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Messages - ajaffa1

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Everything else / Re: Antique generator control unit
« on: August 24, 2019, 12:41:06 PM »
Just a thought but could this have been part of on old electric tram? Stop/go and a speed controller. Anyone know what voltage the old tram systems ran on?


Everything else / Re: Antique generator control unit
« on: August 24, 2019, 12:15:38 PM »
Hi Glort, best $30 I ever spent. A quick search online shows each gauge being worth at least what I paid for the whole unit. I still have no idea what I will use it for but it would look good in my generator shed when I build it. One problem is that the voltmeter does not go up to 240 volts, I suspect that I could overcome this with a little creative wiring and printing a new calibration for the dial. I have no idea if any of it works but will try some experiments with it and let you know.. If it`s just junk then it will become your part of your next steampunk photobooth.


Everything else / Re: Welder
« on: August 24, 2019, 12:02:27 PM »
Hi Mikenash,  No I have not tried this, however, many years ago I used to use a very old trailer mounted Lincoln welder it had a single cylinder diesel and belched smoke under load but it did weld well. It could also be used as a 240 volt generator. I think the important thing to consider is that my old Lincoln welder was close coupled to the old generating/welding equipment. I wonder if a belt driven unit off a CS might have too much belt slip and voltage variation make welding an exciting/difficult activity.


Everything else / Antique generator control unit
« on: August 24, 2019, 10:34:29 AM »
Any one know what this is? (see photos) It appears to be some sort of a generator control unit, It has start and stop buttons and a large variable rheostat to adjust field winding voltage and thus output voltage. Found it in a pile of scrap in an old guys shed, gave him $30 for it. Any info much appreciated.


Listeroid Engines / Re: Latest Brands
« on: August 24, 2019, 10:07:43 AM »
Hi Strawhat, saw this for sale recently in Australia: https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/violet-town/miscellaneous-goods/diesel-engine/1226268369

I might be persuaded to buy it and ship it to you In parts.


Listeroid Engines / Re: Roid Bearing Quality?
« on: August 24, 2019, 10:01:45 AM »
Hi Strawhat, grinding bearing races to fit an unusual or no longer available bearing size is very good advice provided you have access to a grinder and you keep the coolant flowing, wouldn`t want to alter the hardening/tempering with excess heat. Sadly I do not own a grinding machine. Many years ago I did have a lathe with a grinding attachment that would have been perfect for this situation. I tried not to use it too often as I was concerned about the amount of abrasive dust it deposited on the lathe sliding surfaces.

Yes, a lot of Lister engines have babbit filled bearings. I have only had to pour a new babbit bearing once on a very old saw milling machine, The trick is to coat the shaft with carbon from an oxy/acetylene torch with the oxygen turned off, once the shaft is well coated with soot, turn on the oxygen and warm up the bearing/bush housing, now pour your babbit. The soot will prevent it from sticking to the shaft.

Hi Glort, I have used head warn lamps a lot in the past and they are an excellent addition to any tool box, I used to keep a rechargeable LED set in the glove box of my UTE, when I got a flat tire at night it was invaluable. I have also used the cheap plastic safety glasses with the bifocal magnifying lens at the bottom. If I remember rightly, they come in five different strengths depending on how bad your eyes are, I guess I would need a number 5 now!  :laugh:


Listeroid Engines / Re: Roid Bearing Quality?
« on: August 23, 2019, 12:03:04 PM »
Hi Glort, I`m guessing that the excessive cost of these bearings is that they are a 1940/50 design so are no longer manufactured, if they are still made it will be small batch production with excessive production costs.

Isn`t it a shame that old stuff is valuable but old people are considered a liability.

Your Dad has the right idea, $50 investment to return $12 a thousand times, that is a nice little earner! I am glad that he is still using it and enjoying it.

Yes I still have the skills to do this sort of work, trouble is I no longer have the eyesight to read the instruments, guess we will have to hope it works out OK.


Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: oil seal Lister CS8-1
« on: August 23, 2019, 10:55:01 AM »
Good luck John, spares are available from various sources depending on what country you live in, happy to point you in the right direction.


Listeroid Engines / Re: Roid Bearing Quality?
« on: August 23, 2019, 10:41:17 AM »
Thanks guys, I have been researching the replacement bearing issue. Having spoken to a number of bearing suppliers they all confirm the cost of a Timken 412/422 bearing at around $350 plus postage. This is much more than I paid for the engine and more than I am willing to spend on it.

Today I purchased a pair of NTN 32210 taper bearings for around $40 each. These are a metric bearing with a 50 mm internal diameter and a 90 mm outside diameter. I will have to bore out the bearing housings by 1.5 mm and turn up some bushes to take the existing crankshaft from 1 9/16 inches to 50 mm. I will also have to place some shims behind the bearings to ensure that the crankshaft end float is within tolerance. I will try to post some pictures of the lathe work and assembly as I go.

I might have to start a new thread showing how this work is done, don`t want AdeV chasing me down for going off topic!  :laugh:


Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: oil seal Lister CS8-1
« on: August 23, 2019, 12:53:07 AM »
Hi John, I`m assuming that this is a genuine Lister unit, in which case there is only one seal in the bottom of the governor assembly cover. It is pressed in from the outside. It is possible to replace this seal by undoing the oil pump, removing the plunger and then levering out the old seal. A new seal can then be drifted into place. It would be worth examining the shaft on the plunger for wear or corrosion, a new seal will achieve nothing if the shaft is worn or pitted.

The fuel pump tappet and the brass camshaft bush do not have oil seals as the engine maintains a negative crankcase pressure via the diaphragm in the crankcase breather assembly. If you are having oil leaks check the condition of the steel diaphragm, if it is damaged the crankcase may develop a positive air pressure and blow oil out of every orifice.


Listeroid Engines / Re: Roid Bearing Quality?
« on: August 21, 2019, 12:04:46 PM »
Hi Glort, yes they want that sort of money. These bearings are imperial sizes and no longer manufactured, SKF bearings still manufacture a 414 taper bearing cup but not the 1 and 9/16 inch bore taper bearing race. I will be going to visit a friend of mine in Grafton next week, he thinks that the Moffat Virtue engine of the same period had the same bearings and he has a yard full of defunct engines. I`m hoping I can find a suitable old bearing race if not, I am back to machining the housings to take more modern metric cups and taper bearings.

After lunch yesterday, the postman arrived with a Lucas RS1 magneto for this Cooper engine. I bought it on fleabay for $35 including postage. It was advertised as incomplete and I thought it was worth a punt rather than coughing up ten times that for a reconditioned unit. It was incomplete but only missing a few screws, insulating washers and a cover plate for the points. A day later it now looks good and kicks out a serious spark, my fingers are still stinging from the first output that occurred when I was tightening up the screws on the Bakelite distributor cover. It still has the original magneto coil/points and condenser made in the 1950`s, very impressed that it made my hair stand on end after all these years. I will probably replace the old condenser and points and try to remagnetize the rotor but if it ain`t broke no point in trying to fix it!

I`ll try to post some before and after pics tomorrow.


Listeroid Engines / Re: Roid Bearing Quality?
« on: August 20, 2019, 10:27:00 AM »
Hi Guys, sorry to have been away for a while. I have a Cooper petrol engine in my shed, it has taper roller bearings (Timkin 412/414) the bearing on the output/drive belt end has failed. It is most unusual for taper bearings to fail, I suspect that the belt tension was excessive causing a lateral load that resulted in the bearing failure. The replacement cost for an original bearing and cup are exorbitant (circa $400 each). I will probably have to machine out the bearing housings to take the next nearest metric taper bearings. I will also have to turn up some bushes to expand the size of the crankshaft main journals.

I would not be concerned about a low RPM engine with TRBs, I would however be very careful about getting the end float correct by adding or removing shims/gaskets to manufacturers specifications. You should also check that the big end is centered bellow the cylinder.


Engines / Re: Lister ST1 becomes hard to hand crank.
« on: July 31, 2019, 12:29:39 PM »
Hi Wess123, sorry to read that you are still having problems. I have a copy of the original service/maintenance manual. Sadly I cant post it to the forum because it is too large a file, send me a PM and I will try to email it to you.


Petteroids / Re: bryce pump on petter pj1 will not prime
« on: July 26, 2019, 11:56:31 AM »
Hi Rod, I have dismantlement and rebuilt a few injector pumps over the years, I don`t remember ever seeing a fiber washer inside of any of them. Copper washers and ground mating surfaces yes, fiber washers no. If this is what passes as a reconditioned pump I dread to think what it must have been like before it was "reconditioned".

Give them hell,


Changfa Engines / Re: New Watercooled Diesel Toys
« on: July 23, 2019, 01:25:03 PM »
What about ground source heat pumps, I have never personally installed one of these but I have dug the trenches and laid the plastic underground pipes for them.

They work rather like a reverse cycle air conditioner in that they can provide both heating and cooling. In winter they draw heat from the ground, in summer they pump heat into the ground, using it a bit like a heat battery.

The heating/cooling is generally dissipated through underfloor pipes set into an insulated concrete floor, the idea being to maintain a constant room temperature of between 20 and 30 Celsius via an adjustable thermostat in each room. They are said to be extremely efficient and can be run off solar electric during the day, at night you can turn them off and rely on the heat/cool of the concrete mass of your floor.


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