If we are just trying to make the thread longer.

Oliver90, you the same RAB as the one with the CNC Toolkit for use with Gmax?

Nothing says a tank heater has to use electricty.
http://www.google.com/patents?id=MY8vAAAAEBAJ&dq=4192274

http://www.biodiesel.org/buyingbiodiesel/distributors/default.shtm

I think if I were going to do a hydraulic drive system on a boat the hydraulic fluid at the top of the list would be water.
Every hydraulic system I have seen has had some small leaks, at quick couplers, filters changes, etc. and if a hose blows you can pump out a lot of oil in a real short time.  Makes a mess in the boat and some of it is going to end up in the water the boat is floating in.

In a small boat I would likely just use a normal water pump on the engine or maybe two pumps so you can select high volume low pressure or high pressure low volume.  Then just put a water turbine on the prop shaft, a second one for reverse, then select different combinations of pumps and nozzles for different speed ratios.

A 12 volt alternator can easily charge a 24 volt battery you just have to replace the regulator.

Or just connect the field up thru a rheostat and manually control the rate of charge, this works better on with an engine that is working near its max output and most importantly does not have a governor.  That way as the battery volts come up the engine speed increases to match while the amps drop a bit, in effect you have a constant power charger.

You do need to stay nearby or wire up some kind of auto shutdown or you will over charge the batteries, likely will now and then anyway.

Or if the regulator has a separate voltage sense wire you can fudge it and connecting the sense wire to the 12 volt tap on the battery pack while the alternator output feeds the entire pack.

Maybe not the best ways but there is always some way to make things functional.

They do not really say what size keyway is in the metric sizes larger then 40mm which they say is 12mm but you can call and ask.
The bushings they sell will likely all have whatever is the standard size key and if you want something else it will cost.

I have a 25Kw gen, do not remember what size the shaft was but 48 sounds about right, I ordered one and it fit I never even measured the key.
Worst thing you would have to make a stepped key, which is going to be your cheapest option anyway if you have a non standard size.

I have not understood the hang up on dynamic balancing flywheels for these engines.
There have been one hell of a lot of 24" grinding wheels spun up a lot faster then a lister that have produced very good finished parts with nothing more then a static balance.

On something as narrow as these flywheels there is not much difference between a static and dynamic balance as long as both are done to the same level of balance, at least nothing significant in view of that big piston pounding up and down.

The only thing I can think of is that people tend to have a dynamic balance done on a machine that is more sensitive then what they would have done a static balance with.

Static balance being defined as single plane
Dynamic balance being defined as multi-plane

http://www.dynamicbalancing.co.uk/whatis.html

See ya Monday

Likely not the cheapest but it will give you some numbers to run.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?numrec=20&lastrec=120&sort=1&keyword=EMRC&catname=electric&UID=2007080714385039