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Topics - Dave

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Listeroid Engines / Camshaft and Crankshaft Endplay

« on: October 08, 2020, 03:54:53 PM »

Finally reassembling my 24/2 Powerline Listeroid after several years of scraping, gouging, needling and power washing sand and gook out of every nook and cranny.
Can't seem to locate torque and end play tolerances for the engine, particularly for the cam and crankshaft. Does anybody have a source for these specifications?
Much Appreciated.

Dave

Listeroid Engines / Cylinder Painting

« on: June 29, 2011, 02:42:58 AM »

I have a Powerline 24/2. I had (have) problems with excess cylinder wall protrusion. I was reading .008. I think it's supposed to be .003 to .005. I pressed the liner out the cylinder block. The liner was rusted bad so I wire brushed them. I am hoping when I put it back together I won't have to make another trip to the machine shop. The liner was measuring .008 in some spots, more in others.

This next bit may be a really stupid question.

Can I paint the outside of the liner with Hi-Temp paint? I know enough not to coat the mating surfaces at the top or the grooves where the O Rings go.

Dave

Listeroid Engines / Radiator Mounting Height

« on: May 29, 2011, 04:28:29 PM »

I took the radiator off a bracket I had welded to the engine due to vibration. I am getting ready to prepare a new location and I had a question about the the mounting height in relationship to the engine. I have seen quite a few variations in this subject.

Should we put the bottom of the radiator above the highest level of the coolant in the engine? I want to have the flexability to run this thermosyphon or pumped coolant.

Dave

Listeroid Engines / Coolant Passage Alignment

« on: May 23, 2011, 02:23:16 AM »

Has anyone checked the alignment of the coolant passages between the head and the cylinder block? I had some coolant leaks under the head so I took the head off to check and or replace the gasket.

The first thing I noticed was that the gasket does not line up well with the head or the cylinder block.

I had heard that Gaskets To Go makes custom gaskets that could be made with large enough holes to accommodate the the minor differences in the gasket so the passages would be clear. I traced the cylinder block and head then laid the tracings on top of each
other. I highlighted the passage misalignment in black.

I was shocked to find that 4 of the holes are about 50% or more blocked because the coolant passages do not line up between the head and cylinder block. Making a custom gasket won't help.

I looked at the possibility of using a die grinder on the cylinder block and the head but I am concerned I may structurally impair the either piece or cause additional leaks.

Has anyone else seen this?

Why don't the head and the cylinder block coolant passages have the same shape and oriented so the line up better? Do I have a part mismatch between the head and the cylinder block?

Lister Based Generators / Gauges for Generator

« on: April 23, 2011, 10:40:08 PM »

Getting ready for hurricane season in Florida!

I had the Listeroid genset 24/2 with a 15kw ST head running for about 30 minutes. Powered the barn after I isolated the house.

The rubber horse stall pads made the vibration go away!

I have a full wave bridge rectifier for the field windings on the 15KW no AVR. Had to shut down when the radiator almost boiled over.... Forgot to plug in the 12vdc for the fans.

I put a few loads on it. Circular saw drew the most current, dropping the 120 to 117 and the frequency from 60.9 to 60.1 I did not detect flicker in the lights. Engine runs at 1000 rpm. I bought a 850/1000 rpm pulley from Mike Montieth. I have not run it yet at 850. DC voltage on field winding ran between 44 and 45 vdc. Forgot to check current.

I have it shut down now to repair some coolant leaks and to mount the radiator off the frame. (Listen to George....Don't put the radiator on the frame!)

I want to order some gauges to mount on a panel and to rig up an over heat, over voltage and over frequency (RPM) auto shut down mechanism.

I would like to get murphy gauges that have the adjustable contact closure trip points.

Does anybody know where I can get these gauges?

Is Rocketboy still around?

His web page shows a solenoid that hooks up to the fuel rack. Looks very nifty. Can anybody PM me his phone number? I'd like to get some details on this.

I'm mostly harmless and only a little strange.

It's about a 2 hour drive from me.

To Summarize:

Where to buy Murphy Gauges?
Rocketboy contact info?
DC Voltage range and current on field winding? (For Gauges)

Dave

Lister Based Generators / Rubber Pads for Gnerator Mount

« on: April 12, 2011, 12:17:34 AM »

I had cut some rubber pads out of a welcome mat for the generator mount that are about 1/4" thick. It's still shakes the barn pretty bad. I have read most people use 1" thick pads.

Does anybody know where I can get pads 1" thick that won't compress with the weight of a 24/2 with gen head?

I am guessing it's about 2200lbs.

Dave

Listeroid Engines / Radiator Hoses

« on: April 11, 2011, 03:08:12 AM »

I set up my listeroid on a frame with the radiator. It shakes so bad I think I have to move it. I had a heck of a time finding radiator hoses to fit this one.

Does anybody know where I can buy radiator hose by the foot?

Dave

Lister Based Generators / George B Governer Kit

« on: April 10, 2011, 04:11:18 PM »

I bought the governer kit from George a couple of years ago. I have since lost the installation documentation. I understand the basics but it would be nice to only drill one hole in the block.

I have not found it on the two CD's from George or his current webpage.

Does anybody have the documentation on this kit?

Dave

Lister Based Generators / Adjusting RPM in a Listeroid

« on: April 09, 2011, 11:59:22 PM »

Okay, I' m stumped!

I have a 24/2 listeroid hooked up to a 15kw head. I have a two step pulley on the head designed for 850 and 1000 rpm.
I hooked up the head for the first time today. The engine was delivered with 1000 rpm. The manual says to adjust the nurled nut clockwise to increase and counterclockwise to decrease rpm.

For some reason I decided to hook up the 850 RPM pulley and figured I would adjust the nurled nut from the default 1000 RPM to 850 RPM.
The head was putting out 362 VAC and 80 HZ. I tried to adjust the RPM by referencing the frequency to 60 Hz and ideally I would be at 850 RPM.
I adjusted the nurled nut until it almost fell off and the frequency never changed more than 3 rpm (no load yet). I can manually bring it down to 60hz if I pull the nurled nut assembly. I am going back out there to try the 1000 rpm pulley and see what that does.

The right cylinder was running about 30 degrees f hotter than the left cylinder. That's the background, here's the questions.

1) Why doesn't the RPM change when I adjust the nurled nut?
2) Is the nurled nut only for a small change in RPM and do I have to change or adjust something else as well for a larger reduction of 150 rpm?
3) The difference in cylinder head temps suggests to me that one cylinder may be getting more fuel - How do you balance the injectors pumps?
4) What are the flat head screw adjustments behind the flywheel for?

Thanks Again!
Dave

Listeroid Engines / 24/2 Lister Coolant Manifold Leaking

« on: April 09, 2011, 03:51:35 PM »

I bought a 24/2 back in 2005 and a 15KW head for a generator. I have been working on it ever since in my spare time. I started it up last weekend and I noticed some coolant dripping around the base of the manifold where it touches the engine as well as the hose barb king fittings that screw into the manifold. The threads were real loose and I thought the threads maybe BPT instead of NPT. According to the documentation I could find on it, the 1.25" pipe has the same TPI and should tighten up just like the BPT was NPT even though there is a 5 degree difference in thread angle.

The fitting was real loose in the threads and would not tighten and bottomed out. I put a lot of Teflon tape on it but it still leaks. I would think that if the pipe thread die was wore out, the threads would be shallower and irregular and the NPT pipe would not thread on. The threads look clean and sharp in the manifold. My first suggestion was to JB weld the hose barbs onto the manifold. I will probably try that since my other thought was to drill out the threads and try a 1.5" thread. I don't know if I have enough material around the perimeter of the manifold.

I have questions.

1) Is there some other thread standard other than NPT and BPT?
2) Do they make hose barbs for this oddball thread?
3) If I buy new manifolds, will they have the same problem?
4) Does anybody sell coolant manifolds with good NPT threads?

Thank You for any help you can provide. I promise to have some pictures ready for my next post.

Dave

General Discussion / Do you want this? I am gonna throw it out.

« on: September 16, 2009, 04:51:55 AM »

I have fallen for that line again. Some one had 20 gallons of diesel fuel. Red in color. Don't know how old or if there is water in it. Looks okay. I transferred it to other containers through a screen which came out clear. Does anybody know how I can determine if is it is usable? Should I add something to it or filter it in some way?

Engines / Help With Lister Cooling

« on: June 06, 2007, 01:25:08 AM »

I am getting very close to finishing the Generator project I have been working on. I need some help figuring out the details on the cooling.

I have been reading the previous posts about radiators and I have some questions.

How big of a radiator do I need for 24/2 with no water pump?
When I went to the radiator shop, the first thing they asked me was, "What is the make, model and Year?", "Thermosyphon?"

When it was mentioned in the posts to install the radiator at a slant, which way do I tilt it and to what degree would be optimum?
Top tilted away from the engine?

Thanks again to all the guys who have been helping me over the last year to get this far..... Maybe I will be ready for hurricane season this year

Everything else / Alumiweld

« on: January 15, 2007, 08:03:03 AM »

While shopping for 7018 and 7024 welding rods, I ran across these rods that supposedly weld aluminum. Any body ever tried these rods? The instrucions say to use a propane torch.

Lister Based Generators / Thermosiphon Radiators

« on: January 05, 2007, 04:57:33 AM »

Now I am trying to find a decent radiator for the 24/2 Lister. I want to go with a thermosiphon to avoid any parsitic loads on the ST head. Anybody have any suggestions?

Lister Based Generators / Finding and Sizing the Right Serpentine Belt

« on: January 05, 2007, 03:24:35 AM »

I am laying out the Lister and ST head on the base I am building. The distance between the ST head and the Lister are dependent on the available belts. So far I am finding 98" and 99" 8 rib belts for the 15kw head and 24/2 Lister. The way I figure it is half the circumference of the pulley plus half the circumference of the flywheel plus two times the distance between the crankshaft of the Lister and the shaft of the ST head. The pulley is 11.5" in diameter, the flywheel is 22". Circumference=pi*d
So we have 18" for the pulley, 36" for the flywheel, I estimated 20" seperation for the shafts. Total belt length will be 94".

I think I should try and keep the belt length as short as possible. Does anybody have any suggestions on how close I can put the head and the lister together? I know changing the oil needs to be considered.