sine wave. I think several members have used this circuit with some success, hopefully they'll respond.

28
General Discussion / Re: Member in need---
« on: December 19, 2006, 03:18:11 PM »
The snail is on its way,has a few bucks for Ken. If he reads this, thank you for your help when I first joined the forum. He patiently worked with me on possibly buying a Roid in his area, to far away to pick up, but Ken did his best. Thanks again for your help, our best wishes for a safe and calm new year.

29
Everything else / Re: Hydraulic PTO for auxillaries
« on: August 09, 2006, 02:30:01 PM »
Rtqii, Look into the drive systems for hydrostatic drive mowers and tractors, lots of flow at pressure for torque and rpms for your compressor. you will prolly need one of the tractor variety hyd. motors and pumps to belt up to the required compressor rpm and hp. You may be able to find a rollover for parts

Paul

30
List, Croc boy (Rick) forgets, (it's the Jamesons) that he used the 2X4 method to rock the flywheels free after the drilling out of the gib keys. 2X4 to secure one flywheel to crankcase, rotate flywheel to be removed, inertia will be your friend. Caution, clean exposed shaft and debur carefully, lots of Kroil soaking. Works like a charm.
Paul

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