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Messages - mikenash

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1
Changfa Engines / Re: Do it Changfa Style
« on: May 20, 2019, 07:25:00 PM »
Anybody got any info or pictures of the subframe and transmissions of these mechanical marvels?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1uTPXymRR4

2
General Discussion / Re: MIG Welder, what to look for?
« on: May 17, 2019, 11:45:24 PM »
i also don't mind cheap chinese stuff . I have had an EXCELLENT run from what I have bought and some of it has been thrashed to the point if it fell over long ago i would have bought another saying I got my moneys worth from the first lot.
Thing is, If i'm buying Chinese gear I want to be paying Chinese NOT premium prices. That's the tradeoff for the risk you take.

Service and backup is important as well but the reason I stopped buying Dewalt tools was because you pay through the nose for stuff made in China that does not last any better and the warranty/ service/ standby from the company is crap.

Be interesting to see the warranties on the things as well.
I think the relevant questions that need to be asked go well beyond amps and duty cycle and all the rest of the numbers and probably applies to most other things as well.



"Ozito"  is the word you are looking for

We have Ozito tools at work.  Not flash but big & solid & they work & work

We paid $130 eight or nine years ago for an Ozito hammer drill from Bunnings.  It has drilled many hundreds - more likely thousands - of deep 20 or 24mm holes in concrete for tru-bolts or chemset.  I drilled forty or fifty or sixty 20mm holes with it one afternoon.  I was knackered but it was still fresh

When it finally died late last year we just went to Bunings and paid $140 for another one

I have one of their routers and an electric planer - both cheap and good.  The $70 planer did all the work involved in true-ing up all the subfloor structure when I put a floor in a 70M2 shed last year - if I had thrown it away after that it would still have been a good deal

I'll be asking where they are made that is for sure.
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3
Everything else / Re: Compressor oil grade
« on: May 16, 2019, 10:01:16 AM »
Nothing "typical" about it

An honestly-expressed opinion cos the electric chainsaw IS a great tool for anyone without the ability to use a petrol one.  I traded my 63cc Jonsered in on a 39cc Husqvarna last year & when I get older & slower I figure I'll end up with an electric chainsaw on the shelf alongside my battery angle grinder, battery rattle gun, battery drill . . .

No agenda at all attached to that comment

4
Everything else / Re: Compressor oil grade
« on: May 16, 2019, 08:53:28 AM »
The electric chainsaw is a wonderful tool for women, older folks or people with big gardens

Once you own one you won't be without it I would guess.  Just like me and the 18V battery angle grinder

5
Everything else / Re: Compressor oil grade
« on: May 14, 2019, 09:08:44 AM »
Probably because there a many kinds of compressors?

The expensive modern screw ones that have a mix of compressed air and oil mist and which catch the oil "on the way out" with a separator are fussy buggers, expensive to maintain, unforgiving if not maintained properly, and extra expensive when they blow up.

With one of them, using the right oil is a must IMHO

It's probably folks thinking about them that are finicky about the oil

6
Generators / Re: Anyone know what this is?
« on: May 14, 2019, 09:02:05 AM »

7
General Discussion / Re: MIG Welder, what to look for?
« on: May 13, 2019, 08:24:00 AM »
It's almost impossible to get oxygen and acetylene in Ireland. You need to be a professional user like a car body shop, welding company etc. I have a small 10 year old arc welder I got in Lidl it's fine for the sort of stuff I weld and it should have died years ago. cost 59 new.

Most (almost all?  All?) of the stuff we now do with the MIG we did with the arc-welder 20 years ago.  The MIG has just made it fast, easy & cheap.  When it stops being cheap we can go back to the old single-phase plug-in machine

Years and years ago when I did my ticket, my instructor at the Polytech said "Use low-hydrogen rods.  They'll do a better job & they'll make you a better welder"  To do a job good enough for industrial repairs on crucial-ish machinery, you have to be able to understand the weld pool and think about what you're doing.  In later life, when introduced to the MIG, those skills are good to have.  But if you "learn" to weld with the MIG you may never, arguably, pick up those skills

I suspect there's life in the old arc-welder yet

8
Everything else / AEC Matador remains
« on: May 12, 2019, 05:44:53 AM »
https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/trucks/other/auction-2050856879.htm?rsqid=c59eff9b89ad45a5ba8d208c78744036-001

This bloke has been trying to sell it for a while

There's a wee video goes with his advert

https://youtu.be/MxU-_D2_1ss

I can't help thinking one of those blokes who likes to restore WW2 heavy recovery trucks & the like might be interested in it

9
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Southern Cross ETB diesel engine
« on: May 12, 2019, 01:50:29 AM »
Interesting

Somewhere there will be a stash of that old shit - and the know-how.  In a small town I bet

Wouldn't surprise me if the seating "valves" want something softer than UMWHE type stuff?  But I don't really know why I think that.  My memory is of rubber valves around 40mm diameter with a full-width washer behind them - kinda like a penny washer - so ghey may have been designed to be both soft and rigid?

You'll figure it out

Cheers

10
General Discussion / Re: MIG Welder, what to look for?
« on: May 12, 2019, 12:28:38 AM »
Yeah, I have LPG/oxy in the cutting plant at work - heaps cheaper

BOC is expensive for the gas hire if you don't use it much?  In response to that the local NZ Safety engineering place here does an own-your-own bottle system.  I guess you'll find one anywhere for shield gas

11
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Southern Cross ETB diesel engine
« on: May 12, 2019, 12:25:31 AM »
Y'know, most rural service towns have a pump shop with some old fart who knows all about these old units - there's still a place here that works on ones similar to your cos people continue to use them because they are positive displacement units.  So if you can find a pump shop and just ask them about springs you might get lucky with a close match

That said, if you look at what's happening when the piston goes back and forth - there's pressure on one side and suction on the other, probably?  If that's the case, the spring isn't withstanding pressure, it's just holding the rubber "valve" in place maybe?

See the springs in the pic?  They're light - maybe anything like that you can find will do?

If it was in good shape maybe it would do six or eight bar?  Maybe 100PSI or a bit better?  Just a guess - no way of knowing really.  Gauges are cheap anyway - put a cheap one on and look around for a good one once you understand the pressure range?

If you have a look on google for some pumps with a similar physical structure, find a pic with a name/ID plate visible, then google the "pump curve"  - that will give you an idea

I will watch with interest.  Cheers

12
General Discussion / Re: MIG Welder, what to look for?
« on: May 11, 2019, 07:15:40 PM »
Google "BOC"

I think they're Australian anyway.  They'll have a branch in every decent-sized city

Buy a medium quality wire-feed MIG with auto gas-feed/wire feed combined adjustment

Put up with a bit of annoyance while you learn to use it

Consumables like liners, tips, sheilds are on the shelf at BOC & are cheap

I have a $2400 one at work does everything from light stuff to 12mm wall pipe

For out-in-the-paddock or funny-metal stuff I have one of their 180A portable stick welders - will run 4mm OK.  Cost about $500

Got about ten years out of the last stick welder and have had the MIG for maybe six so far without problems.  Biggest issue with it is stopping the "boys" at work adjusting things and buggering it up

Just be aware the MIG won't put up with welding galvanised stuff as the stick will - you'll have to get it really clean

Buy an aerosol can of anti-spatter while you are there

My $0.02

13
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Southern Cross ETB diesel engine
« on: May 11, 2019, 07:01:28 PM »
Bob, any of those old pumps I have seen have a stainless or brass thin washer that follows the rubber or leather sealing washer and which supports a coil spring. Most I have seen have a tapered thin coil spring made from stainless wire

Traditionally you bought a "service kit" for them when they stopped working every few years

See pic?

Cheers

14
Y'know if you made a fat outer pipe so there was quite a bit of capacity, and vented it to atmosphere at the same height - or maybe about a foot higher? -  than the vent on your hot water cylinder, you could probably use it as some sort of crude pre-heater for the HWC.  Smart folks here could come up with all sorts of management systems for something like that . . .

15
If that last five feet of 4" pipe is vertical or vertical-ish, why don't you replace it with a double-skinned stainless section - 4" pipe inside 6" pipe with an inch fitting top and bottom.  Voila!  Thermosiphon

I'm a big fan of solid, heavy-wall, stainless wetbacks, and have had them on my last four woodstoves.  IMHO much, much more effective at heating water than any copper loop device

Cheers

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