Quote from: Petersbpus
Hello Jens,
You had mentioned a while back that you were burning Waste motor oil,
I saw you were using the Racor with 2 micron on the engine,
couple of questions,
Are you thinning it with diesel or other product? Kerosene,
Are you processing it before putting in tank, like 10 or 30 micron filter,  or centrifuge
Maybe you could post full details in WMO thread, not much activity there.
I'm about ready to start running my 6\1 and have an assortment of oild deisel, WMO, used Hydralic oil, etc,
Appreciate insite into your use.
Thanks
Bob P.




The oil I was using was first given plenty of time to settle out crap. It was then filtered with commercial bag filters at 100 microns, then 10 and then 1 micron.
I tried thinning with RUG and got carried away which got me into vapour lock. I will not be doing that again. I use injector line heat so thinning is not really required.
Although I did run some straight motor oil, a lot of what I was running was 'mystery oil' which includes things like ATF and kerosene or paint thinner, diesel, hydraulic oil, you name it ...... Basically I have two fuel streams - dinosaur based and plant based. Because of the risks involved, I only keep a little of the dino based stuff around. I keep a 45 gallon drum in the garage and everything that is dino based goes in there. It might sit 6 months before I pull it (pumping off the top, leaving the bottom alone), filter it and burn it. I am just finishing my supply of dino stuff and am switching to veg based stuff for the remainder of the heating season.


You probably have seen my posts re the soot I am getting. I still have not completely satisfied myself about where exactly the soot comes from. One of the theories is that it's from the fuel and possibly the suspended soot in the oil.

Jens

Hello.

I have been reading of the soot,
are you concerned about the carbon building up on the rings ?
Maybe a little propane injection now and again to clear things out?

You are using the veggie type bags, How fast/slow did it pass thru the  bags ??
Have you tried the plastic mesh units for tops of drums or buckets of various microns.??
Bob P

The concept:::
With the Listeroid 6\1 running on waste hydraulic oil
Run 2- portable high EER(14.5) air conditioners,(hot air vented out window with a hose type), refrigeration, freezer and heat exchange domestic hot water, While the rest of the house is still on the grid, portable A\C’s or central A|C would run on grid at night, big ass refrigerator would run off 12v 5000\10000 inverter both during the day and night or grid. Battery chargers off the Listeroid charging the12vdc bank and running the refrig. during the day.
The refrig. is one of those True 48” glass door coolers, draws 9 amps running, don’t know the start amps are but 1500\3000 inverter would not start it, I figure it’s best for the other equipment to let the start hit be absorbed by the inverter.

I bought two transfer switches 30amp each (plenty) with 6- 120v circuits or 1- 240 and 4- 120 each unit.

The Question:::::
The neutral lines,,,,,, in the instructions for the transfer switch it warns about making sure that you have sufficient neutral leg capacity for the current path and that  different “sections” don’t share a neutral there fore putting all the return load from both on it.
My house was built about 1972 has metal conduit and wired with primary wire, not romex.
If I have part of the house on grid and part on genset thru the transfer switch, is that crazy?? I seemed so simple and straight forward before,, Now that it’s coming time to really finalize the design and hook up I’m having a little stress.
transfer switch has double throw switches,,, Grid- Off- Generator,, selector  type that is hooked in series with the hot to each selected circuit.
Reliance model 30216BRK
PDF instructions 
http://www.reliancecontrols.com/Documents/30216BRK%20Instructions.pdf


In the end the neutrals and the grounds are together at the breaker box, so maybe this was a unworkable\stupid idea?? To think I could have both worlds at the same time.
I haven’t yet investigated the way the neutrals run in the house, and should be able to make sure I don’t’ power a circuit with the genset that is tied to another (at the neutral) powered by the grid, but like I said they ultimately ARE tied at the box.
We have polarity concerns in the big boat industry all the time no excuse for reversing polarity, so making sure I’m not running a neutral as a hot is not a problem.

I really didn’t want to run dedicated lines to the loads I plan on running but if that’s the only way this will work, then that’s what I have to deal with.

OH,  Had a thought,, I could tie the 6 switches into three gangs of two and switch both hot and neutral for each of 3 circuits. Maybe it’s not an issue with things tied at the box??
I know there are some very qualified electrical types out there what is the real deal??
Bob P

Going to set up recirculation of domestic water to heat exchanger on the listeriod.
will have 120 or 240v pump
Wilo Star S 16FX 3Spd Pump Outdoor Furnace Boiler pump, $80. or the like
tempering\mixing valve so as not to burn the wife in the shower.
maybe store 140 degree water??
One question comes to mind, When this circulation pump returns the water to the heater what keeps the flow from mixing the entire tank?
obviously cold out to exchanger and just return it to the hot water discharge of the water heater,
I know I will have to check for those anti convection diaframs in the hot water line opening. maybe this should stay in to disrupt the flow and not mix the tank?? or does it matter??
Sure it would,, better heat transfer the colder water sent to the listeroid.
the pump would be powered from the genset only and have adjustable thermal disc to shut off at full temp in water heater.
 that's how I see it in my head, Feedback please
After the heat exchanger there would be a small radiator ( honda motor cycle)with adjustable fan(12v)  to finish the job before returning the coolant to the 6\1.
Bob P.

Continuing re-assembly of Metro 6\1,after de-sanding and extensive mostly predictable improvments.
 just ready to set spacing and compress the rings,
noticed lack of spring steel wave ring under the oil ring of the new piston, I checked the Old piston it only  has about a 3\4 of a full ring under the oil ring.
I am installing a new block,and cylinder,,,, it came with a new piston installed, (no rod)
Should I consider with careful measurment using the 3\4 ring on the new piston 
Do some of the ring configurations not require the expansion spring?? don't recall seeing  a modern piston without one.
The old piston only has an hour on it but am using the new piston with the new cylinder which had a better cross hatch to boot, and no sand scars.
Bob

Metro 6\1

Question??
I found that the far end of the cam (away from the timing gear) does not ride in a bushing,
only in the cast iron, The” Metro parts Book” supplied with this engine is only a reprint of the original Lister book and not really this engine except in general. The book on page 11 plate 3 shows a bushing.�  reference #33 for the cam end bushing .
This cast iron bearing�  surface is unbelievably rough\rusty, fuel pump end has a bushing but I have not yet inspected it for any damage.
Is there a bushing available for that area?�  I hate to go this far and leave the cam with a problem........I do have
the equipment available to bore the case�  out and install a bushing. I can make a silicone bronze bushing if necessary, or oilite?? Picture of bearing surface here in photobucket...

http://s217.photobucket.com/albums/cc153/Petersbpus/4kw%20Metro%20Listeriod/

� 
The cam itself on my Metro., differs from the one’s everyone on the Lister forum has trouble
removing the collar and taper pins, it has a bolt and washer on the end, that seems
satisfactory for the application, and was easy to remove.

I’m pretty sure the normal rotation tightens the right hand thread.
I could just run a brake cylinder hone thru it and call it good, I do plan to hook up an electric micro gear pump for oil circulation and filtering and certainly will return at least part of the oil to the hole above this bearing. Where else should I shoot some of this return oil???
My Metro is splash only lube, no pump.

Bob P.

I have a 6/1 on the way,( due here next Wed.) during inquires with supplier I had asked about oil filter option, hard pipe kit etc.
That is when I found out that the engine had no pump only the dip tube "an oil pump kit was available but, likely very dificult to install and engines with no pump have run long and hard without them."

Searching this site for variations of "no oil pump", lack oil pump", turned up little, SO what's the experience out there??.

While I'm at it, I plan at least minor disassembly to check rod bearing surfaces for sand damage (plasti guage to check tolerance), but also have read alot about poor lifter surfaces being common.
Once I open her up, major surgery is  likely the outcome, so various torque specs, expected tolerances and you "really must check" items would be appreciated . I saw 170 ft lbs. for the head bolts and 55 for rod bolts.

Since I already have my Changfaoid 1115 hurricane backup genset complete, this WVO/W hydralic oil burner unit for daily use and battery chargeing can be built up as time allows.
I do have a Bridgeport and lathe available,. My personal skills on those are limited, although I have turned a few simple parts for other projects. thermostat recess should be no problem.
I figure the lifters can be trued and polished in the lathe easily???
The only really scarry part would be resetting the timing gears, so I'll check carefully for marks and ask also for input in that area from members.
Is it bad forum form to ask shotgun questions?
I'm hopeing the unit will sound alot like my Grandfathers 1930's John Deere 'B"  always lived that sound!!
Bob P.