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Messages - MacGyver

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1
General Discussion / Re: Workin the roid this morning
« on: April 16, 2009, 06:11:11 PM »
Hi Steve,

Yes the blew pretty hard yesterday. The power never even flickered here.  ;D

Yeah, yeah....  you and your solar panels.
If you're trying to make me jealous, it's working.  :P

Yeah, it was windy as hell here. I guess I should go out for a walk this weekend and see how many trees are now firewood.

2
General Discussion / Re: Workin the roid this morning
« on: April 16, 2009, 05:52:22 PM »
Well done. It's a good feeling to be self sufficient.

Quote:
"TV, refrigerator, and lights on, and the wife and I had 2 computers, air blower for the fireplace, lights, fridge, and kegerator"

You were able to run all this on 2.5kw ? or did you have to do some fancy juggling ?


No juggling required.

I figured the following *approximate* values for stuff we were running:

Mom's TV + VCR - <200w (TV measures 110watts w/kill a watt. VCR not measured)
Computers - 1 @ 250w, 1 @ 200w (worst case, measured with kill-a-watt)
Refrigerators - 1 @ <200w, 1 @ < 300w (measured with kill-a-watt)
Kegerator -  < 130w (measured with kill-a-watt)
Fireplace blower - < 120w (measured with kill-a-watt)
Pellet stove -  run= 150w,  start= 500w (start up current draw lasts about 2 minutes)
Lights - 150 - 250w ?

Total  = ~1800w. (possibly less)  Not so bad. And that's assuming that all 3 refrigeration devices are on at once. The roid never complained, the voltage and frequency were happy, and there was still plenty of rack left to open on the IP.

Our power was off for 23-1/4 hours and the generator ran for 14 hours with no problems. Not sure about fuel usage yet. My tank holds 8 gallons and I haven't filled it back up.

Our neighbor up the road has a 5KW propane powered generator with electric start. Oddly, it doesn't have any provision for hand cranking. No rope start or nuthin. When the power went out he went out to start the generator, but the battery was low and wouldn't start it. So he grabbed the battery out of his car and some jumper cables and hooked 'em up. He still couldn't get the generator to start and ran his car battery down trying. So he sat in the cold and dark and couldn't even leave the house because his car battery was dead.   :-[
Shoot, if he'd called me I would have been happy to put his battery on my charger (roid powered of course) for him.   ;D


It turns out that the power was out because a tree wiped out some power lines less than a mile from here and we were part of an "island" of 11 houses without power...




3
General Discussion / Re: Workin the roid this morning
« on: April 15, 2009, 04:59:40 PM »
Not just our house, but Mom's house too! :)
Mom lives next door so we stoked her up too.  Mom had the pellet stove, TV, refrigerator, and lights on, and the wife and I had 2 computers, air blower for the fireplace, lights, fridge, and kegerator (gotta keep the Death & Taxes cold).

Sadly, there's only 4 neighbors in view that can see us in all of our lit up splendor, but one of them did call last night to ask if our power was off too. :)

Actually I kind of hope that the grid comes back on before noon today. I have some work to do that requires lots of compressed air, and the 6/1 just ain't up to starting my 5HP compressor...   :'(

4
General Discussion / Workin the roid this morning
« on: April 15, 2009, 04:18:17 PM »
Our grid power went down yesterday about 5pm...

I was under the house looking for some parts and all of a sudden all the CFL's under the house went out and the one lone incandescent bulb went to "half mast" and got all dim and flickery.
The wife came outside and asked if I'd "done something" because some of the lights were off, some were dim, and the computer was making funny noises.  AKKK! Brown out!!  :o 
I went and flipped the main breaker off to keep our stuff from getting cooked.

We had a major brownout condition that lasted from 5PM until after we went to bed at 10PM. The voltage (nominally 120V) was down to 55 volts and incandescent bulbs had a lot of flicker to them. I've never seen a 1/2 voltage brownout condition that lasted for hours like that. I wonder how many well pumps and computers got cooked out there...

The roid performed flawlessly from 5:30PM until 10PM when I shut it off.  I started it again this morning at 6:45 and it's chugging away out there while I type.

Our utility (PG&E) says that the power is down "because of damaged equipment" but they "don't have access to their equipment at this time" and to please prepare for an extended outage. Prepare? Shit, I've been prepared for this for months now! I waited all winter for this. ;D

I think I'll go cook some food in the microwave just because I can.  8)

5
Everything else / Re: New engine controller
« on: March 28, 2009, 11:43:39 PM »
Hey Bob, I've got nuthin against the Basic Stamps...  I've used *LOTS* of them in various projects. Heck, the controller for my reflow oven (that I use to solder PIC's) still uses a BS2.  ;D
But I used enough of them that it no longer made sense for me NOT to migrate to the PIC's.  The various flavors of PICs have on board ADC's, voltage comparators, hardware PWM outputs and about a zillion other features that make them *very* handy to use with a minimum of external IC's, which helps reduce board complexity and additional cost. 
Performance? A BS2 performs (if memory serves correctly) about 3000 instructions per second.  Most PIC's can perform a million or more instructions per second. They are WAY faster!

And the $4 vs $50 cost factor is rather hard for me to ignore. ..

I'm not a great programmer, but I can hammer stuff out in Basic pretty well so I finally bought myself a Basic compiler for the PIC's and now I have the best of both worlds.... the easy to use language that Basic Stamps enjoy, AND all the excellent peripheral features, much higher performance, and dirt cheap cost of the PIC's. And I can work on learning assembly language as my mood and time permits...or not... my choice.  In the mean time, Basic works fine for most of my needs with a little ASM thrown in as needed.


So... anybody wanna *buy* some Basic Stamps?  I've got a bunch of "extras" in my Stamp bin that I'll probably put on fleabay soon.
Make me an offer.   Lets take a look in the bin and see what's still in there....

NEW:
1ea. BS1 (new, 14 pin sip)
2ea. BS2p  (new, 24 pin dip)
1ea. BS2e (new 24 pin dip)
1ea. BS2sx (new 24 pin dip)
4ea. BS2p40 (new, 48-QFP) (Parallax P/N SX48W/P40

USED:
1ea. BS2p (good used, 24 pin dip)
1ea, BS2 (good used, "OEM style")

Hmmm. I'm surprised there aren't any of the "standard" BS2's left. I used to have a bunch of those. Maybe I've got another bin somewhere.

Anyway, how many can I sign you up for Bob?  :)

6
Everything else / Re: Frequency meter
« on: March 24, 2009, 03:02:00 PM »
Hey Scott,

I haven't forgotten about this project, I've just been serious busy.
Spring is here, acres of grass to mow, the wife wants a garden, our tenant is complaining about bats in the walls...   ::)

Your meter is still on the "to do" list, it just got nudged down a few slots.

7
Engines / Re: THERMOSTAT BLEED HOLE SIZE ?
« on: March 21, 2009, 02:59:56 AM »
Thermostat "gulping" s a common occurrence in lots of automotive systems.
FWIW, lots of Subaru cooling systems (and maybe other manufacturers) have the thermostat on the *inlet* side of the engine instead of on the outlet...

8
Generators / Re: 3 Phase Rectifier
« on: March 20, 2009, 08:26:05 PM »
The shipping calculator looks goofy or scary but how would you get it to Seattle for Gordonsville?

I'll bet it weighs 300 lbs.
That's one of those old "moving iron" transformers that has a hand crank that moves the core up and down inside the windings (or moves one winding up and down the core) to adjust voltage.
Those things are pretty heavy.

 And I doubt that the transformers in those are particularly efficient...

9
Generators / Re: 3 Phase Rectifier
« on: March 20, 2009, 08:15:37 PM »
It's probably only going to put out 30 - 40 Volts DC at best. Can your inverter live with that?

10
Listeroid Engines / Re: Fluid level sensor
« on: March 16, 2009, 02:09:07 PM »
It appears to be made out of polypropylene which has excellent resistance to diesel and other fuel oil. I think most plastic gas cans are polypropylene.

Watch the switch contact rating on that thing. Maximum switching voltage = 100V and max current = 1/2A.
If you use it to switch a valve or solenoid you'll probably want a relay or transistor to do the actual switching.

11
Everything else / Re: Frequency meter
« on: March 15, 2009, 03:03:35 AM »
Does my Atari pong game count in this discussion? ::) ::)

     SR.

Yeah, it counts. But If you've got an original Atari Pong, I suggest you DON'T take it apart for Lister projects. You've got a collectors item and the wife ain't gonna understand when you dismember it for "that silly generator of yours".
Seriously...

12
Everything else / Re: Frequency meter
« on: March 14, 2009, 09:33:42 PM »
Wow.

Yeah, I'm in the states. And on the Far Coast at that.   :(

I could put a piece like that to good use if it was in my shop!  Sigh...

If it was here now, you'd bet I'd come up with a way to power it.  ;D

13
Everything else / Re: Frequency meter
« on: March 14, 2009, 09:29:26 PM »

I want to put all of this onto a boad which then interfaces with some ancient computer equipment I have (a Sharp MZ-80K, Z-80 based computer from the late 1970s - chosen because in computing terms, it's a perfect match for the Lister: Old, reliable, cast iron... ;D). However, as old computers tend to be less reliable than old engines, I'm thinking, I'd like it to output data to an RS232 terminal as well, so I can use a terminal or terminal emulator as a backup.

With a PIC for a controller it should be no big trick to spit out RS232 to that old beastie. Sounds like fun. In a twisted sort of way.....


Quote
The thing is, I can do the logical design, no problem. I can even chose the chips & schematic them together so that, logically, they will work. It's the placement of capacitors, external transistors, diodes & resistors which stumps me.... so I'm trying to learn (I have a copy of the Art of Electronics, and its matching student manual)

That's one of my favorite parts is board layout.  :)

14
Everything else / Re: Frequency meter
« on: March 14, 2009, 09:13:03 PM »
I do have a very fancy PCB drilling/routing machine lurking in my shed - from when Dad ran a PCB factory. Sadly, he didn't rescue the plating line when it was decomissioned, so I have only the Micromat machine left over... and that will take some recomissioning, I think.


Ooohhh... I wish I had THAT!  If it's for sale, send me a PM.  :)

15
Everything else / Re: Frequency meter
« on: March 14, 2009, 06:59:02 PM »
Good It sounds like you've got the right spirit for this. I'll work on it from this end as I get time.

In the mean time, you might want to think about soldering irons. If you don't have a decent small tipped Temperature Controlled iron, then that will be your biggest expense.
I suggest you look online at some irons and think about your budget. If this is likely the only electronics project you'll do in the next decade, then obviously you may not want a $150 soldering iron. But if you will use a good iron at least a few times a year then you don't want a $30 iron either.

Good ones aren't cheap, but like any quality tool a good one will last a lifetime and reward you with much better soldering results than a cheap one. You'll have to pick your own trade offs between cost and quality.
 Don't forget to check for used ones on ebay or craigslist. Lotsa companies going belly up and dumping tools and equipment.

I've got several decent temperature controlled irons, but my old Weller WTCP that I bought in 1982 is still my primary workhorse.

Things to look for in a good iron:

1) Decent wattage. 30 watts absolute minimum. 50 or 60 watts is better, especially if you'll also use the iron for soldering heavier wires occasionally also. There's almost no such thing as too much wattage IF the iron is temperature controlled. My *super fine* tipped iron I use for itty bitty surface mount touch-up work  is 70 watts.

2) Temperature control. Don't even think about an iron with no temperature control. They will cause you misery.  They tend to overheat and cook the tip when they sit for a while, and in order to keep the tip from getting red hot they have low wattage elements.
What you want is high wattage so that the tip will keep it's temperature even when in intact with a decent sized chunk of copper wire or large PC pad. But you need temperature control so that it doesn't overheat when sitting idle in the stand.
Many modern irons have electronic temperature control that allows you to dial in your temperature. Older temperature controlled irons (like my old WTCP) used the Curie point of a magnet inside the tip to control temperature and you have to buy tips with different temperature ratings if you need to change.  I like a good hot iron and use 800F tips almost exclusively. For electronics work, a good hot iron is essential. It allows you to do the job quickly before too much heat is transferred to the part. Lower temp irons take a longer time to heat the joint and get good solder flow and it's easier to overheat the part.  Hot and fast is your friend. The iron should have a nice small chisel point tip.

3) A decent stand. You've got to have a safe easy place to put the iron when it ain't in your hand. The stand should be sturdy and stable, easy to insert the iron into and hard to knock it out if you whack the cord with your elbow or something. Homemade is fine as long as it works good.

4) A sponge. Don't overlook this very important item. To keep the tip clean and healthy you need to wipe it occasionally (every couple of solder joints at least) on a wet sponge to clean off any oxides and crusty flux and keep the tip clean and shiny. A good iron stand will also include a little tray to put your wet sponge in. Or improvise something. Don't use a synthetic sponge that will melt under the hot iron...

Anyway, think about if what you've got is adequate and what you can afford and if you have questions... I'm always full of opinions.  ;D

Here's a photo of the crusty old Weller I use most of the time. I paid something like $85 for it in 1982 dollars, but it's been a hard core workhorse for 27 years now...



Steve

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