Is it a 2 part paint that requires an activator/hardener? I have used urethane paint a couple of times and it comes like that but with the hardener in a second can. When added together it ends up being a gallon. Sounds like they may have forgotten to send you the activator.

Very cool scan. Thank you for sharing. A lot of good info there.

At least one of them isn't in pieces in a box. The other....looks, well foreshadowing. Good luck!

They have moved towards better efficiency. Recip compressors haven't been used in decades. Scroll and swashplate compressors are the norm now. Electrically driven compressors and heat pumps have also started making their way in. They started in electric cars out of necessity but have started showing up in combustion engine cars because of the increased efficiency.

The inefficiency is due to not being able to reasonably or affordably design a system that will work in any and every climate from the arctic to the mojave while giving several hundred thousand miles of service with little or no problems.

In your situation where you will be building for primarilly steady state and stationary use your system if properly engineered would fall much more in line with unitary equipment and be considerably more efficient. The one caveat being the compressor. If using an automotive compressor it will be less efficient than an electrically driven compressor that is properly sized for the load. Automotive compressors are designed for robustness first and efficiency second.

If you like to tinker it is definitely a worthwhile project and I would be interested to hear how it goes. I think when all is said and done electrically driving the system is the way to go though.

Any thoughts on refrigerant type and do you have a source for refrigerant?

With the price you are paying for electricity and the inexpensive fuel you have access to I would think either way you could save some money using the listeroid. What part of the world are you in?

What is a TRB?

Tapered roller bearing.

There are two different BSP threads. BSPP which is a parallel thread(like a bolt) and BSPT which is a tapered thread(pipe fitting). The flanges on the engine should be BSPT. The issue is 1.5" BSPT is 11 threads per inch where 1.5" NPT is 11.5 threads per inch. So, after a couple of threads of engagement it takes up any slack in the thread form and binds. There is also a difference in thread pitch and form between BSPT and NPT. One cannot simply rethread  BSPT thread to NPT. You either need to have an adapter fitting(one end BSPT and the other NPT) or run the whole pipe system in BSPT.

You can also try old school pipe sealing cord/thread. Below is a link.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-442-35082

Good luck and link you Lister thread so I can check it out.

Here is a link to my build thread. Sadly I haven't had much time the last couple of years to get back to it. Hoping to remedy that soon. Welcome aboard and looking forward to your other thread.

https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=7612.msg86188#msg86188