I need a quntity of 4  BSF bolts 3/8" x 1"and nuts. These would be 20 TPI and 55 degree thread form. Yes, I know I can get them from 13500 places in GB    Am hoping for some on this side of the ocean.

We own a close relative, ( I think? ) an SL1 and starting used to be an adveture close to what you discribed. It would hit as evidenced by black smoke and diesel knock and if warm out it would chug and smoke black sometimes finaly reving up, others times chugging back down to a stop. When coool, say less than 50 F it would never start just kock from ignition and smoke black. We fiddled with everything trying to cure it and one day while looking through the manual I noticed that Lister reccomended a very light grade oil, 10W in those (at least the SL)  I thought what the heck and tried it. First start was same thing but once we got it going and the 10W actualy on the moving parts. it fixed our starting problems, it now starts easily.  The 10W also fixed another probem we had, heavy slobber out the exhaust.

One I built last winter. A little complicated for off grid usage I think but this engine is a portable power unit on a cart. As Gary said Lister built factory radiator engines. It sat high over top one of the flywheel sand had a fan driven by belt.

 

Took a video tonight, son has to download it and I will post and it wil be LOTS easier for those I confuse with my rambles here.  I am not familiar with Quinns method so I cannot comment on it.  And to tell the truth  I have never paid any attention to where the fuel pump lobe or tappet is when tiiming the cam gears. It is always in the right place when I spill time thats all I know. Valve are set at the other TDC, not at overlap. Actualy  they can be set anywhere on the compression or powerstroke before the cam starts to open the  valves but just saying TDC makes it soo much easier to state without 350 words,

Ya, don't think I would drop 2 C-notes to find out either. Be careful about using differences side to side in bump clearance as the sole judge of how square the block was machined. I have seen 3 differant causes of that so far and can think of a couple others that I have yet to see. Besides what you mention in one case the surface was parallel to the crank but the center line for the jug was off set to one side so bad the rod had to flex to get the piston in the bore. Correcting the bore location not being an option I had to shim the gear side main bearing (TRB type)out on the crank .050 and use one thin gasket on that side and .050 of extra shims on the short side in order to shove the crank over far enough to get the throw centered close enough to eliminate the bind. Have also had one cylinder block out of square bad at the lower end and that it messed up the squish measurements otherwise it would have slipped by unnoticed. One thing I have been doing that helps point me in the correct direction is to use the bore camera ( a mirror and a light would do same) and look up at the wrist pin, rod and piston bosses before disassembly. If jammed to one side problems exist I also turn the engines over and watch. Theone I mentioned with the non-square jug would start out at the bottom fairly close to center and I ran the piston up it would go to one side, Wonder how long that small end bushing would have lasted? As a double check I always install the piston and rod in the jug and drop it over the studs without any shims and check two things. One the rod bearing must go over the journal with out having to force it one direction or the other and two  look at the joint between the crankcase and jug tobe sure it is sitting flat without a gap on one side.   Like Gary always warns us, take nothing for granted, or Indian QC will get ya 

First the linkage must be non-binding, you check this by removeing the spring and moving the rack back and forth via the lower governor arm, the one the spring attaches to. Any noticable bind or catches will very much affect the action of the governor.  You fix problems by filing flat areas and emery cloth on the round areas and light oil. Once this is done you wil get the very best responce with a spring in which tha rate changes the least amount withn the needed amount of movement. To get the least amount of rate change you use the weakest spring that will give the required RPM and make it as long as possible within reason. I improved my 6/1 governor droop (the highly technical word for the drop in RPM under load)  considerably by installing a hardware store spring  about 6" long that will just barely give 650 RPM, my engine runs 635 to give 60 hertz.  You attach the left end to the block by whatever method is handy as the pin is no good at this point, I made a bracket from starp that extends from the bolt on the cam cover. You can drill and tap the block and screw a bolt in the hole or use bailing wire to the wall 

Wow those are nice filter units, my experiance with Parker is the name goes on nothing but top notch qualty.

As for the originals they seem to put in whatever is handy when the engine is assembled? I have many "eliements" in my collection, (poorly made) sneaky snakes, rotten paper, screen door screen wrapped up and tossed in the can, even nothing at all.

    ;DFuels must be exceptionaly clean in India??