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Topics - Horsepoor

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I have a new in the crate, never used nor opened ST 10 Gen Head purchased from Central Georgia Generator in 2010. Tom Osborne is a great guy to deal with, his gen heads are preimum, and I am so pleased with everyting purchased from him as are my friends.

Anyway, I picked up a trailer load of Generator Heads (4,000+ lbs) on my way through Geogia to save the shipping costs for myself and friends. After delievering everything, there is an extra ST 10 gen head for a build out that isnt going to happen. I posted the St 10 on South Florida Craigs list to non forum members for $549 but will sell it to anyone on the forum for what I paid for it ($480). It is available for pickup in West Palm Beach.

Bruce

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Lister Based Generators / Florida - Getting Ready for Hurricane Season
« on: April 25, 2010, 05:14:09 AM »
With the help of my friends here West Palm Beach and on the forum, I've just about finished my portable Metro 6/1 listeroid based generator. The 6/1 is running at 740 rpm with a 7.5 KW ST generator head. The gen head is over kill but at a maximum load of 4,500 watts starting well pumps and AC units, it runs cool. The system runs under clear smoke at 4,000 watts at what I estimate is the useful maximum sustained power. It runs effortlessly at 3,300 watts which seems to be in the range of my night time load with an upstairs 2 1/2 ton AC system on, night time lighting, 2 refrigerators and one chest freezer. I have a 16/2 GTC twin for heavier loads, more on this later on. So with some help from Rocketboy here are some video shots.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToXLQTXQ3qI[/url]

Got the Murphy Switchgage over temperature auto shutdown solenoid working very well. The larger solenoid will pull the rack closed from any position and hold with a 1 amp current draw.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZcW467k6Go&feature=channel

To move this 6 hp - 2000 lb generator around, I added a 12 volt winch purchased from Harbor Freight and tool ($49) on sale. Works well and allows me to load the unit onto a 16 foot utility trailer so I can move it to the homes of relatives, if needed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3H8pH_lwgfw&feature=channel

I've got my main generator shed up and running pretty well. The same Murphy over temperature emergency shut down system has been installed and it works very well. This is a GTC (Power-anand) 16/2 running at 800 rpm with a Georgia Generator ST 15 Kw gen head. Under maximum load I get 11,200 watts and can sustain 10,000 watts. I need this much power for all the AC units, well pumps (Horses), lights, laundry, hot water, etc. During hurricanes activation, I have to work 12 hour shifts which are really 14+ hour shifts. It's nice to come home to a cool house, clean sheets, cold beverages, and a hot shower. This Power-anand has been a God send: 2005 - no landline power for 21 days during the first hurricane, then no land line power for 14 days on the second. Because I live in an equestrian area, we are last to receive power restoration. Here is a quick video of my 16/2 with it's new electric start and an emergency over temperature shut down.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HYakTZnypA&feature=channel

If anyone is interested in how I setup my generator shed, there are some photos from August 2009 as I started the process. Things are coming together nicely and work continues. Here is an earlier link.

http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=4333.45

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Listeroid Engines / Proposed poor man’s heat exchanger design
« on: July 28, 2009, 07:04:16 AM »
What do forum members think of the feasibility for building the following device:

Heat exchanger criteria: Must be cheap, easy to connect and uninstall, use commonly available components, and be reasonably reliable.

I’ve been thinking about the transmission cooler in the radiator connected to my 20/2 and soon I will also have a 6/1. Both utilize a GEO Metro radiator (16 X 20 inch) with cooling fans attached. This transmission cooler is pretty much a “Shell and Tube” single pass heat exchanger sitting on my generator set. Now since I have several Grundfos Brute three speed heating recirculation pumps ($75). I use one to circulate coolant through the engine and radiator. I have spares. The with a nominal setting with a three foot head is about 4 gallon per minute through the radiator.

http://cgi.ebay.com/GRUNDFOS-UPS15-58FC-BRUTE-3-SPEED-PUMP-59896341-2-PACK_W0QQitemZ120325997773QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1c03fd04cd&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262
   
If I were to use one of my spare Grundfos pumps to circulate water through the transmission cooler in a separate closed circuit system, this could be connected easily to a hot water heater. I am thinking about using two Homeless Depot ¾ inch contractor grade 75 foot water hoses, one to the bottom fitting of the hot water heater, the second to hot water fitting next to the washing machine close to the hot water heater. I could then use the pump to circulate water through the transmission cooler in the radiator and “slowly” heat water in the hot water heater connected to the house.

Now thinking about the mass flow through the transmission cooler. I think a gallon per minute through a ¼ tube near the radiator is reasonable for a mass flow rate some where around 500 lbs /hr H2O. I use a 185 F thermostat with bottom radiator temperatures hovering around 170 F. So I basically have a single pass shell and tube heat exchanger with a large heat sink on the radiator side, low flow rate through the tube, and lots of heat losses along the lines. But, since the listeroid is running 24/7 for weeks during prolonged power loss during hurricane operations, I really don’t care if it takes all day or night to heat up 80 gallons of water in my hot water heaters.

So what do you think of the concept?

Looks like for about $15 in fittings, since I have everything else, I’ll find out how tough these contractor grade water hoses are and if the concept actually works. I want something simple, easy, and reasonably reliable. I can always heat water by pulling power from the generator, but if push came to shove, it might be nice to capture some of the waste heat.

Bruce

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Generators / Low voltge from ST 15 Gen Head
« on: August 17, 2008, 08:44:14 AM »
Fact pattern:
Found the perfect spring for my 16 HP listeroid so it will hold 60 hertz.
Got the fuel rack set just right so it can handle anything from 100 watts to sustained 10,000 watts loads with only a 1 to 2 herz drop.
But my voltage drops to 102 volts with a heavy load which should not be a problem of a ST 15 head running at only 10 kW.
I've looked in the blue dog house, but know very little about what I am seeing, request detailed advice on how to bring voltage up - please.

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Listeroid Engines / The mystery of low compression
« on: April 30, 2006, 05:13:58 AM »
Problem:
Apparently, low compression in the number one head. Engine runs fine with the compression screw in but as soon as it is screwed out, the number one cylinder misses badly and only fires occasionally.

Engine facts:
New GTC 20/2 down rated to run at 850 rpm.
The number 2 cylinder runs fine, both at high compression and at low compression (screw out)
Piston rings properly installed at 180 degree off sets with the next layer at 90 degrees.
Valves set to machine shop before engine ran and tappet clearance set at .008
Injector pumps set to fire at 26 degrees before TDC
Bump clearance set at .052 and verified as accurate.
No noticeable leakage heard nor detected when engine is slowly turned over / cranked.
Number one compression change over valve examined, seals look good and spring loaded cylinder appears to be functioning properly.

Suspect areas:
I wonder if the injector might some how be malfunctioning. The fuel used is jet fuel. I plan on swapping out the injector and seeing if the problem goes away.
I wonder if the cylinder head cavity could have been cast larger than normal? I plan on measuring the volume by carefully pouring in a measured among of oil. Does anyone know the standard volume?
I wonder if there is some feature on the design or maintenance of the compression change over valve that might cause low compression.
I have a standard compression tester for gasoline engine with the screw in spark plug type head, which will not work here. Tomorrow, I am going to look around town to see if I can buy a diesel compression tester cheap.

Do any of the members of this distinguished forum have any ideas or suggestion for me to run down?

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