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Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Re: Original Lister CS Pulley
« on: January 08, 2012, 11:07:19 PM »
Picture posted on the Gallery under Moe.
Cheers
Moe
Cheers
Moe
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Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Original Lister CS Pulley
« on: January 04, 2012, 01:23:28 AM »
Folks,
I have an original Lister V-Belt pulley that came with my Lister 10/2. I am looking to find a good home for it but have no idea how much its worth. I am also be willing to trade it for other Lister CS parts. It is a large item and fairly heavy so shipping costs will be considerable. I live in BC, Canada
Please let me know if anyone is interested in it.
Cheers
Moe
I have an original Lister V-Belt pulley that came with my Lister 10/2. I am looking to find a good home for it but have no idea how much its worth. I am also be willing to trade it for other Lister CS parts. It is a large item and fairly heavy so shipping costs will be considerable. I live in BC, Canada
Please let me know if anyone is interested in it.
Cheers
Moe
3
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: JK6 BUMP CLEARENCE
« on: January 04, 2012, 01:18:31 AM »
I did mine without the gasket No problem so far after running for over 2 years.
Good luck.
Moe
Good luck.
Moe
4
Listeroid Engines / Re: 6/1 head torque
« on: February 05, 2011, 01:26:10 AM »
The Specs I provided (65ft lbs & 100 ft-lbs ) are from the information I have gathered on the original CS engines not Listeroids. I have no knowledge of the specs for the Indian made engines.
All of my data are from reputable sources and original Lister documentation/manuals.
Moe
All of my data are from reputable sources and original Lister documentation/manuals.
Moe
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Listeroid Engines / Re: 6/1 head torque
« on: February 03, 2011, 07:52:59 AM »
For the the 6/1 I have the following Spec from my notes.
65 ft-lbs for for the 9/16" nuts and 100 ft-lbs for the 3/4" nuts.
The 9/16" nuts are only relevant if you are using a 7-stud head.
Hope it helps
Moe
65 ft-lbs for for the 9/16" nuts and 100 ft-lbs for the 3/4" nuts.
The 9/16" nuts are only relevant if you are using a 7-stud head.
Hope it helps
Moe
6
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: How is your cold starting
« on: February 03, 2011, 07:46:10 AM »
When it gets below -15c, I found that a plumber's propane torch was no use for heating the intake or the block on my 10/2. It is a relatively small flame and if the propane is cold, it wont flow at all. I have tried starting a fire in -30C outside with a propane torch and I had to heat the torch just to get the flame going. In my place I am fully off grid, so hearing using electricity is a no go. I have tried a propane torch on the intake, and unless you leave it there for a while there is simply no use. Too little flame (heat) and too much air or Iron at too low of a temperature. One needs a lot more heat to get things going.
Regarding moisture...I had one occasion (before I completed my shed) when it was -28C and the engine was fully covered in Frost. I did heat the intake with a propane torch and cranked the engine. This caused the moisture to freeze the piston to the cylinder walls. Over a 5 min period, the engine got harder and harder to crank until it was not possible to turn it (Piston totally frozen to cylinder) . I had to heat the engine by placing a white gas stove under the engine for 45 min. It defrosted it and was good to go.
Moe
Regarding moisture...I had one occasion (before I completed my shed) when it was -28C and the engine was fully covered in Frost. I did heat the intake with a propane torch and cranked the engine. This caused the moisture to freeze the piston to the cylinder walls. Over a 5 min period, the engine got harder and harder to crank until it was not possible to turn it (Piston totally frozen to cylinder) . I had to heat the engine by placing a white gas stove under the engine for 45 min. It defrosted it and was good to go.
Moe
7
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: How is your cold starting
« on: December 05, 2010, 09:41:01 PM »
Here is some data on cold starting I collected last year. It gets pretty cold where I am, but I am very impressed with the CS.
I have British 10/2 attached to a 6KW PMG. The gen set is located in a generator hut that is well covered, dry, but not well insulated. It is situated in British Columbia at about 3500ft.
There are no glow plugs installed on the system and the oil is Shell Rotella. There is no electric starting system. The air intake does not have a filter and an elbow is placed at the end of the intake pipe and situated so that it points towards the floor.
Observations:
Down to -10C, the engine turns relatively easily and starts without any form of heating . It does take a few revolutions for it to get up to speed.
At -15C, the engine is much harder to crank and It will not start without heating the intake air. I heated the intake air using a small hurricane lantern that I hang from the intake such that the top of the lantern is just below the elbow at the end of the intake. It takes about 10 mins of heating to get the engine to go.
From -15C to -25C, it is impossible to crank the engine to gain the necessary momentum to go over even one compression cycle. The oil is like honey. Both the crankcase and the intake need to be heated. For this purpose I used a camping stove that runs on white gas. I had to heat the crankcase for about 25 mins. At this point it was possible to gain sufficient momentum but it would not start. Then I placed the stove under the intake elbow and left it there for another 10 mins. The engine fires but I need to keep the heater in place for a few revolutions in order to get the system to go.
At -20C and below, if the crankcase is not heated and heat is only applied to the intake, the block is so cold that moist air entering the intake will freeze inside the cylinder and prevent the engine from turning at all. So applying heat to the intake alone can be problematic unless one can crank the engine.
I have British 10/2 attached to a 6KW PMG. The gen set is located in a generator hut that is well covered, dry, but not well insulated. It is situated in British Columbia at about 3500ft.
There are no glow plugs installed on the system and the oil is Shell Rotella. There is no electric starting system. The air intake does not have a filter and an elbow is placed at the end of the intake pipe and situated so that it points towards the floor.
Observations:
Down to -10C, the engine turns relatively easily and starts without any form of heating . It does take a few revolutions for it to get up to speed.
At -15C, the engine is much harder to crank and It will not start without heating the intake air. I heated the intake air using a small hurricane lantern that I hang from the intake such that the top of the lantern is just below the elbow at the end of the intake. It takes about 10 mins of heating to get the engine to go.
From -15C to -25C, it is impossible to crank the engine to gain the necessary momentum to go over even one compression cycle. The oil is like honey. Both the crankcase and the intake need to be heated. For this purpose I used a camping stove that runs on white gas. I had to heat the crankcase for about 25 mins. At this point it was possible to gain sufficient momentum but it would not start. Then I placed the stove under the intake elbow and left it there for another 10 mins. The engine fires but I need to keep the heater in place for a few revolutions in order to get the system to go.
At -20C and below, if the crankcase is not heated and heat is only applied to the intake, the block is so cold that moist air entering the intake will freeze inside the cylinder and prevent the engine from turning at all. So applying heat to the intake alone can be problematic unless one can crank the engine.
8
Listeroid Engines / Re: Governer Troubles - Help
« on: July 07, 2010, 11:24:18 PM »
Initially, I had the same issue with my 12/2. There were a number of things I had to make sure operated correctly.
(1) Injector timing and valve settings. Some folks have issues with this and they suspect the governor instead. Having a well running engine is the first order of business. Looks like you are already there
(2) Stiicition/stickiness in the governor linkage. This introduces very strong linearity in governor response. Note this is different than slack in the system, and it has to be worked out of the entire linkage segment by segment
(3) Wrong spring constant. This determines the force needed to overcome the spring tension at a given spring displacement (stretch).
I believe if you look at the above items, you will be able to tune your governor, so there is ~ 2-4Hz drift from no load to 60-70% load.
MOe
(1) Injector timing and valve settings. Some folks have issues with this and they suspect the governor instead. Having a well running engine is the first order of business. Looks like you are already there
(2) Stiicition/stickiness in the governor linkage. This introduces very strong linearity in governor response. Note this is different than slack in the system, and it has to be worked out of the entire linkage segment by segment
(3) Wrong spring constant. This determines the force needed to overcome the spring tension at a given spring displacement (stretch).
I believe if you look at the above items, you will be able to tune your governor, so there is ~ 2-4Hz drift from no load to 60-70% load.
MOe
9
Engines / Re: Injection Pump
« on: February 23, 2010, 05:19:32 PM »
I rebuilt both pumps on my CS and replaced the Elements, Delivery Valves, and associated springs.
The most important factor when assembling the pump is to get the timing such that when the rack is fully opened max fuel is delivered. As the fuel rack goes back and forth, it turns the plunger inside the barrel. The alignment of the helical groove in the plunger with the hole in the barrel body determines how much fuel is pumped at various rack positions. When the rack is closed, the groove in the plunger (when viewed from the top of the element/pump), should line up with the hole in the barrel. This makes it such that when the rack is closed, no fuel is pumped by the plunger. If you have a twin, getting this consistent on both pumps is also important.
If you have done this, please ignore this post. Otherwise, I would suggest looking at it carefully.
Moe
The most important factor when assembling the pump is to get the timing such that when the rack is fully opened max fuel is delivered. As the fuel rack goes back and forth, it turns the plunger inside the barrel. The alignment of the helical groove in the plunger with the hole in the barrel body determines how much fuel is pumped at various rack positions. When the rack is closed, the groove in the plunger (when viewed from the top of the element/pump), should line up with the hole in the barrel. This makes it such that when the rack is closed, no fuel is pumped by the plunger. If you have a twin, getting this consistent on both pumps is also important.
If you have done this, please ignore this post. Otherwise, I would suggest looking at it carefully.
Moe
10
Everything else / Re: Lost my My Lister Mentor and Diesel Resource; George Helmuth
« on: July 09, 2009, 04:54:27 AM »
Sorry to hear that. I did not know him well but did speak with him once over the phone. I enjoyed my discussion with him and he clearly knew a lot about the Lister. He has a great deal of knowledge about the British Lister and also knew of the history.
11
Everything else / Ordering from McMaster Karr in Canada
« on: July 08, 2009, 05:56:39 AM »
Today I went to check on the status of an order I placed with McMaster Karr and to my surprise I was told that the order was canceled because they no longer ship to individuals in Canada and the only way to get the parts is to go through their distributor. The distributor places about 50-80% mark-up on each item and shipping is extra. Has anyone else seen this or was it just me 
Not having access to McMaster parts sure makes things more complicated.
Cheers
Moe
Not having access to McMaster parts sure makes things more complicated.
Cheers
Moe
12
Original Lister Cs Engines / Valve guide differences....
« on: June 07, 2009, 06:01:52 PM »
I am wondering if there is a reason, other than being able to tell them apart, why the exhaust and the intake valve guides have different profiles. On the original Lister the exhaust is threaded and the intake is press fit. The Indian made ones have both be press fit.
I am asking this because on on a twin, the two heads are identical (same part numbers), and the location of the guides is switched from one head to the other, so the intake ports are adjacent to one another. Therefore the holes where the guides fit are identical and the valve seats are also identical. I thought the purpose of the valve guide is to keep the valve centered. if that's the case, then their profile could be the same unless the forces on the exhaust side make it such that it needs a longer guide...
Don't know if this makes any sense, and perhaps it is obvious...I figured if there is a good answer people on this forum would know it.
Cheers
Moe
I am asking this because on on a twin, the two heads are identical (same part numbers), and the location of the guides is switched from one head to the other, so the intake ports are adjacent to one another. Therefore the holes where the guides fit are identical and the valve seats are also identical. I thought the purpose of the valve guide is to keep the valve centered. if that's the case, then their profile could be the same unless the forces on the exhaust side make it such that it needs a longer guide...
Don't know if this makes any sense, and perhaps it is obvious...I figured if there is a good answer people on this forum would know it.
Cheers
Moe
13
General Discussion / Re: Thanks to the Admin
« on: April 24, 2009, 06:00:06 AM »
Thanks to the Administrator for bringing the site back. It looked like the domain name was no longer pointing to anything so I thought it was gone for good.
This forum is not only a place to share ideas and learn, but the collection of current and historical posts constitutes information, know how and technical data that can not be found elsewhere.
It is great to see it back and lets hope there is a way we can all protect this data for others to use over the years.
Moe
This forum is not only a place to share ideas and learn, but the collection of current and historical posts constitutes information, know how and technical data that can not be found elsewhere.
It is great to see it back and lets hope there is a way we can all protect this data for others to use over the years.
Moe
14
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: CS 10/2 Crankpin roundness spec
« on: April 07, 2009, 06:03:40 AM »
Thank you Peter for the information. This is the information I required.
Regards,
Moe
Regards,
Moe
15
Original Lister Cs Engines / CS 10/2 Crankpin roundness spec
« on: April 05, 2009, 09:25:26 PM »
Hi
Can any one point me to the specs for the Crankpin diameter, roundness spec, and big-end bearing roundness spec for the original Lister CS. I have seen 2.4975" mentioned as the nominal crankpin spec bout dont have any data on acceptable roundness tolerance for either the crankping or big-end
Thank you.
Moe
Can any one point me to the specs for the Crankpin diameter, roundness spec, and big-end bearing roundness spec for the original Lister CS. I have seen 2.4975" mentioned as the nominal crankpin spec bout dont have any data on acceptable roundness tolerance for either the crankping or big-end
Thank you.
Moe
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