LOLOLOL...........gasp..............LOLOLOL

That thing is so cute,it's painful! I wonder if it would settle down a bit with a load applied? I also wonder if a "model" kit would be legal for import into the U.S.?

Don't use your generator until you've determined the problem!

I'm no expert on StartOMatics by a long shot, but you described smoke coming from a finned device in the control box. That almost has to be a selenium rectifier, an early device used to convert AC to DC and may very well supply exciter current for the generator field. The problem with them is when they get old, their performance gets worse and they break down..........finally smoking and possibly damaging other components "down stream". In your case, it sounds like it began to fail supplying current to the generator and the output suffered. I'm currently rebuilding a 1955 Kohler generator, and that selenium rectifier was the FIRST thing I replaced!

First of all, locate a good schematic for your unit. If you have trouble reading it, find an electrician or someone who works on old radios. They'll have the knowledge to explain everything to you and maybe help with the repairs.

You need to find out what voltage and amperage that selenium rectifier was designed for and replace it with a modern diode rectifier mounted in a heat sink. The diode should have a rating that is HIGHER than the expected load. Such diodes are pretty inexpensive these days and are a far better choice than the old selenium rectifiers.

From the Ford Model T service manual.........

To check the connecting rods for twist and straightness, machine two pieces of bar stock to a snug fit in both upper and lower bearings. Lay the entire assembly on the ways of an engine lathe. This will reveal any twist or misalignment.

To check for sideways twist, carefully measure the center to center distance of the bar stock, on each side of the connecting rod.

The above is paraphrased from an original manual, and it works. It provides a quick and accurate method of checking progress when straightening a bent rod.

Thanks guys. I was a bit mystified when my search brought up a bunch of blank or deleted postings. In any case, I'm sorry to hear he left the forum. He was a good member with a lot to contribute, but his reasons are his and his alone.......and I will respect that.

Thank you for the links mike90045. The "M" series engines built by IHC were all of very high quality, so an imbalance is kind of surprising....almost HAS to be a mismatch problem. The links you provided will definitely get me off to a good start!

That's the one. It sure couldn't hurt to submit either a scaled drawing or......better yet.......a complete block for an estimate. They'd have to make a wooden pattern and pour a casting, so the cost would be in that pattern and the amount of iron required.

Then there's the machining time on top of that, BUT you would have a genuine "made in USA" product. Enough calls for such a piece would bring the cost down.

Why not try some R-max instead? R-max is a stiff, foil covered foam available at most lumber yards and is used as insulation. It comes in 4' x 8' sheets, 1" and 2" thicknesses. Easily cut and either glued or fastened with clamps inside your muffler.

Thanks oldgoat, I suspected as much.