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Messages - glort

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Changfa Engines / New Watercooled Diesel Toys
« on: June 17, 2019, 01:18:48 PM »
After a couple of weeks wheeling and dealing, managed to pick myself up a couple of New ( to me) engines today.

They are genuine Kubotas rather than knockoffs which should be a good thing. One is complete and looks in excellent condition, the other looks like it has been through 3 world wars and is missing the fuel tank but -said- to run.  For $300 for the pair ( That's $1.96 US) I was happy with the price just for the good one.

They are 12 Hp and have electric and Crank start. I have wanted a watercooled engine of this type for a long time so finally got my wish.

I intend to hook this up ti my induction motor Generator. Been playing with that for a while but wasn't really satisfied with the fit of the one I intended to use.
If the older engine does run it will be good for testing cooling setups etc.

Will try to post some pics of the actual units tomorrow.

Also managed to pick up a 5 Kw Solar inverter, 20 250W Solar a panels and 27 180W Panels.
A very Fruitful but Kind of expensive day all up. Did a job on the weekend that went better than expected so made the most of it.

Got to have a good day now and then right? Might give me something to think about to get though July.

Listeroid Engines / Re: Propane CS clone power loss, welder fixed it.
« on: June 16, 2019, 02:17:54 PM »

Hi Bob,

This is the unit I have in mind:

Seems a good price as all I can find on fleabay for the same unit is about $200 more.  I'm not sure I'll ever use the TIG feature, gas still seems overly expensive even with the buy your own Bottles. Then again, do you REALLY need gas?  I used to gas weld a lot and use wire coathangers for rod. Don't say they were the strongest welds out there but they never broke on anything I stitched up so was good enough for me.

As I see it TIG is like electric Gas so I wonder if standard stick rods with teh flux wouldn't give a decent Weld.  Again, not talking High pressure pipe or extreme load bearing here, more thinking lighter stuff that gets tricky with MIG but TIG seems OK with.

I wonder how a TIG gun would go with DC?  Few solar panels in series / parallel would throw a powerful arc.

Will CO2 do TIG or  does one need argon? Only thing I can thing of for making CO2 is Baking soda and Vinegar.

Listeroid Engines / Re: Propane CS clone power loss, welder fixed it.
« on: June 16, 2019, 09:42:06 AM »

Got your welder set up just in time Bruce.
Nothing so satisfying as just having the tool on hand to effect a repair to help someone out.

I found a MIG/ TIG/ Stick welder I am going to buy when I get back. On special, $200 off and a known brand so looking good.  Comes with a decent auto darkening helmet so will be good to have one of those too. I just made a space on the pegboard in the shed for all my welding helmets, not sure how I aquired so many but I'll see if I can find somone that needs a spare when I get the other.
Got the seal of approval from the Mrs to boot for the new toy. Was even asked why not go get it today?  Will be nice to weld with a machine that works smoothly unlike the one I have and to see what modern stick welders can do.
Guy in the tool shop was talking about all these features I never heard of.

In reality it Boils down to things to help the totally inept with no idea to be able to stick a couple of bits of metal together.
Much to my surprise, some of the much bigger serious machines had the same " Driver aids" and even more!  A touch screen on a welder for the automatic settings?? Really??

I mentioned a Current  TV ad here were a 4WD  ute parks itself completely hands free. I said to the guy Just as you shouldn't be driving something that size if you can't park it, you shouldn't be using a welder if you need it to do these basic things for you.

Everything else / Re: HW3 Marine Engine - Bleeding problems
« on: June 15, 2019, 04:54:34 AM »

Where did the leaking fuel end up?

Everything else / Re: HW3 Marine Engine - Bleeding problems
« on: June 14, 2019, 04:46:21 AM »

The air leaks happen when the fuel is being pulled from a tank like in a vehicle.  In the veg circles where the problems could be increased through the thicker oil, the solution was often to put a pump at the tank to push the fuel and exclude the air. The merc pumps like on your car would pull a golf ball through a garden hose so anything not perfectly sealed was prone to air leaks.   Often the irony was air would get in but people couldn't find  any leaks where the oil got out. Obviously different density's of the materials but showed how hard some of these leaks could be to track down. The one with the CAV fuel filters had people scratching their heads for a long time till a friend of mine found and solved the issue for everyone.  Never did like those filters anyway!

Pumps didn't work for me on my truck. Haven't found one yet with the grunt to push the oil through fast enough when the thing is spooled up and pulling hard. Even the expensive Holley pumps which would flow 1000HP of petrol wouldn't last long on oil. Solution in the end was Bypass most of the OEM Lines after the hard line reached the engine bay, use a Subaru filter and straight into the IP. Removed about 3M of fuel line and a lot of connections and bends.

The thing here with what the Op describes I find the key to be the fuel tank is raised. Normally that would help push the air out or stop it coming in but he says he turns the fuel off.  I forgot to mention to look at the fuel tap as well because if that is leaking air it would allow the level to drop and fill the space with air.  Thing is though, fuel has to be draining somewhere for the level to drop so to me that indicates there is a path out somewhere lower down.

This makes the problem 2 fold to me, a leak down near the engine and possibly one up the top although the air could come in the same lower leak and then try and travel up.  Air bubbles in my experience are weird like that. Rather than travel along and out they can act like a plug or at least a significant restriction as the liquid tries to get around them.
Leaving the fuel on may help but then there is going to be a puddle of it somewhere, not what you want floating around in the bilge.

I replace all the soft line on my vehicle annually.  I know it lasts longer so I do it aircraft style, before it fails.  I have eliminated all I can so there are only a couple of easy to get at its about  30 Cm and 15 Cm so it's not expensive either seeing I use the cheap braided hose. Been using and replacing that some years now and although I always carry spare, never needed it. I do like the clear Braided line because you can see what is in it.... Like air bubbles or crap from the tank.

There can be other things like cracked injector lines which may be a possibility on this engine but still tend to be lesser in my experience than air leaks in the supply lines. Plus with injector lines the spray is often easy to see and the engine NEVER runs right.

One thing with the Mercs though and my Nissan, the pumps are really good at self Bleeding.  You can watch the air go in the pump and often they don't even cough or when they do, they clear up as soon as they get clear fuel flow. The bosch Inlines were awesome Pumps and the Rotary styles weren't far behind.  The bosch pumps are capable of pumping a viscosity of oil that would be impossible to flow down a line because it would be well and truly gelled. One of the reasons I gave away the whole heating the oil waste of time. Only thing that is good for is melting any fats and you only need the oil 40c if that for them to melt out.

Everything else / Re: ESD 5500E engine speed controller unit
« on: June 14, 2019, 03:10:10 AM »

Have you looked into the speed controller or the cruise control any more OSM?

Everything else / Re: HW3 Marine Engine - Bleeding problems
« on: June 14, 2019, 03:09:04 AM »

My suggestion would be you have a leak somewhere, either in the fuel lines or in the pump. Sounds like a trapped air bubble which will allow some but niot enough fuel to go through.
Air has to be getting in somewhere and often leaks are air leaks not fuel leaks. Seen a lot of vehicles with this problem.

If you have soft lines and a filter from the tank to the IP replace them to start including new quality clamps.
there were a batch of the CAV filters some years back that had a problem with the top bolt leaking due to poorly cut seats the washer sat on.  a quick spin with a countersink fixed that. I never used it so did as I did with all fittings and used a sealant on them. My go to is PVC pipe cement.  If the area is clean it seals perfectly but isn't hard to remove from metal if you have to .

Once you have isolated fuel feed leaks, see how you go.  Not sure of the IP on those is fed from the sump but if it is and the oil level is rising, it's the pump.  A seal or diaphragm has gone inside. If it's not oil fed, the fuel has to be going somewhere so clean around the area and check for drips.

You can clean around any unions with brake cleaner and then give a good coat of the PVC cement or whatever else is out there in sealants.  If you have metal fuel lines, Check for cracks or pinholes.

General Discussion / Re: Welding on clean DC
« on: June 13, 2019, 10:39:26 AM »

Maybe it looks big in the pic but that seems a pretty decent Torrid for just running 1.5A.  Is there a reason you are getting a commercial charger instead of just adding some more LM's or just bump the 317 output with a couple more transistors Bruce? Would that create too much EMI for you?

I thought Switching power supplies would be banned from being on your property!  :0)

General Discussion / Re: Welding on clean DC
« on: June 10, 2019, 09:29:58 AM »

That is without doubt, the best looking welding trolley I have ever seen! I think it would look great just with a coat of clear lacquer.

I also think wood was a good choice as is leaving it open at the sides.  No chance of shorts and I don't trust  batteries any more especially in applications like this. I have had good batteries explode on me for no reason. They were well connected, in free air and no where near any ignition source. It was something internal that could not be forseen.
 If that were to happen with this setup, with the open sides the pressure is vented and things, especially metal fragments, are not going to go flying.
That said, some louvred panels to stop acid splash may be good.  Last battery that went off showered me in acid and right on my face. Was the Middle of winter but luckily I was right next to the swimming pool and threw myself straight in. Fortunately I just got away with a lacerated wrist from a piece of flying plastic.

As with many things you discuss Bruce, you have had me thinking about this.  I looked up spool guns and far as I can see, they can be used for steel welding although for some reason are not often used for that.  I thought a gun would be easy as you just have to hook the power up and don't have to worry about the long wire feed.  I see that regular setups could be had for a bit more money. Tempted to try the mig setup with solar panels although it's likley the volts would be too high at around 30 but with thicker 1.2mm wire and welding heavy plate may be OK.  Not sure what amps would be needed though and the Volt/ amp relationship.  100 amps on solar would be bit of a pain to parallel all the panels even with those x4 adapter leads.

Interested to see where you take this Bruce and well done with the setup.  Looks more like furniture than a welder.  :0)

General Discussion / Re: Welding on clean DC
« on: June 04, 2019, 01:13:17 PM »

You should see about having your cataracts done Bruce.
My dad had one done about 6 weeks ago and reckoned he could see better that night. He's booked in to have the other eye done in a few weeks.  From the time they took him into prep till the time they rang to come get him was under 2.5 hours. I think the doc did about 20 people that morning. It's only about a 15 Min actual op they said.

I know Dad is a lot happier for having it done much as he was scared about it. It's taken a lot of his frustration away and made him more relaxed apart from the fact he has been squinting to see out the good eye as the one he hasn't had done is now so much more limiting.
The only thing he said was the eye felt a bit scratchy for a couple of days but I couldn't slow him down and get him to take it easy afterwards.
Didn't deter him a bit.

I'll ask if they can give him a prescription for something to sedate him for a few days after this one so he''ll  have no choice but to rest.
Sure didn't put him off his Tucker either!

Engines / Re: Head Bolt Torque - Changfa 175
« on: June 03, 2019, 09:46:28 AM »

The Power Torque engines were Rubbish but the 160cc before it with the separate crank case and barrel were great.
Why they went from a Full crank to a half with stamped con rod can only be described as a bad mistake no matter what the cost savings.  Those things weren't a pinch on the old motors.

I still have one of the mowers up the back with the original 160cc they stopped making in '84. Now and then I drag it out and fire it up and just listen to the thing.  Brings back childhood memories of waking up on a weekend to the sound of people mowing their lawns and THAT was what a mower sounded like and always did till much later.

I always say, people who don't like 2-strokes and think they are hard to start or don't run well or whatever just don't know how to tune them and what makes them tick.  When set up and tuned correctly, they are a Marvellous sound to behold in any type and application.

Engines / Re: Head Bolt Torque - Changfa 175
« on: June 03, 2019, 12:30:01 AM »

The Victas were a terribly under rated engine.
I used to hot those thing up and do stupid things with them as far as RPM and output and never once did I break one. 
Far tougher than nails!

Briggs OTOH..... They were fragile even at stock HP and the price of parts was just a bad joke. I know people love them but back when I was playing with them, they would make a listeriod look like precision engineering. They had like 8 head Bolts on a side valve design which was low compression and the minute you bumped it you ran into problems with spitting gaskets or stripping the bolts out the aluminium blocks.

Not just the Punjabs that have put together poorly built engines. I hear they are better now, Couldn't have got much worse and I think they were going out the back Door with Honda overtaking their market.  Irony here is Briggs now own the Victa brand and fit Honda motors to their Products.
I cant remember too many cases of one manufacturer using a competitor product  they made a direct alternative to but goes to show the esteem each one has in the marketplace.

I'll bet now the Biggest threat all the small engine manufacturers face is not from one another but the very good and cheap engines the Chinese are pumping out by the million.

Everything else / Re: ESD 5500E engine speed controller unit
« on: June 01, 2019, 01:07:50 PM »

I wonder how much air/ vac they would use?
Might be possible to vac down an old BBQ bottle and use that as the Vac source.

Engines / Re: Head Bolt Torque - Changfa 175
« on: June 01, 2019, 08:43:03 AM »

I took the head off my 165 several times and just torqued it down tight which being me, is pretty tight apparently. Never had any problem.

I bet there are thousands a year serviced in the field in the Asian country's and I'll also bet the amount that are done up with a torque wrench could be counted on one hand!  :-[

 From the numerous Vids I have seen, most of them are real lucky to have an air filter!   :o

Come to think of it, I don't ever remember even thinking of the torque settings for the head of any small engine I have rebuilt.  More than one had gaskets including head gaskets cut out from a cornflakes box or other single ply cardboard.
I remember doing one as an experiment where I only cut a small  hole in the bore area.  I was right, fuel got pushed through there, cardboard burnt away and made its own fit.

General Discussion / Re: Listeroids
« on: June 01, 2019, 08:33:27 AM »

I learned something.
I just took it as all non British made engines were listeroids.

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