http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0a6njEceHPA

and...running!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGmfeNMqYVk

http://www.f1-rocketboy.com/lister%20series%202%20page%202.html

Here are preliminary notes from the Power Anand Electric Starter kit.



First, This thing is HEAVY. If you order one, you should find someone local ordering an engine and piggy back your order with them to reduce shipping costs. I did this and cost from Mumbai to Florida worked out to be $272.

The kit included two new Stover type flywheels and are identical to the ones on my 850 RPM 16/2 except one flywheel has a nicely machined ring gear bolted to it using about 8 bolts. A guy with some talent could buy just the ring gear and add it to his existing 20" stover flywheel (or so I think) and saved massively in cost and shipping.

An important note here is that these flywheels don't have counter weights so I had to add weights for use on my non-counter weighted 6/1.



Power Anand also makes a kit for twin cylinder engines which includes the above mentioned flywheels and othert parts.




The kit also includes a new large 12 volt starter, two beefy cast iron brackets, an electrical junction box, and hardware. One of the cast iron brackets completely replaces the cranks case cover plate, and includes a new breather.

An important note here is that the starter mounting system does not use the idler gear bolt for strength as other starter setups do. All attachment is via the studs that hold the crankcase cover on.

The other cast iron bracket bolts to the cover plate, and the starter attaches to this plate with three bolts.

The starter has a good bit of power and grunts through the first compression stroke, and subsequent compression strokes are easily handled. You can also use the compression release and motor the engine at a good clip for pump priming etc. I estimate it spins the engine at over 200-300 RPM.

Ther wiring is simple and you will need to provide some sort of battery recharging to keep your starter battery full.

So far, two 2.5 lb cast lead weigts have done wonders for reducing vibration on my 6/1 with more balancing coming. As these flywheels are good for higher rpm, I increased the engine revs to 730 RPM to spin the gen head at 1800. This is because the flywheels are 20" in diameter, vs the original at 23.5"

I don't know if Anand makes a counter weighted setup for single cylinder engines, you'll need to talk to Atul about that. Also, I don't know what the cost for either setup is.

It is a simple, sturdy system I expect no problems with it.

Just got these in the mail from Atul at Power Anand. He sent them for eval and all are beautiful .I especially like the engine cover plate!
This guy REALLY knows how to take care of his customers!



Check out his new idler gear. All Anands engines have these now. Very nice quality!



New oil pump for Twins. Again, superb quality!



Whats not to like about this new cast iron cover!



New liquid filled damped oil pressure gauge. Attaced to the new oil pump and engine running.
Very large size and easy to read from a distance. About 5" diameter.

Regards...RB

Hi,

I've finished the 30 hour run-in period and have many comments you might be interested in.

Initial startup was difficult as I couldn't get fuel to pump thru the pump. Even with a squeeze bulb helping, i finaly needed to unscrew the delivery valve from the top of the pump to get the thing to pump. Once pumping the rest of the fuelline priming was easy and it fired right up.

I'm using some 40 wt aircraft oil I had spare for this initial cleaning and will change to heavey duty diesel oil soon for additional time. With the oil filter, I expect to make the next oil change at 100 hours followed by 500 hour intervals.

The governer works ok but needs some help. I'm getting a 6 Hz spread from no load to full load. I can narrow that to 3 Hz with a different spring. The response is very slow due to the large flywheels and low RPM. I see overshoots to 67 Hz when dropping a large load.

THe engine needed a linkage mod as did my 16/2 to get more fuel into the thing for better overload response. This helped a bit and now it make big puffs of black smoke when accelerating under heavy load...cool!

Absolutely no oil leaks due to the vacum breather design! Pleanty of blow by however. I'm hoping this will subside as it breaks in. I might plumb these vapors into the intake...

The engine will make no more that 4080 watts with full rack and lots of smoke. It's comfortalbe at 3500 watts with small smoke and loafs effortlessly at 2500 watts. I hope to see a 10% improvment after 250 hours as it breaks in. The thing always has a tiny bit of visible smoke but I'm working on it.

This engine ran quieter with the changeover valve screwed in and clanged a bit with it out. I started messing around with the timing and have improved it by retarding it a bit. In general, retarding it makes less clang but more smoke. I'm close to a sweet spot..still fiddling.

The radaitor of choice this go-round is a 1979 Honda goldwing GL-1100 unit. Got it on eBay for $6 plus $12 shipping. The fan works well and after much messing around, it now cools properly.The lower cylinder jacket opening was largely blocked by casting flash and restricting the water flow. This mainifested itself as an excessive temperature spread beteween the inlet and outlet of the radiator. I was seeing 105 deg F spread at 3000 watts (200 deg into radiator and 95 deg return). Obviously this was un-sat and needed some work. After opening up the port with a die grinder things got a lot better. Also, rasing the radiator higher increased the flow rate. Currently the bottom of the radiator is 1" higher than the upper cylinder head water fitting. This is giving me a personally desirable 50 deg F spread from top to bottom. I see 180 deg F coming out of the head and 130 deg F returning from the radiator. This is with a 3000 watt load, 70 deg air temp and the fan running at 3 amps (75% power). It seems like it should do the job in Florida summer heat so the radiator choice seems adequate, tho barely.

The water neck flange fittings were tapped using a worn out tap so I could'nt get the screwed in fittings to stop leaking, especially under the pressue of 200 deg F. I gave up and JB welded them into the cast water neck flanges. Now no leaks, and all the water stays inside the engine with the radiator cap installed and the coolant system fully pressurized.

The NAPA belt needed tightening once during this 30 hour period as expected. It runs with little vibration or shake and is overall much smoother than the 16/2 setup. I think this is due to the fact I used large chunks of steel to mount the gen head.

The gen head has an AVR. The light flicker seems to be less than before even the the engine is turning sower than the 16/2 setup. I attribute this to the AVR. As the gen head loadsup  and the RPM falls a bit, the voltage of the gen head drops enuf that the AVR is no longer in a regultaing mode and the generator is humping as hard as it can to keep up. In this mode, light flicker is quite noticable. I will experiment with reconnecting thee had using the 50 hz coils.This will produce more voltage across the RPM range and keep the regulator regulating. Will report findings later.


more...

I posted more pics on Coppermine....

Here is how it's done...

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Step two. goto coppermine and click on your picture so  as to make it appear on your screen.
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Whilst typing your description and comments in the main text box, press the little button above the text box that looks like a small painting (insert image).
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Last step. presst CTRL + V to pasted the previously copied address (URL)

If you did it right, the address will be inserted between the IMG tags. Press preview to see if you succeeded!

Kepp trying and good luck.

RocketBoy