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Messages - CD in BC

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1
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Some more English heavy iron
« on: September 19, 2012, 05:05:19 PM »
A big horizontal single Blackstone turned up out here on Vancouver Island recently.  Owner was getting it going last I saw.  Had about a six inch bore IIRC and flywheels about four foot diameter.

2
Why all the excitement over poor copies in poor condition half way round the world when you can buy originals here in North America and restore them?

No, not exactly the same kind, but CS series and models like the FR that don't regular hand oiling etc.

I guess the grass is always greener on the other side of the ocean?

3
I have a Lister FR-1 on a heavy steel generator base that I picked up a few months back.  I've decided I'm not going to need the engine.  This would be suitable for about a 4Kw genset.

I also have another FR-1 on a similar base.  This one *may* be missing a few parts, but there is also a box of spares including what may be a new piston and rod.  

Engines are located in Vancouver BC at present.  If you're not afraid of doing a bit of restoration work, these are the best and last of the Cold Start series engines.

It's nice to have a complete unit to refer to when taking apart and putting together and the buyer could always restore both and sell one to recoup costs +  That's what I would do if I had the time!

$800 for the pair.  Sorry I have no photos yet.

4
Listeroid Engines / Re: 55 lb hammer and a cracked hub....
« on: March 05, 2011, 12:07:36 AM »
Well, the reason for my little rant was that I know of original, rebuildable Listers for sale in the Pacific Northwest: FR1s & FR2s etc., but when I've posted about them here in the past there was very little interest.

Anyway... 8)



5
Listeroid Engines / Re: 55 lb hammer and a cracked hub....
« on: February 25, 2011, 08:15:24 AM »
Reading these innumerable threads about people pulling their listeroids apart to clean out the sand, replace this, adjust that, I can never understand the apparently widespread reluctance to purchase an original Lister and rebuild it.   Everyone says they don't have time for a "project" and then they rush out and buy one!

It's almost as though the "bait" of "ready to run" is irresistable, even when the most cursory research must show that these engines are made by the uknowing working for the uncaring, and who knows what sins the filler and paint conceal, because QC might as well stand for "Queen Camilla" in Rajastan.

Buy a real Lister and rebuild it so that you have a KNOWN and PROVEN QUANTITY that can be relied on for thousands of hours to come - if you do the work properly.

Scuse my little rant there! ;)


6
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Genuine Lister CD/CE Manual
« on: February 14, 2011, 11:22:40 PM »
Another bearing source off another thread here: http://www.vasantbrass.com/product.htm

Crappy website, but you have to put your cursor on the little easy-to-miss "VASANT MENU" on the left hand side of the screen.

The do specifically mention Listers though.

7
Listeroid Engines / Re: 55lb Indian hammer for GIB key?
« on: February 14, 2011, 11:01:46 PM »
Liquid nitrogen on the key would be my suggestion.  Preferably not where the slide hammer is welded on though, or it will probably crack off.  Another more radical option would be drilling from the end of the crank until you can get a drift pin onto the end of the key, but no guarantee that would work and you might just bugger up the crank permanently without achieving anything.

On the bright side, if the key was driven in that hard it is putting an abnormal and possibly even dangerous load on the hub of the flywheel, which might make it prone to failure at some point if left that way.

Since you're the thorough type you might want media blast and magnaflux the hub(s) when you get this wheel off, just to make sure no cracks have been started in the area of the keyway by this over-stressing.

8
Everything else / Re: Oil Filtration: Fuel and Lubricating
« on: February 05, 2011, 08:52:15 PM »
Interesting points, thanks.  Yes, heating waste oils is more trouble & cost than it's worth perhaps, unless done with solar or waste wood as fuel I agree.

9
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Genuine Lister CD/CE Manual
« on: February 05, 2011, 08:43:58 PM »
I am desperately in need of big-end bearings if anyone knows of any...

Thanks,

Steve

No luck on getting that rebabbited Steve? 

Some good info on bearings here.  Might be worth saving a copy of the .pdf to disk - I'm going to!

Or try these guys: http://www.rebabbit.com/

These guys have a good reputation or used to: http://www.egge.com/BABBITTING

10
Petteroids / Re: Lister Petter AC1
« on: February 05, 2011, 08:39:26 PM »
From what I know a 5Kva head would work fine. 

Hopefully some of the more informed members will chip in on that.


11
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: How is your cold starting
« on: February 05, 2011, 09:24:49 AM »
I don't know if you can still get something like this anymore, but it looked like a good idea to me.  I have a couple of NOS ones.  One large and one small.

They run on fuel oil basically, with a typical old oil burner regulator, I believe.











12
Everything else / Oil Filtration: Fuel and Lubricating
« on: February 05, 2011, 09:12:00 AM »
Perhaps this has been discussed already somewhere here, but I just thought I'd mention two methods of filtration for both fuel oils and lubricating oils that are both highly effective, cheap and relatively non-dependent on outside suppliers.  These are:

1. Centrifugal oil filters or cleaners.  Been used for almost 100 years on ships etc. to clean both fuel and lubricating oils.  No method gets oil as clean.

2. Filters that use toilet paper or paper towel roll as the element.  Frantz and MotorGuard are two types.  These can be pressure or gravity fed filters.

No dirt in the oil means almost no wear in the engine.  

For some reason people seem to think low RPM engines don't need oil filters.  Not from the oil I've seen come out of old Listers!  Nor from their internal condition either.

Something to think about.

13
Petteroids / Re: Lister Petter AC1
« on: February 05, 2011, 09:03:27 AM »
You'll want a 4Kva head AFAIK.

Engine has a very good reputation, but water cooled is quieter of course.

14
Engines / Re: Need starter and filter ideas
« on: February 05, 2011, 09:00:38 AM »
If it hasn't been said already, get a toilet paper bypass filter such as the Frantz and add a small gear pump to circulate the oil through the filter.  1/16" inlet is standard to prevent over-pressurization of the filter.  No better or cheaper filtration out there.

15
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Rapp 24 semidiesel overrun: close call
« on: February 04, 2011, 08:01:00 PM »
Quote
This video illustrates what happends when these two stroke semidiesels run out due to too much oil in the crankcase. With my left hand, I block the injection pump, so from that time the engine run on lube oil only, no diesel at all. I have heard lots of stories about this from decades ago but this is the first time, to my knowledge, that it is captured on video. Luckily we had blocked most of the air intake prior to starting and ended at about 600 rpm. Max operating rpm is 425-450. With full air supply, I would guess this engine would reach thousands of rpm and I could only guess what would have happened then...

The electric glowplug short circuited so we had to rely on the propane burner which had slightly low temperature. In this startattempt, we used an autogen burner and got the glowplug bright red. The crankcase was, unfortunately, filled with too much oil so the engine was running on its lube oil from the crankcase instead of diesel. Still some trouble with the fuel injection, doesn't feel right when injecting diesel manually.

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