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Messages - 38ac

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1606
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Cold start oil cup
« on: January 23, 2013, 05:00:26 PM »
Thanks Gary,
Now that I know how it works I can first try a bit more force to break it loose.

1607
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Cold start oil cup
« on: January 23, 2013, 02:45:43 PM »
My SL1 has one of those and it is stuck. I removed the entire unit from the manifold, heated it with a propane torch, soaked it for months with Blaster and still stuck?  Must confess that I dont know how to work it? Does it simply pull out or threaded or ??
Thanks Butch

1608
Listeroid Engines / Re: Bearing oilers and center tube on 8/1
« on: January 15, 2013, 06:21:43 PM »
While I agree that the Indian pumps leave a lot to be desired the seats and balls are easy and cheaply fixed.

As for the system being better or more reliable without the pump I disagree. Splash alone wins hands down for simplicity but there is a big trade off that few talk about. That being with splash only and your oil level drops less than a quart from proper levels you have zero lubrication, just a big sump full of oil doing nothing. With the two shelf system and pump as designed by Lister you have a constant oil level at the dipper at all times unless you run the engine entirely out of oil or the oil pumps fails.

 All in all its probably a toss up?  Added complication due to the pump, or the chance that your oil level could drop 1/2" during use. Either causes the same problem, zero lubrication. Bushing main engines must run a pump, if you have a TRB engine you may take your pick of which event you feel  is least likely to happen, and go with it  ;)

1609
Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / 12HP Witte diesel, hurry!
« on: January 09, 2013, 02:46:14 AM »
Over on Smok Stak, wont be there for long I bet.
http://www.enginads.com/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/77307/cat/all

1610
General Discussion / Re: Type K pulley cutting tool?
« on: January 08, 2013, 05:20:41 PM »
Yup, just as they said, grind a single point tool and Thob's step by step from there  is right on ;)  I went with an automotive belt on my 6/1 and they are different than the K series. . A standard 60 degree threading insert was so close to fitting the grooves on an existing pulley I had in the shop that I diidnt bother grinding a bit.

1611
Generators / Re: ST3 vs 5 for a 6/1?
« on: January 07, 2013, 05:17:44 PM »
The engine is mounted on a cart and used to power several pieces of equipment via flat belt. Its loads are varied from nearly nothing to all it will pull.   The head will be mounted down and driven the same way. Not the ultimate plan for loadings but I rather imagine it will out live me.  ;)

1612
Generators / Re: ST3 vs 5 for a 6/1?
« on: January 07, 2013, 02:27:40 AM »
Sorry, A bit more info would have helped you guys but you kind of hit a cord with the parts deal. Guess I'll order me up a 5KW. We have a farm property that is off-grid and we just need to be able to run a few lights now and then, maybe a drill, grinder. Main thing I need to do is run a battery charger for the tractors and such.

Thanks.

1613
Generators / ST3 vs 5 for a 6/1?
« on: January 06, 2013, 03:01:21 AM »
I am putting together another generator that will run by a 6/1 and only used for occassional stand by 110 V service. Will be wired 110 only so no balance problems to worry about.  ST3 is $100 cheaper and lots lighter than a ST-5. so shipping should be cheaper too. Money is not all important but over kill is waste.  We have a ST-5 on our other6/1 but it is wired 220 and I wanted some extra to better accomdate unbalnced loads.  Will a 3 do? or should I just quit trying to be a cheap skate and get a 5?

1614
Listeroid Engines / Re: Camshaft end tapered pin
« on: January 06, 2013, 02:52:03 AM »
what can I say, bad day on the keyboards, sorry, ,, again ::)

Yes Part number is 98390A343   for 1 1/2" long number 6 pins
I bought the reverse spiral reamer 2991A24 52.22  since I was building the entire camshaft, ya the price is a bit steep. Either of the spiral reamers is miles ahead of a straight flute.

1615
Listeroid Engines / Re: Camshaft end tapered pin
« on: January 06, 2013, 12:16:49 AM »
#6 X 1 1/2" part number 98390A335 works for the cam lobes, and end collar and can work on the cam gear in a pinch.  Sorry for the garbled speech earlier typing on the Blackberry is tough for fat fingers, excuse for the day.

1616
Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Re: Another 12-2 on E-bay
« on: January 05, 2013, 02:47:50 AM »
But $1300.00 cheaper than the first time he listed it  8)

1617
Listeroid Engines / Re: Camshaft end tapered pin
« on: January 05, 2013, 02:46:25 AM »
Free sand you didn't pay for yet you complain, I don't understand people? ???   ;D

The taper pins do not have to be replaced when removed when fitted correctly do not have to hammered in like Jr gibb keys. Basically if the ends were not beat to oblivion by the Indian "fitting" method of beating into submission and the sides are decent you re use them . Good thing is they are a readily available item known as a #6 tapered pin and they and the reamer to fit them are sold by McMaster Carr. If all you need is a pin drop me a PM with your mailing address and one will show up.

1618
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: BSP Fittings
« on: January 04, 2013, 11:45:35 AM »
Working on cooling system or fuel? I love Mcmaster Carr and use them a lot but there are much cheaper ways to plumb up a cooling system then buying BPT brass fittings from them. Although they don't directly interchange and a mix/match joint WILL leak at medium or higher pressures you can use plain ole American pipe on a Listeroid cooling system. All I do is is Rector Seal on the flange adapter and never a problem. If prim and properness wont allow that you can order a couple BPT to NPT adapters from McMaster-Carrand  or TACO 2-bolt pump flanges are available that require very minor work with a file and have NPT threads. Go to TACO's web site and find the part number that fits the bolt pattern and pipe size you want and then punch that in an Ebay search. I have bought several sets for water and the intake and exhaust flanges for less than $10 a pair.

1619
Generators / Re: Kill a watt meter how-to for the 6/1
« on: January 02, 2013, 02:10:01 PM »
Sorry if I missed it but what are you doing with it? Off grid or stand by usage during outages?  If making rocket science out of an ST is fun for you than have fun doing it. Myself, I am into engines but generators bore me to tears. Just gimme some power OK  ;D  The things these guys do with the ST really does  amaze me, I'm just not into it if you know what I mean?

 If your like me and run (2) STs for stand by usage  protection of the head doesn't need to be complicated.  I am wired for 220 because I have a deep well pump and it simplifies transfer between grid and back up. Because we never know who might turn what on and what might be already running when they do it I protected each winding with a properly sized breaker prior to the main breaker which is also of correct total amps. Actually they are the same amperage as the 220 max amps is the same as each 110V leg. So, if I overload one side of the 110 I am twice protected, is it needed? who knows I am NOT a 'lectric kind of guy.  I am not certain that a 6/1 has enough power to damage a 5 KW head even if all the load was on one winding but that's another study for another day.  My STs do not like it one bit when the loads get out of balance too far and groan loudly in complaint. Not sure if the groaning hurts them but I don't like hearing it.  An AMp probe was used to check things out when we were testing and we moved a few things around that are commonly used during an outage.  Now if you do not need 220 V George has a set up that really should be the cats meow for back up where the head is wired for 110V only (which the head loves and you have no balance worries)  AND you can still use it to back feed the home grid panel  by feeding both sides of the buss 110, not two legs but same one. If something wired for 220 happens to be turned on nothing happens as the potential is the same on both legs.  Far better for somebody smarter than me to explain it but If I had no 220 needs I would re do my set up like this.

Good luck, have fun and be safe,
Butch

1620
Listeroid Engines / Re: 8/1 Water jacket door
« on: January 02, 2013, 01:22:18 PM »

 Why are the holes there? Long story.  Originally the doors were on both sides of the block and the filter head also mounted to it on the pump side with four bolts. On the other side a drip can for injector return was mounted for many years. Also were versions that were hopper cooled and the hopper attached there. Some Indian engines are faithful to the originals and some are greatly simplified. I have seen Indian block castings that have both door openings, some with one, some have none and just have a cast boss with two holes for an Indian filter set up. A "universal part" would have both openings if needed for an original type installation but also have  parts and pieces to blank of opening and holes not used as typical in the clones.  I have such a part and sounds like what you have.

The reason for the screws is they blank off unused holes in certain applications. I think their reasoning for installing the plug screws is the gasket would be real thin around the holes if nothing was inserted in the holes and likely to leak?  To tell you the truth I cant remember if I threw them away or installed them in a way that would actually be useful which is thread sealed and  installed to the not interfere with the joint. I can look at one of mine and look if you wish.

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